We are pleased to announce that Jason Green has completed a new two-pitch climb on the Bulletheads, Stawamus Chief, Squamish, BC

The climb itself, Mystic Fingers (5.11d) is located 10 meters left of Bullethead East and climbs a series of thin cracks and micro corners. Described by Green as ‘Really fun technical climbing with most cruxes bolted but you’ll still need a rack up to #1 Camalot with a few extra small pieces and small wires’.

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Vancouver and Squamish news media are reporting a burned out vehicle found on the Cheekye Forest Service Rd.

Information of the incident in question first surfaced online on the Squamish Climbing Public Facebook Group with a post stating that a frequent contributor of the group, Jesse James, had died in a vehicle fire. As the community dealt with the news online, a number of testaments to Jesse’s character were posted along with some questions regarding the story.

According to Joseph Wong, a member of the Vancouver climbing community, Jesse James drove the same vehicle as described in police report and often slept the night in the Cat Lake area.

However, it should be noted that the RCMP have not identified the body at this time and the nature of the incident is unclear given official reports.

Below is the original media release.

The Integrated Homicide Investigation Team is looking into the death of a man whose body was found a week ago inside a burned-out vehicle on the Cheekye Forest Service Road, north of Squamish.

The man “remains unidentified,” Squamish RCMP Cpl. Sascha Banks said in an email. The vehicle has been identified as a 2000 red GMC Yukon XL.

The burned out vehicle is a 2000 GMC Yukon XL similar to this. SUBMITTED / RCMP
“Due to the difficulty of fire investigations and the suspicious nature of the incident IHIT was engaged from the onset,” Cpl. Banks added. The man’s death has been determined to be a homicide.

Anyone with information about the man or the vehicle or who saw any suspicious activity on the Cheekye FSR between June 13 and 14 are asked to contact police via the IHIT Information Line at 1-877-551-IHIT (4448), by email at ihitinfo@rcmp-grc.gc.ca or anonymously through Crime Stoppers by phone at 1-800-222-TIPS (8477).

Squamish Climbing Magazine will provide more details on this story as it unfolds.

We are very excited to announce that Gabriel Moch sent his project Something Wicked This Way Comes (V12) yesterday at Gibb’s Cave, Squamish, BC. Gabe successfully channeled his inner sport climber to rest his way up the 25+ move monster, topping out yesterday evening.

Gabe on Something Wicked This Way Comes. Photo courtesy of West Mountain Media©

Jon Cardwell going through the process of projecting on Papichulo.

Another successful year at the 2017 Rock The Blocs Bouldering Festival in Kelowna, BC thanks to the hard work of Andy White and other locals. Here is a breakdown from Andy on the weekend.

Over 250 people participated in the competition on Saturday and there were well over 100 people again on Sunday for a day of tours, clinics and lots of climbing. A total of between 350-400 participants over the 2 day event, and this was definitely the best year yet. Good weather, awesome climbs, and lots of fun. With no Eric Sethna or Alannah Yip to defend titles this year, and with Staci White guiding this year, it left the door open for a new men’s and women’s winner. Josh’s scorecard was the best ever at RTB.

Luke Warkotsch on Dangleberries (V6) during the comp. Photo by Casey Reynolds ©

Men’s Open

1st- Josh Muller (Nerf Roof (V12), Driven (V11)- flash, Detour (V10)- flash
2nd- Scott Eveleigh,
3rd- Andrew Funk

Women’s Open

1st- Tiffany Melius
2nd- Rebecca Bowman
3rd- Alison Stewart-Patterson

Permin Bertle on Ruta de Cobre (9a/5.14d in Chile.

At the beginning of this year, the Climbers Access Society of BC put their bolt program on hold in order to re-evaluate a number of issues regarding the program including liability, hardware specifications, and a new application program.

Last week, the CASBC Board of Directors reinstated the Crag Development Program (previously the CASBC Bolt Fund) along with a number of tweaks that rose from discussions between board members to best serve the greater climbing community across British Columbia.

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We are very very VERY excited to announce that Jared Nelson sent his long-term project Pulse (5.14a) yesterday in Chek Canyon, Squamish, BC. This was a route that Jared put more effort into than any other route, spanning across two years. We are very excited for him. Congratulations Jared! Word on the street is that he made it look pretty easy!

Jared on Pulse (5.14a). Photo by Eli Dunsbury ©

We are pleased to announce that Hans Monenegro has sent Vince Pinch Low in the Grandwall Boulders, Squamish, BC. After sending the regular version on Monday, Hans went back for the low yesterday. Hans is on fire these days!

Mummut is always making an effort to record the history of climbing. Great video featuring Midnight Lighting (v8) featuring Ron Kauk.