Recent News 2014/12/11

Domen Škofic, a Slovenian climber, has repeated Chirs Sharma’s Papichulo 9a+. Source: 8a.nu

Papichulo has always held a particular allure, with some of the best climbers struggling with the route. The route has only been sent by Chris Sharma (fa), Adam Ondra, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Jakob Schubert, and Sachi Amma.

Mina Markovic onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. Source: 8a.nu

Los Humildes pa Casa has been previously onsighted by two female climbers including Evgeniya Malamid of Russia and Maja Vidmar of Slovenia.

Click below for clips of Chris Sharma and Joe Kinder on Papichulo 9a+

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Natasha at The Hive

The Hive is putting out these small clips featuring their route setting team. They are well done and worth a look.

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Daniel Woods on Lucid Dreaming

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Review of Redemption: The James Pearson Story

Hot Aches Production released their most recent film, Redemption: The James Pearson Story, on November 21st, 2014.

Redemption: The James Pearson Story tells the controversial story of one of the World’s best trad climbers, Englandʼs James Pearson. After a dramatic rise to become one of the top climbers in the UK, controversy surrounding the grading of his routes left him feeling ostracized from the climbing scene. The film tells James’ story and follows his return to the UK as he faces his demons and looks to redeem his place within the UK climbing community.

Here is what we thought at Squamish Climbing Magazine.

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Fundraiser Competition at The Hive

Joseph Wong and the VRCG are hosing a fundraising competition at The Hive on Dec. 19th, 2014

Christmas is coming soon and the Hive now has a complete set of new problems. While you are busy preparing Christmas gifts. We have an idea for you. Dec 19 Friday 6-9pm, Hive & VRCG will host a Christmas comp at the Hive. $5 entry goes completely to Escalando Fronteras who is building a youth centre with climbing and therapy to help 1000 youth in Mexico rise beyond life with drugs and gang wars. Watch the link video and learn more. Our volunteer Tiffany Hensley is there volunteering at the moment and her stories just blow minds away, inspiring us that the best gift on earth is indeed in giving itself. You can also donate directly to them here.

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New Climbing Gym in Squamish

squamish

Throughout the years, Squamish locals have always wrestled with what to do in the months of rain that persist over the winter. From the home wall to the unethical historical sculpting of outdoor spaces (see the back of the Cacodemon boulder for more details), the Squamish local will always find a way to keep going during the monsoon.

In recent years, Squamish has been home to the Grand Wall Bouldering Cooperative. This project was originally spearheaded by Tyson Braun and Jeremy Smith. Their vision was to open an indoor climbing space that is shared among its members. The Coop continues to flourish in Downtown Squamish and accommodates approximately 150 members per year. As I am sure anyone will tell you, this gym does not run itself! Through the hands of a few leaders in the community and dedicated volunteers, this indoor space keeps everyone cranking in the winter.

As the city of Squamish continues to grow, so does the vision from the year-round climbing community. Spearheaded by Lauren Watson and Adrian Blachut, a new commercial climbing gym is already in the works. Ground Up Climbing Centre is slated to open in September of 2015 and the community is already abuzz.

Opening a new gym is not an easy task. In fact, it takes a lot of tenacity from those who have a bigger vision and Squamish Climbing Magazine had a chance to catch up with Lauren Watson to get the scoop on what is in the works.

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Sasha Digiulian and Kraft

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La Sportiva Legends Only Backstage

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Tour de Bloc Wrap-up | The Hive

IMG_2063Tiffany Melius on Women’s #1

The Tour De Bloc finals took place last night and what an exciting finish to a great event. The night began with the Women’s final and the competition looked fierce. Shannon Russell, a dark horse from Seattle dominated the field, completing all four problems and taking the top of the podium. The Men’s final ended with some high energy and high drama. Men’s problem #1 was a heinous crimp problem that first looked like no one would do until Jason Holowach crushed it on his first attempt with no hesitation. The problem was then completed by Jesse Warren, an American student attending Quest University in Squamish, BC and then, despite making an error in the sequence, flashed by North Van local, Simon Parton.

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TDB: Swarm the Hive Update December 6th, 2014

Going into finals tonight are the following:

Men’s Final

Simon Parton
Jesse Warren
Jason Holowach
Gavin Johnson
Matt Keays
Jesse Taplin
Robert Stewart-Patterson
David Echeverri

Women’s Final

Shannon Russell
Maria Celkova
Tiffany Melius
Celeste Wall
Alannah Yip
Sidney Trinidad

Finals will open the doors at 630pm and I think will start at 7 pm. Going to be a great time!

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Partner with Us

Issue #1

Peter Winter / Leavenworth WA / Grand Wall Boulders / 25 V4 Circuit / Home Campus Board

Issue #2

Hope BC / Jeremy Smith / Scrub your Face / Godman Creek / Ring Workouts / Wiretap