Amazing film by Vancouver local Read MacAdam about his search for boulders in the Sultanate of Oman. Please visit the website for this odyssey here.
Video: Lost in the Boulderfields
Nice little flick about climbing in the Boulderfields in Kelowna, BC.
Local News ‘Nathan Hall Sends The Egg (v11)’
We are pleased to announce that Nathan Hall sent The Egg (v11) today! Nathan has been trying The Egg on and off for the past four years and today was his lucky day! Congratulations!
Nathan Hall on The Egg (v11). Photo courtesy of Jamie Finlayson ©
2016 Canadian National Bouldering Championships This Weekend
Just a reminder that the 2016 Canadian National Bouldering Championships will take place this weekend at The Hive North Shore. With such a fantastic facility to showcase out climbing community, it would be foolish not to attend this event!
VIdeo: Five Pillars of Tasmania with Katha Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven
Nice little flick featuring Tasmania and its coastal towers. Look out for more footage of this beautiful area.
Video: That Route ‘Crime of the Century ‘
The Squamish classic, Crime of the Century (5.11c), located in the Smoke Bluffs captured in all its glory by Stu Smith.
Refugio (Part 1) by Matt Spohn
Squamish Climbing Magazine is very excited to have the opportunity to share the story Refugio written by Matt Spohn. Matt lives in Portland with his wife Michelle, and chihuahua, Zoozoo. He has been climbing for 22 years. This is his first contribution to Squamish Climbing Magazine (with many more to come!).
Mason groans, pale faced, teeth chattering—exaltation to the sleepless. The night gone, etched into memory; a sole headlamp flickering, the exfoliating flakes of Half Dome letting loose, the air tightening its hold on my bones. My body entwined in rope for warmth, I watch dawn’s cold grey spread out. I open my hands and stretch my fingers wide. Mason’s head rests against my shoulder and I wonder about his bushy beard, my bare face cold. He shakes and the shivers push me close to the precipice and I wiggle myself deeper into his body, thinking it better to be the little spoon.
You up, Mason asks.
Yeah.
Longest f**king night ever.
Uh huh. Ready to be done.
Me too.
Video: From Gym to Crag
Well done clip featuring the vision of Daniel Jung, a Black Diamond Global Athlete based in Siegen, Germany, as he fulfills a dream of building a climbing gym
Squamish Access Society: Logging on Stawamus FSR to Start March 1st, 2016
Here is a note from the Squamish Access Society regarding the logging of Block SW 144 on the Stawamus FSR in the saddle between Slhanny and the Chief. The Squamish Access Society (SAS) and the Climbers Access Society of BC (CASBC) put in a large amount of energy to reduce the logging in this area.
The Squamish Access Society has received word that Oceanview Forest Products is going to commence logging TSL A 92860 (aka Block SW 144) on the Stawamus FSR in the saddle between Slhanny and the Chief March 1, 2016. Falling and road building operations will be 7 days / week from starting March 1 – to approximately the 3rd week in March. Log Hauling is scheduled to begin March 15 and will occur Monday to Friday on the following roads:
Shannon FSR from 2.2km
Stawamus-Indian FSR from 1.6km and,
The Mamquam River FSR from 3.8km to the highway.
Oceanview Forest Products anticipates harvesting and hauling to be complete mid May (if not sooner), prior to the main climbing season. Climber cooperation will greatly assist this timeline.The Squamish Access Society asks the climbing public to avoid Slhanny back side areas and Longhouse areas during this short period of time for public safety and to minimize operation time. But if you are inclined to go, expect the following.
Video: Lifeline (5.13b) in Sedona, Arizona
Very cool trad flick featuring Lifeline (5.13b) in Sedona, Arizona.
Lifeline (5.13b) is a John Mattson masterpiece that splits an overhanging buttress of Coconino Sandstone in a cirque high above Submarine Rock near Sedona, Arizona. The crack runs through the sizes, from very tight hands to ring locks to tight fingers to tips and finishes with a baffling bolted sequence of levitation up a fin requiring flared fists, fly-aways and faith in sandy footholds and flared toe jams. I have never been so challenged by a rock climb in my life. Perhaps it’s because I have large hands and fingers, but this route seemed like .13c to me. Regardless of the rating, its remote position, requiring an arduous one and a half hour approach up a labyrinth of washes through the vortex that is the desert of Sedona, made for the most demanding project of my career.