Here at Squamish Climbing Magazine, we care very much for the climbing community and those who experience injury or tragedy when doing the sport we love. With this in mind, we are always sensitive to the impact these events have on our community and can often be hesitant to report a climb accident before all the facts are presented, as to not create confusion.

Update

CTV news is now reporting that the climber who was leading the last pitch of the Squamish Buttress had his gear rip at the top of the climb causing his head to hit the wall and knock him unconscious. Luckily, the climber was wearing a helmet that reduced the blow. The climber was then lowered down to the base of the ledge for rescue.

Although unnamed in the article, the climber was from Vancouver Island was somewhat less experienced at leading. The climbers partner reported that he thinks his friend will be okay.

Original Post

On Wednesday, Sept. 6th, 2017, CBC first reported that a climber fell from the Stawamus Chief. The climber in question, later referred to as a male, was assisted by the volunteer Squamish Search and Rescue and flown to Vancouver via helicopter.

Continue reading »

Join Petzl athletes Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein as they cruise one of North America’s most classic climbs; “El Matador” (5.10d) on Devil’s Tower, in Wyoming. Watch the team work their way up the world class “stem box” and stand on top of a a tower that looks like it came right out of a fantasy.

Great film featuring Carlo Traversi trying to boulder v14, climb 5.14, and top out a 14,000 peak wall. Worth a watch!

The perspective of difficulty is forever changing. With new ascents, new feats of strengths and new discoveries constantly raising the bar, a climber’s perception of what’s possible is always shifting. But perhaps the greatest proponent behind the ever-evolving standards of what’s truly challenging lies within one simple act … that of giving it a darn good try. As BD Athlete Carlo Traversi writes, “the depth of your will can only be explored through experience.” Check out this amazing film documenting Traversi trying his ultimate challenge—to climb a V14, 5.14, and a 14er in one day.

We are pleased to announce that Scott Pringle has made an ascent of Grizzly Bear (5.14a) at the KLO in Kelowna, BC a week a bit ago. This was his first of the grade. Congratulations Scott! Unfortunately, no pictures of the send.

We are very psyched to announce that Victoria-based climber Yannick Neufeld has sent Northern Man (5.14a) at Horne Lake in desperate 34 degree conditions. This is Yannick’s fourth 5.14 for the year, after sending Dinosaur Highway and Jesus loves a link up earlier in the season. Congratulations Yannick!

We are very psyched to announce that Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of his route Project Hard (9c) in Flatanger, Norway.

Continue reading »

Absolutely stunning video that makes us homesick for Ceuse featuring Stephan Ghisolfi on Jungle Boogie (9a+).

We are pleased to announce that Miles Adamson and Zach Watson have completed a five year multi-pitch project in Canmore, AB.

The new route, named Don’t Rock the Boatswain (5.13a – 6 pitches – 11c, 13a, 12c, 12b, 12b, 12a), climbs a distinguished wall in the canyon to the left of the Lookout on Grotto Mountain. After a tip from Bonar McCallum, Miles and Zach explored the area to find a lot of potential and chose their plum line based on a top encounter with a big roof to finish off the wall. The big roof, in the end, is still a project, with the six-pitch route ending just before the route. According to Miles, he did try the roof but thought it ended with a v12 boulder problem which was not in the cards this year.

Congratulations guys! That is a lot of work. Squamish Climbing Magazine will have a topo once available!

Continue reading »

The Bugaboos and Rock Mountain Forest District have been closed to public access due to extreme fire in this area. The closure began Sept. 2nd, 2017. Hopefully a little rain in the area will ease restrictions soon.

For further information, please see the BC Fire Bans and Restrictions page for each area of BC.

Thanks to the hard work and dedicated scrubbing of Jack Fieldhouse, Pete Hill, and Dave Southam, Squamish is now home to Neverland, a sport crag located off the east end of the Olympic Legacy Park parking lot. The crag boasts a fantastic selection of grades from 5.9 to 12+ with varied (read: technical) styles.

Get Topo Here