The Bow Valley has experienced one of the hottest and driest summers I have ever seen. As a result we have had a longer a season than we are typically used to, but we have also had a hotter summer than normal. The heat has chased many of the local climbers up to Acephale where you can always find cool temps. Acephale is home to many of the hardest sport climbs in the country but it doesn’t matter what grade you climb, if you go to Acephale, you are going to work hard.
Steve Townsend on Endless Summer (5.13d). Photo courtesy of Jamie Finlayson ©
Some of the best ascents of the season are Ojas (5.14a) and Endless Summer (5.13d) by Steve Townsend. These two routes went down fast for this tall, energetic climber from BC. Steve moved to Edmonton at the start of the season and started going to Acephale right away; if you ask Steve he will tell you it was the coldest conditions he has ever attempted to climb in but if you ask a local there is a good chance they will tell you it was perfect. Climbing at Acephale you are forced to deal with some of the coldest conditions you will see sport climbing pretty much anywhere in the world. Once the temperatures warmed up, Steve was able to sprint his way through these area classics.
Around the same time, Acephale was visited by a couple of strong female out-of-towners, Rina Personick, who managed to grab a send of Sweet Thing (5.13c) and Ellen Powick who cranked out Whale Back (5.13c). These two lines are very difficult and have only seen a few female ascents in the past, Props to Ellen and Rina! Ben Blakney and Adam Curry managed to get through the pumpy Fully Jingus (5.13d); this route puts up a fight against even the strongest climbers and these two managed to work it through the hottest days of the year. Nice work! Shortly after, we saw some long term fights come to a close with Francois Bergeron sending Whale Back and Krissy Blakney and Michelle Lee taking down Jingus Americanus (5.12d).
Keep a close eye on Acephale over the next month though, there are some big send coming down the line. Zak McGurk and Evan Hau are getting close to Acephale’s newest 5.14c; First Flight, Regan Kennedy is clipping the last bolt of Ojas (5.14a), which will be her first 5.14. Josh Bylsma, Ben Blakney, and Grzerorz Florek are all getting very close to sending the Acephale test piece Existence Mundane (5.14b). Bonar McCallum has some serious fight happening on Endless Summer and his wife Lea Juszkiewicz is grabbing the last holds on Altus (5.12c). Josh Muller is one hanging the outrageous project left behind by Joe Kinder, dubbed Kinder Surprise (5.14c) and of course Sheena Stares is one hanging Sweet Thing. Many exciting times to come.
Across the valley in Echo Canyon, climbers have been hard at work with notable sends like Grzerorz Florek sending Bone Thief (5.14a). Evan Hau doing some first ascents like Dime Piece (5.14b), Fit Bird Direct (5.14a), and Box of Souls (5.14a). Sonnie Trotter Managed to squeeze in the second ascent of Fit Bird Direct between organizing the first ever Canmore Climber Festival and being the dad of the year. Irene Tos managed to bag one of the hardest “5.13a+++” in the Bow Valley – Parental Retreat. Sheena Stares managed to fight her way through The Sales Pitch (5.12d) while Knut Rokne grabbed a send of The Hermit (5.13b) despite being the Bow Valley’s newest father.
Irene Tos on Destination Unknown (5.12d). Photo courtesy of Lloyd King ©
Sonnie Trotter on Fit Bird Direct. Photo courtesy of Jamie Finlayson ©
Other exciting news to come out of the Bow Valley is on the development front. Craig Doram and Pete Nelson have finally released a guide book for their mystical new crag called Unicorn Canyon (click on link for topo). This place has more open projects than any other crag in the Bow Valley, this could be your chance to grab your first FA. As always Echo Canyon has seen tons of work, the Coliseum has had plenty of new bolts and awesome FAs. Greg Tos and Bonar McCallum have put up a few new amazing bolted multi-pitches. Finally, Josh Muller and Evan Hau have started developing the Bow Valley’s newest cliff, Apocalypse Cave, with 6 sport climbs ready for the public ranging from 5.11c to 5.14a. Keep an eye out for more development and a topo in the coming months.
Great work to everyone for all your hard work!
