Quite a day to be a Canadian professional climber. Sean McColl has reported that he made a quick ascent of The Traphouse” (V14, 8B+), in Font, France.
Recent News ‘Sonnie Trotter Sends Estado Critico (9a)’
Pleased to announce that Sonnie Trotter has sent Estado Critico (9a) in Siurana, Spain. With one week left on his trip, he was able to take down the rig. Congratulations! Word on the street is he one hung it in the morning and then went back for the send this evening. Estado Critico is famous for being the first 9a onsight in the world, completed by Alex Megos. A lot of people were visiting Spain this winter and the pictures look fantastic!
Sonnie on Estado Critico (9a). Photo courtesy of Sonnie Trotter ©
Sonnie on the rig earlier today. Photo courtesy of James Lucas ©
SCBC: Richmond Spring Cling FINAL Results
The SCBC Richmond Spring Cling difficulty competition took place at the Richmond Oval over the weekend. Despite a number of competitors taking to the rocks at Skaha, the event still had quite the crowd. For those of you who have not been to the Richmond Oval, it is quite an experience. The event was organized by Eric Jackman and included Co-head Judges Anna Lee and Cath Fairlie, Head Route Setter Simon Parton, and Technical Delegate Terry Spurrell. Below are the results of the competition.
Competitors of all ages getting ready. Photo courtesy of Ken Chow ©
Local News ‘Vikki Weldon climbs 8b+ in Spain’
Pleased to announce that local climber Vikki Weldon recently sent Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) in Oliana, Spain. The project took 7 attempts and Vikki did report that she thought it may be very soft for 8b+. Either way what a fantastic send! Vikki previously climbed Eulogy (5.14a) in Maple Canyon, UT.
Here is an old video of Chris Sharma on the route.
The New Yorker ‘Selling Rock Climbing’
Interesting article by The New Yorker as climbing (and corporate advertising) take over the fitness world.
“Kevin Jorgeson spent the better part of a month swaddled in Gore-Tex in a tent suspended twelve hundred feet above the Yosemite Valley floor, eating dry salami sandwiches and bathing with baby wipes. It’s no wonder, then, that he didn’t own a suit until recently. But on a cold night in late January, two weeks after completing his historic nineteen-day ascent up the sheer rock face of Yosemite’s Dawn Wall, Jorgeson was ensconced in the cluttered back room of the Brooklyn Boulders climbing gym, discussing the finer points of men’s tailoring. “I’m thirty and I didn’t own a suit until last night,” he said, grinning. “I’m gonna rock that shit.” The suit in question—a blue Ralph Lauren number from Barneys—was a sign of how much Jorgeson’s life had changed since he and his partner, Tommy Caldwell, completed perhaps the most difficult climb in the world. It was a coming-of-age moment for the sport of climbing as well, and many in the outdoor industry are hoping that the pair’s feat proves to be the moment the sport breaks out of its crunchy bubble and into the broader consciousness.”
Read the rest of the article by Clare Malone here at The New Yorker website.
Recent News ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’
A little bit of a recent news update. Mike Doyle has completed To Bolt or not To Be (5.14a) at Smith Rock after finishing up The Big R (5.14a). Here is a interview Mike did on his training regime with trainingbeta.com. Be sure to check it out.
We have a few other local climbers out on trips.
SCBC: Spring Cling Difficulty and Speed Competition This Weekend
This weekend, the Richmond Oval will play host to ‘Spring Cling’, a difficulty and Speed competition sanctioned by Sport Climbing BC on April 4th, 2015. For competitors, check-in opens at 830am and for all those dedicated spectators, the finals for all categories will take place at 430pm. This is a great opportunity to check out the ocal and get out and cheer on your local athletes!
For more information, please visit sportclimbingbc.ca Squamish Climbing Magazine will have results on Sunday for this event.
Jeremy Blumel ‘Missing in Action: Climbing Gear Vanishes’
For those who missed Jeremy Blumel’s article in the Chief last week, we thought we would post it here. One of Jeremy’s previous articles got a lot of attention on Google News and also was published in the printed edition of the Squamish Chief. This column focuses on the los
This week’s column is a little departure from the big questions banging around within the topic of climbing, and instead focuses on my own climbing and the idea of community spirit gone awry.