Nothing in Moderation with Marc Bourdon

By | March 16, 2015

Marc and Elise in Jailhouse Rock CA. (Marc Bourdon Collection ©)

Marc Bourdon has called British Columbia home for over 30 years and is no stranger to technical granite in the Sea to Sky Corridor. Marc recently made the third ascent of Sonnie Trotter’s Nothing in Moderation in Murrin Park. Originally graded 5.13c, the route features very technical slap to an ‘almost dyno’ to a very bad sloper. After a hold broke while Steve Townsend was working the route, the route has become substantially more difficult. Marc recently sent the route and we thought it best to check in with him and see what he had to say.

Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

Algorithm (v9) with Miles Adamson

By | March 14, 2015

Great clip of a recent first ascent by Miles Adamson. Miles moved to Vancouver two summers ago and has really made a positive impact on development in the forest.

According to the video description,

“This climb is found on the way to “Fantastic Mr. Fox – V7″ at Gonzales Creek. The parking is on the right immediately after passing the creek, driving northbound from Vancouver. Walk back towards Vancouver on the side of the highway. Walk up a bunch of rocks to the base of a cliff. At the cliff, turn right and cross the creek. The boulder is in the trees, in sight after entering the trees.

Start seated with a good holds and a large left foot. A couple compression moves lead to a complicated sequence getting on to the slab.”

Thanks for sending this to us Miles and keep them coming!

Posted in Videos

Alex Megos on ‘Lucid Dreaming’

By | March 13, 2015

Posted in Videos

Los Angeles Climbing with Damon Corso

By | March 13, 2015

Isamer Bilog climbing high above the Pacific Coastline on ‘Piledriver’ (5.12b) at Boney Bluff. Photo courtesy of Damon Corso ©

Years ago I didn’t know where to go for spring break so I joined my friend Pat Nosil on a research expedition in the Los Angeles Basin. At the time, Pat was studying stick bugs out of his van and knew all the best spots for climbing and picking bugs. As we drove across Los Angeles, it soon became apparent that deep in the hills outside of the city’s reach, there were a number of great climbing areas. These areas have remained lost for years, only known to those who have gone out of their way to find them. Without a guidebook, these areas have gone under the radar, until now.

Posted in Articles, Interviews

Honnold-Mania with the New York Times

By | March 12, 2015

Here is another expose on Alex Honnold with the New York Times. It seems in the past few months, climbing has gone more mainstream than ever and the general public cannot get over climbing without a rope.

“Fifteen miles outside Yosemite Valley, a beeping iPhone alarm awakened Alex Honnold at 4 a.m. in the white Ford Econoline van that he has called home for the last seven years. Honnold, who is 29 and one of the two or three best rock climbers on earth, sat up on his cheap foam mattress and switched on his headlamp in the darkness. The nearby Merced River made a soft rushing sound, and crickets hummed in the grass in the dry heat of June. Honnold rolled back his van’s sliding side door to greet his ponytailed friend David Allfrey, who was also 29, emerging just then from an old VW camper van parked 10 feet away”

For the full article, please click here.

Posted in Articles

SCBC Rock and Rope Registration Ends Sunday

By | March 12, 2015

The Rock Wall in Maple Ridge, Bc will be hosting a difficulty and speed competition sanctioned by Sport Climbing BC on March 28th, 2015. Registration for this event ends on Sunday, March 14, 2015. The format for the difficulty portion of the competition is flash for qualifiers and onsight for finals.

For more information, please go to sportclimbingbc.ca

Posted in Indoor, Recent News

Onsighting with Adam Ondra

By | March 11, 2015

Adam Ondra after onsighting the show route at IFSC Climbing Camp (5.14c). Photo courtesy of Tim Schaufele ©

The following is footage of Adam Ondra at the IFSC Climbing Camp held at The Boulders in Central Saanich, BC. Adam talks about both indoor and outdoor onsighting, doing your research from the ground and some of his ethics around onsighting. The footage here is pretty rough but seemed the best way to capture the moment without taking away from the experience of others. Definitely not a quick hit before work but if you but aside some time to listen, I am sure you will find something valuable in what Adam has to say. Hope you enjoy!

Posted in Articles, Interviews, Videos

Two Videos from Spain

By | March 10, 2015

Here are two videos from Spain. Both are well shot with beautiful frames of Spanish climbing. There is a lot of lifestyle shots in both but the climbing is worth a watch.

Posted in Videos

Development Update from Hope, BC

By | March 10, 2015

Hope, BC in all its glory. Photo credit unknown.

When Squamish Climbing Magazine first had the idea for the first issue, Marco Lefebvre was one of the first people to get in touch. Marco has long been a developer of the boulders in Hope, BC and it is him to thank for the feature on Hunter Creek in issue two. Last week, Marco got in touch again and we are pleased to have him back as a contributor for SCM.

Rumours have been circling of a new area in hope called ‘The Grid’. After speaking to Marco, ‘The Grid’ is a new section of the Hunter Creek chain. Marco reported that there is a lot more to develop in this area but gave us a sneak peak of a few lines on his radar. Despite being close to the city, the boulders in Hope never see as much traffic as Squamish. With regular updates from Marco, we are hoping all that changes.

Posted in Outdoor, Recent News