2016 VIMFF Interview with Kevin Jorgeson

With the 2016 Vancouver International Film Festival just around the corner, Squamish Climbing Magazine has gone full tilt with an interview of the festival’s first guest speaker, Kevin Jorgeson. Originally gaining fame with the first ascent of Ambrosia in Bishop, CA, Kevin’s name became synonymous with difficult highball bouldering. After completing Ambrosia, Kevin was ready for his next big project when he was inspired by Tommy Caldwell’s clip of The Dawn Wall in the film Progression. After an email introduction , Tommy and Kevin set off on a seven year journey to complete The Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, CA.

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Kevin Jorgeson at home on El Cap. Photo courtesy of James Lucas ©

Kevin and Tommy’s ascent of The Dawn Wall was big for the climbing community but no one could have predicted how it would set fire to the media world earlier last year. With all the hype, big (and sometimes strange!) doors have opened for both Kevin and Tommy. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to sit down with Kevin and talk about the hype, what it all meant, and what is on the horizon. Here is what he had to say.

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Video: Something More Featuring Collette McInerney

Nice little flick about Squamish trad climbing.

Posted in Recent News, Videos

Video: Chris Sharma on ‘Catalan Witness The Fitness (8c)’

It has been too long since the last Chris Sharma clip.

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Video: Don Quixote in Potrero Chico, Mexico

Another from Stu Smith, this time outside of Squamish, BC.

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Climb Base5 Offers 2016 Bouldering Nationals Preparation Circuits

With the 2016 Canadian Bouldering Nationals taking place at The Hive North Shore on Feb. 27-28, 2016, a number of athletes from across Canada will be travelling to the Vancouver area. This close to a competition most athletes are not training as hard as they can, but rather, fine tuning their on-sighting, game-plan strategy and mental preparation.

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Photo courtesy of Ken Chow ©

Starting Tuesday, February 23rd, 2016, Climb Base5 will be stripping the Tsunami wall and setting competition style boulder problems including competition specific elements such as four point starts, bonuses, and tops. The problems will be split into two groups, Group A will be harder then Group B, and both sets will feature a diverse set of boulders.

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Video: Jonathan Siegrist on Power Inverter (5.15a)

Jonathan Siegrist flicks are the best. Love it.

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2016 VIMFF: Review of ‘Panaroma’ featuring Edu Marin

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With the 2016 Vancouver International Film Festival just around the corner, Squamish Climbing Magazine will be sharing a few reviews of our favourite climbing films that will be featured during the festival.

Directed by Jon Herranz, ‘Panaroma’ features Edu Marin and his 62 year old father, Francisco Marín “Novato”, as they attempt to free Alex Huber’s ‘Panaroma (8c) located in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo National Park in the Dolomites. It is here that this father and son team working together to fulfill the climbing dreams of two generations. Through well thought story-telling and beautiful cinematography, we find ourselves rooting for this father/son team as they push towards the summit of Panaroma, one of hardest multi-pitch climbs of the world. With the rise of Edu Marin over the past few years as one of Spain’s strongest climbers, this film is surely not to be missed.

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Video: Grampians climbing Enzo Oddo & Kevin Aglae

Nice video of Grampians featuring a number of very cool problems.

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Video: Climbing Culture with Thomasina and Cedar Pidgeon

Great little video out by Shaw Sea to Sky featuring Thomasina and Cedar Pidgeon.

Rock climbing is in Thomasina Pidgeon’s blood. As one of the top female Canadian boulderers, the Squamish resident has spent the last 15 years competing throughout the world. And as Shaw TV found out, there’s another special climber quickly following in her footsteps.

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Black Diamond Product Recall Notice

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Two major recall notices from Black Diamond Equipment today regarding carabiners and quickdraws as well as 2014/2015 Nylon Runners. If you or someone you know has bought this equipment, it is vital that you let them know to check the Black Diamond website a verify if their equipment has been recalled.

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