Joe’s Valley is littered with striking black and gold boulders made of perfect sandstone. The style lends itself to gymnastic movement – often the holds are good, it’s just hard to get between them.
Nestled just outside the otherwise sleepy town of Orangeville (pop 1400) in Utah, the popularity of bouldering in Joe’s Valley brings abundant visitors and is simply growing. In the fall of 2015 the first annual Joe’s Valley Festival was put on. The long out-of-print guidebook is to be replaced with a brand new guide in the spring of 2018. Environmental and economic assessments are currently underway to minimize climber impacts, and big changes may be coming soon.
Graham McGrenere on Lactation Station (v10). Photo by Kim McGrenere ©
Joe’s Valley bouldering is concentrated in three main areas: Left Fork, Right Fork, and New Joe’s. Thinking you want to make the trip down and seeking some trip beta? Look no further!
Where to stay?
The boulders of Joe’s Valley are all on BLM land. Currently, free dispersed-style camping is available in New Joe’s and in the Forks.
In the New Joe’s area there is a very large dirt-parking-lot-style pull-out on the left side of the road that can accommodate many vehicles/tents. Several smaller, treed pull-outs line the road as well. New Joe’s gets lots of sun (great if you depend on solar!) and cell service.
There are many camping pull-outs all the way up the Right Fork. The largest one, at the “Mansize” bouldering area, also offers two portable outhouses. There is less camping in the Left Fork, but in certain areas spots are available. Please respect the No Camping signs up this fork.
Nicole Gillette on Roll the Dice (v5). Photo by Kim McGrenere ©
Where to get problem info?
The most recent and comprehensive guidebook is An Insightful Guide to Joe’s Valley Bouldering by Isaac Caldiero. Unfortunately, the book is out of print, and currently running on Ebay/Amazon at around $200. Ask around to find a friend who might have a copy (or photos of a copy) – that’s what we did. Also note that while comprehensive, many of the grades in the Caldiero book are incorrect.
Mountain Project is actually a really great resource for Joe’s, with fairly extensive coverage of boulder problems.
Chris Schwartz on Boux Crack (v3). Photo courtesy of Kim McGrenere ©
What is the best season?
The weather in Joe’s Valley is best in the spring and fall, with temperature highs ranging from 10C to 25C. Fall is typically wetter than spring, but rains can come at any time of year. The weather is also variable enough that you may luck out climbing in Joe’s Valley year round.
What are the classic problems?
Graham McGenere on Beyond Life (v10). Photo by Kim McGrenere ©
There are so many classics in Joe’s. Some of the best are…
The Angler (V2)
Kill By Numbers (V5)
Wills of Fire (V6)
Planet of the Apes (V7)
Big Joe (V7)
Baldwin Bash (V7)
Worst Case Scenario (V9)
Playmate of the Year (V9)
Fingerhut (V10)
Ghost King (V11)
Where to shop?
The Food Ranch is the only place to shop in Orangeville. They have basic groceries, Utah beer (3.2% alcohol), some climbing gear, hot food, donuts, gas for your car, and wifi. Driving five minutes to the neighbouring town of Castledale will get you to a larger grocery store, Stewart’s, which has better deals and a much better selection of food. Stewart’s is closed on Sundays.
Where to get coffee?
Fortunately, in the fall of 2016, the Cup of Joes coffee shop opened. Just around the corner from the Food Ranch in Orangeville, Cup of Joes serves delicious drip coffee, espresso drinks, and specialty beverages. They have a great hangout with multiple charging outlets and free wifi as well.
Dan Beland on Skid Mark (v9). Photo by Kim McGrenere ©
Where to get water?
There is a spigot with potable water at the RV dump station between Orangeville and Castledale. From the Food Ranch drive towards Castledale on Highway 10 and keep your eyes open for a sign indicating a turn off to your left. If you ask nicely, you can also likely fill your water at the Food Ranch or from the spigot in front of Cup of Joes.
Where to use the bathroom?
The soils in Joe’s Valley are sandy and fragile. Please try to avoid doing your business while out climbing. There are two outhouses available at the Mansize area in Right Fork, and one in New Joe’s. These are paid for by the SLCA (consider making a donation here). There are also two toilets on the outside of the building at the Food Ranch, and new toilets opening in spring 2017 at the city park in Orangevile.
Where to shower?
The rec centre in Castledale sells showers/day passes for $4 a person. Thinking you’ll be in town for a while? You can buy a 10-punch pass for $25. The Food Ranch also sells showers (though we have never used these), and there are new coin operated showers opening in the city park in spring 2017.
Graham McGrenere on Simple Twist of Fate (v10). Photo by Kim McGrenere ©
Other things I should know?
The butterfinger donuts at the Food Ranch are amazing (and go on sale by the dozen at the end of the day). You can get a HUGE ice cream in a waffle cone for $1.50. There is lots of free wifi in town. Most businesses (besides the Food Ranch and Cup of Joes) are closed on Sundays. There is a small state liquor store in Castledale. Price, a town with many amenities, is only 40 minutes away.
Always wishing they were on the road. Graham and Kim McGrenere currently live in Vancouver, BC
