Gear Review ‘Nomad Nutrition REV dry Meals’

Over the past six weeks, we had the opportunity to sample and taste the REV Dry meals of Nomad Nutrition.

Based in Vancouver, BC, Nomad Nutrition is reinventing alpine meals by using organic whole food ingredients while maximizing nutrition without sacrificing taste. With four different flavours and a growing inventory, Nomad Nutrition is sure to make it on your pack list, whether your are on the road or backpacking across the Tantalus range. After two of our testers sampled each meal multiple times, the bottom line is that these meals taste great and offer enough energy to enjoy the day hiking and climbing wherever you are.

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Posted in Recent News, Reviews

Interview with Josh Wharton | Canmore Climbing Festival

We are very excited to be a part of the 3rd Annual Canmore Climbing Festival that will take place this weekend on Saturday, August 12, 2017.

One of the speakers this year is American alpinist Josh Wharton. Usually flying under the radar, Josh is one of America’s top all around climbers with a specialty in Alpine climbing including first ascents of the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango Tower and The Flame in Pakistan, as well as a three time winner of the Ouray Ice Festival Mixed Climbing Competition (2009, 2010, 2011) and multiple first ascents in the Black Canyon. As a professional climber, Josh works hard at his craft and has a multi-discipline approach to climbing. We had a chance to chat with Josh before the festival and here is what he had to say.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

2017 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy ‘Interview with Jonathan Siegrist Part 2’

With the 2017 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy kicking off things today, we thought it would be a great idea to check in with one of our favourite Arc’teryx athletes, Jonathan Siegrist.

Over the past year, Jonathan has been making headlines with a few big sends and notably his accomplishment of Pachamama (5.15a). A regular at the festival as well as the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival, Jonathan is the quintessential professional athlete and always inspiring. Jonathan will be taking part in Squamish Exposed as well as teaching an advanced sport climbing clinic this weekend. The following interview is a follow up to our interview with Jonathan in February of this year.


Jonathan Siegrist in Squamish. Photo courtesy of Tom Wright ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

IFSC Update ‘Sean McColl makes Semi-finals in Chamonix Lead WC 2017’

We are pleased to announce that Sean McColl has made semi-finals in his first World Cup lead appearance in 2017. Sean completed both qualifications routes along with 22 other athletes moving to the semi-final round.

Here is a summary of the qualifications below.

Below are the results of the other Canadian athletes competing.

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Posted in Articles, Feature, Recent News

Scarpa Instinct VS and Scarpa Instinct Lace-up | Gear Review

It was not long ago that Scarpa had almost gone quiet on the North American climbing shoe front. It was the introduction of the Scarpa Instinct via international competition that pushed Scarpa back into the spotlight and helped Scarpa with, what now feels like, a domination of the North American shoe market. The Scarpa Instinct, from velco to lace-up, is a high performance downturned climbing shoe that can be used as an ‘everyday performance shoe’ for those seeking a great blend of power and sensitivity. Performing best on overhanging terrain, the Instinct VS also has the ability to handle slab and vertical climbing well, making it reliable in almost any situation Now with the introduction of the lace-up version, which provides stability and strength on vertical terrain, the Instinct line may simply be unstoppable.

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Posted in Articles, Reviews

Post-Dreamcatcher Interview with Mike Foley + Full Video of Send

Last week, American climber Mike Foley made the fifth ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d) at the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, BC.

First bolted by Sonnie Trotter and Chris Sharma in 2005 for the Petzl Rocktrip and then completed by Chris Sharma in the fall of 2005, Dreamcatcher (5.14d) has only seen five ascents over the 12 years despite being tried by many. The names of those who have repeated the route include Seam McColl, Ben Harnden, Alex Megos, and now, Mike Foley.

Mike Foley began climbing at the age of 11 in Massachusetts, looking up to the big names from the Northeast including Dave Graham, Joe Kinder, Luke Parady, and Vasya Vorotnikov. Making a name for himself in the Rumney area, Mike repeated a number of hard climbs including Jaw II (5.15a) and China Glide (5.14d). Mike also was the 2007 Junior National Champion in Bouldering and Junior National Champion in lead in 2008 and 2009. After graduating from Quest University and returning home to Boston, Mike now lives in Vancouver, making the Sea to Sky his playground once again. We had a chance to talk to Mike after his send of Dreamcatcher last week and here is what he had to say.


Mike Foley on Dreamcatcher (5.14d). Photo courtesy of Jamie Finlayson ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

VIMFF Series: Interview with American Alpinist Steve Swenson

On Wednesday, April 19, The Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will feature Steve Swenson, American aplinist, as he explores the nature of high altitude, alpine climbing, the complexities of remote expeditions, the geo political workings of Kasmir, as well as his passion for the cultural communities in this region of the world. The presentation will be followed by a Q & A where four experts will bring their unique perspectives to the Kashmir Conflict and how it effects climbers and trekkers.

With a number of ascents under his belt, including the second ascent of the North Face of Mount Alberta, in 1981, the first ascent of the Northeast Face of Kwangde Nup and Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat in 1989 and 2004 respectively, and oxygen-free ascents of K2 and Everest and Steve Swenson is no stranger to adventure. Now retired from Engineering but still climbing, Steve has taken the time to reflect back on his experiences in the Karokoram, as well as the changes that have taken place in the region over the past four decades. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Steve before his presentation on Wednesday and here is what he had to say.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

Access Alert ‘Chek Canyon and Cat Lake Logging Update’

Here is an update from our good friends at the Squamish Access Societ. Be sure to be become a member of this great organization if you use the Sea to Sky Corridor as the continue to secure access for all present and future climbers.

Do you climb at Chek Canyon and at Cat Lake? You should be aware of a number of industrial activities that are occurring on the Conroy FSR and Culiliton Creek FSR this spring. Areas above Chek Canyon recreation site on the Conroy FSR and along the Culliton FSR are being logged this spring and summer. Road building operations are to commence approximately April 7, 2017 on Conroy FSR and Road Building and harvesting is scheduled to start on the Culition FSR April 21st, 2017. Additionally, the Chek Canyon Recreation camp site is being significantly expanded this spring. All these events mean Chek Canyon is going to be a very busy place this spring and summer on weekdays.

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Posted in Articles, Recent News

2017 Canadian Open Bouldering Nationals Interview with Andrew Funk

This weekend, Edmonton, Alberta will play host to the 2017 Canadian Open Bouldering Championships. With all the strong competitors coming out of the woodworks to compete this year, we had a number of people who we could have interviewed before the competition. Sticking out above the rest was Edmonton-local and prairie crusher Andrew Funk. After graduating high school, Andrew took his stoke outside and travelled around Europe sport climbing in limestone paradise. After sending his first 5.14a (Mal de Isla), Andrew made his way home only to find himself back on the road. Now attending the University of British Columbia in his first year of Engineering, Andrew has found a home on the Hive Climbing team in Vancouver and has pushed himself this year under the tutelage of Jeff Thompson and Christian Core. We thought it would be awesome to check in with Andrew as he gets ready to fly home. Here is what he had to say.


Andrew Funk. Photo by Shane Murdoch ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

2017 VIMFF Interview with American Climber Brette Harrington

As part of the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival, Brette Harrington will be bringing down the curtain on Saturday, Feb. 18th, 2017.

Raised in the mountains of Lake Tahoe, Brette first found herself immersed in skiing as a child. After years of competitive ski racing, Brette first found climbing while attending a boarding school in New Hampshire designed for sports athletes. Years later, while attending the University of British Columbia, Brette had the opportunity to sample the granite splitters of the Sea to Sky where she began to push her own limits, sending a number off difficult routes, including The Shadow (5.13a) and The Edge of Pan (5.13b), while putting up a few first ascents of her own. With her skills in tow, Brette hit the media spotlight after soloing Chiaro Di Luna, 11a, 750m in Patagonia. Recently featured in this year’s Reel Rock tour, Brette continues to push the limits of her climbing through a number of big wall experiences. Fresh off a trip from Patagonia (literally yesterday), Brette still has the fire in her eyes as she settles into the West Coast winter with plans for a few mixed climbing adventures in the North Cascades. We had a chance to catch up with Brette before tomorrow nights show and here is what she had to say.


Brette Harrington. Photo courtesy of VIMFF ©

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Posted in Articles, Feature, Interviews

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