Dawn Wall Update: Pitch 15 is Done!
Multiple Sources are reporting that Kevin Jorgenson has sent pitch 15! I think a lot of people counted Kevin out but this means that the ‘team ascent’ is back on. Fantastic news for the climbing community behind Tommy and Kevin. To top it all off, Kevin reported that he also stuck the dyno on Pitch 16 (but fell at the top of the pitch)!
Picture of Kevin’s hands after todays battle.
Here are some photos of Kevin sending from the El Cap Report.
Here is Kevin’s twitter feed with his comments.
Here is the latest from the New York Times (interactive). This actually worth checking out!
Stay tuned!
Organizing the SCBC Triple Header with Sebastian Powell
This weekend is the first climbing event of many taking place at The Boulders Climbing Gym, located in Central Saanich, BC on Vancouver Island. For those of you who have never been to The Boulders (myself included), the facility touts over 13,000 square feet of space and 18 meter lead walls, making it a premier venue for training and competition climbing. With three more competitions this year, as well as playing host to an IFSC Training Camp led by Adam Ondra and Sean McColl in February, this will surely not be the last time we hear from them this year. After speaking to Paul Ledet, the Head Judge for the event this weekend, Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it would good to check in with Event Organizer Sebastian Powell to get the details for this weekend.
The Fitz Traverse by Tommy Cadwell and Alex Honnold
This short film was just released by Patagonia. Worth a watch!
Getting Ready for Tour De Bloc Elevation Place with Stacey Weldon
Stacey Weldon has been on the climbing scene for as long as I can remember. From the gym to the crag, Stacey always seems to enjoy the experience. Not only has she been a leader in the climbing competition scene for a number of years, she also helped organized the Kingston Bouldering Co-op, which is still going strong today. As soon as the Tour De Bloc: Elevation Place was announced, I knew that we would have to check in with Stacey and see how things were going in her new home town. Here is what she had to say.
A little bit of skin care goes a long way.
Red Bull Playground: Margalef
This video features the Pou brothers. The narration of the film is in Spanish but worth a watch for a few shots of Denencia Senil 9a+
Recent News ‘Dreamtime’
Giuliano Cameroni, a Ticino local and young crusher, has sent Dreamtime (v15). Below is the video of the ascent.
Dawn Wall Day 10 + 11
Bitter sweet days on the Dawn Wall with multiple sources reporting that Tommy Cadwell has redpointed the final 5.14 pitch while Kevin Jorgenson still attempting pitch 15. The media storm on this thing is pretty wild. Here are a few in the latest round-up.
Video and article from ABC here.
The Dawn Wall also made the audio podcast ‘All things Considered’ by NPR found here.
Hilarious comments by New York Times readers haters here.
SCBC: Triple Header Interview with Paul Ledet
This weekend The Boulders climbing gym, located in Saanich, BC, will play host to The Triple Header. The Triple Header is a sanctioned Sport Climbing BC event that will host competitors in all three disciplines: Bouldering, Difficulty, and Speed. As with any competition, a lot of work goes into the event behind the scenes. Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it might be cool to shift the lens and get the perspective of someone on the inside of it. Paul Ledet is the Head Judge for the event this weekend. Paul has also been a high school teacher in the Saanich district for 22 years. Here is what he had to say.
Paul Ledet (right) at Vail World Cup with Johannes Altner (left).
