Petzl Grigri Plus (Grigri+) Belay Device | Gear Review

Picking up the Petzl Grigri + and holding it in our hands, we were immediately reminded of first being introduced to the Grigri 2 from the original Grigri. Resistance to the new device was high across the the climbing community and even now, you will find a few die hards holding on to their big bulky original Grigri.

The changes made between the first and second model were not drastic, but the device felt different enough than the previous model; it was too smaller; it didn’t offer much more control, and initially, people simply didn’t like it. Over time, our feelings for the new device changed as we grew accustom to its new characteristics, deeming them substantially better than the original model. Looking back now, we could not imagine belaying on a regular basis with the original Grigri.

The parallels between the intruduction of the Grigri 2 and the Grigri + are much the same. Over our eight week testing period of the Grigri +, we went from not liking the new device, to tolerating its subtleties and then finally, strongly preferring it over the previous model.

We will be the first to tell you that the device has it’s flaws. However, the changes in rope control alone make the Grigri + worth a try!

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Posted in Articles, Reviews

Metolius Upshot Belay Glasses | Gear Review

If you are looking for belay glasses that can stand up to the harshest crag conditions at a price that really can’t be beat, then the Metolius Upshot Belay Glasses are exactly what you are looking for. Featuring sunglasses-like frames with a sturdy construction and optic quality prisms that do a decent job, the Upshot Belay Glasses are designed to reduce the strain on your neck when belaying.

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Posted in Recent News, Reviews

A Comprehensive Review of the Scarpa Chimera | Gear Review Video

The Scarpa Chimera is a high performance climbing shoe that features a great heel cup, sensitive feel, and high quality production. We had a chance to review this shoe over a six month period and here is what we thought.

Editor’s note: This is the first gear review that we have released using our new video format. We hope that you found it informative and enjoyable. Please subscribe to our channel to stay up to date!

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Posted in Articles, Reviews

Gear Review: Scarpa Chimera Climbing Shoe

With the introduction of the Chimera, Scarpa completes their line-up of high performance climbing shoes. Built on the same PCB Tension System of its predecessors, the Scarpa Chimera features an asymmetrical lace-up system using the latest innovation in sensitive rubber technology. With a sensitive toe box and impressive heel cup, the Scarpa Chimera is a must have for any bouldering enthusiast who requires a specialized shoe in their arsenal.

We had the opportunity to test the Scarpa Chimera over a six month period and here is what we though.

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Posted in Articles, Recent News, Reviews

Spotcheck ‘Joe’s Valley Bouldering in Orangville, Utah’

Joe’s Valley is littered with striking black and gold boulders made of perfect sandstone. The style lends itself to gymnastic movement – often the holds are good, it’s just hard to get between them.

Nestled just outside the otherwise sleepy town of Orangeville (pop 1400) in Utah, the popularity of bouldering in Joe’s Valley brings abundant visitors and is simply growing. In the fall of 2015 the first annual Joe’s Valley Festival was put on. The long out-of-print guidebook is to be replaced with a brand new guide in the spring of 2018. Environmental and economic assessments are currently underway to minimize climber impacts, and big changes may be coming soon.


Graham McGrenere on Lactation Station (v10). Photo by Kim McGrenere ©

Joe’s Valley bouldering is concentrated in three main areas: Left Fork, Right Fork, and New Joe’s. Thinking you want to make the trip down and seeking some trip beta? Look no further!

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Posted in Articles, Mini Guides, Recent News

Mammut Crag Express Set Quickdraw | Gear Review

With it’s thick dogbone and easy to clip carabiners, The Crag Express Set Quickdraw not only will fit your budget but will make you a better climber in the process. We had the opportunity to field test the Crag Express Quickdraw over a six month testing period here is what we thought.

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Posted in Articles, Reviews

2018 VIMFF ‘Interview with the Director Dave O’Leske of ‘Dirt Bag: The Legend of Fred Beckey’

The 2018 Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival is just days away and we are very excited for all of the happenings going on both in Vancouver and North Vancouver.

One of the best climbing films of the festival this year is ‘Dirt Bag: The Legend of Fred Beckey’. It is exciting, it is fun, and it is thought provoking in ways you would not expect, bring into question the mortality of the climber. The film will be playing at Centennial Theatre, Tuesday, Feb 13, 7:30 and tickets are on sale now.

We had a chance to catch up with director Dave O’Leske to ask him a few questions about the making of the film. Here is what he had to say.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Gear Review ‘Evolv Agro Climbing Shoe’

Over the past two years, innovations in climbing shoe technology have been at an overall high and shoe companies across the globe have been tasked with keeping up if they want to stay on top of the market. The team at Evolv is no exception to this rule, with new models coming out at a rapid pace in order to keep current in the competing shoe market.

The Agro is Evolv’s answer to the ever changing market of high performance climbing shoes. The Evolv Agro’s downturned one strap design is built for steep overhanging climbing that demands power in your feet. It features 4.2 mm TRAX SAS high friction rubber, Evolv’s new TPS (Tension Power System) technology and a thick toe rubber upper for optimal toe hooking performance. The Agro is a much more streamlined design that previous Evolv models and is a good step forward in the Evolv high performance line.

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Posted in Feature, Recent News, Reviews

Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw | Gear Review

For those looking for a robust quickdraw that never wears out, the Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw is a no brainer. Thanks to the innovation over at Edelrid, the Ederid Bulletproof Quickdraw features a steel inset that sits inside the biner that makes contact with the rope while climbing, drastically reducing wear and increasing the life of your quickdraw. Placed within an aluminum biner, the steel inset of this draw packs a punch. Over our six week field test of these draws, they showed no signs of wear after being used in some very sandy conditions.

Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw
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Posted in Articles, Reviews

Interview with Calgary-based Climber Evan Hau; First Canadian to Climb 5.15

Two weeks ago, Calgary-based climber Evan Hau became the first Canadian to climb 5.15a after completing the first ascent of his route Honour and Glory (5.15a) at the Colliseum in Echo Canyon, Canmore, AB. Not only was this event a great step forward for Canadian climbing, it also highlighted the hard work and dedication of a low profile climber in the Bow Valley.

Evan Hau has long been a active member of the Bow Valley climbing community, with a focus on projecting hard routes, first at Acephale’s upper wall and then spreading to various walls across the Canadian Rockies. With multiple 5.14 ascents under his belt, including Bunda De Fora (5.14d), Kinder Surprise (5.14c), and Prime Time (5.14c), as well as La Esencia de la Resistencia (5.14c) and Seleccio Natural (5.14d) in Spain, Evan has dedicated himself to his craft with hard work and perseverance. Over the past few years, Evan has made changes to his work life to make room for his climbing lifestyle and maximizing his time outdoors. Although he would argue that he does not train specifically, he will often climb multiple days in a row and gain strength by dedicating himself to projects at his maximum ability. In a sentence, Evan tries hard, He tries often, and he enjoys it every time.

We had a chance to catch up with Evan last week and here is what he had to say.


Evan Hau on Honour and Glory (5.15a). Photo by Jeff Lewis ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

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