The great fall weather in Squamish continues to usher in big sends. Nathan Hall has sent The Method, his first V12. This stunning technical line climbs a tall, near vertical face just off the apron trail. It is widely considered one of the very best problems in Squamish.
Nathan on The Method. Photo by Jamie Finlayson©
Here is a nice little write up from Nathan describing his experience:
“I’d first seen The Method a couple years ago when I did its neighbouring problem “Ladies Man” a unique and spicy V7. Later I got psyched after seeing a few video ascents of The Method and was looking for a “hard for me” project to put time into this fall/winter. Given my perceived initial analysis of the problem I figured I had a pretty good shot to do it rather quickly. I like open grips, slopers and pinches and the slab opening didn’t appear too bad. The first session however humbled me greatly as climbing seems to do. I couldn’t move up the slab directly, being forced to navigate the large foot rail out right to even sample the crux bulge.
The second session I met a Dan, who was close to sending and offered great beta to unlock the opening slab. This is when the patient process to decipher the bulge crux began. The next three sessions I fell sampling various grip and body positions trying to make the most of the almost non existent left hand sidepull and right hand sloper. The latter was the real problem. I’d heard there was a “sweet spot” but I sure as hell never felt it.
On maybe the 5th session I had a minor breakthrough and just ignored the right hand feeling awful and began to fall on the tension foot moves necessary once you’ve grabbed the flat undercling. The following session, after several foot slips unwinding the crux, I tried to figure out the top, post crux to no avail. I felt I needed some luck to move through the crux, but if I did I wanted to know how to finish it.
Yesterday, November 24th a frigid Arctic wind was ripping through Squamish drying the soaked granite in a matter of hours. After a doubt filled warm up, I worked the finish from the ladder with a friend and discovered insecure beta, this was the first time I’d topped the problem. It was cold, I felt chilled and rigid but a slight bit of confidence creeped into my mind. It was the best conditions one could ask for so I committed to giving it a few solid tries as it would be my last day before heading South for a few months to drier climates.
I laced up my brand new Testarossa’s set up the problem and soon found myself feeling super solid on the final undercling, I weighted the left foot chip, cored in and made the foot swap all of the sudden staring at the big horizontal pinch I’d been dreaming about grabbing for weeks. I snatched it, stood up tall and moved my left hand to the top of the dyke feature thinking I had it in the bag… Nope. It was all too unexpected, and although I was pretty upset I didn’t just finish it I finally knew it was possible.
I set the ladder up and made a slight change to the exit beta and started up a few more times from the beginning admittedly anxious. The pressure put me in to the zone, and I made it through the crux twice more making silly mistakes near the top. I was gutted. My arms felt like bricks from over gripping the cold holds and I thought I’d be waiting until Spring to try again. At that moment a few climbers came in with pads and the landing grew from my 3, small and beat up pads to a gym-like landing zone. I decided to give it a couple final tries before packing it in but I only needed that one more. I sat atop The Method embracing the cold wind and tried to enjoy the fleeting moment as long as possible.
About 7 sessions of effort over a month or so. Only such a beautiful and inspiring problem could really hold my attention for so long. Amazing.”