Mike Foley sending Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC.
Video ‘Nicole Deuchar on Digital Dexterity (5.12c) in the Smoke Bluffs, Squamish, BC’
First climbed by Yola Sanford in the 90’s, Digital Dexterity (5.12) may be a bit of a sandbag! Nicole Deuchar making it happen!
Post-Dreamcatcher Interview with Mike Foley + Full Video of Send
Last week, American climber Mike Foley made the fifth ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d) at the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, BC.
First bolted by Sonnie Trotter and Chris Sharma in 2005 for the Petzl Rocktrip and then completed by Chris Sharma in the fall of 2005, Dreamcatcher (5.14d) has only seen five ascents over the 12 years despite being tried by many. The names of those who have repeated the route include Seam McColl, Ben Harnden, Alex Megos, and now, Mike Foley.
Mike Foley began climbing at the age of 11 in Massachusetts, looking up to the big names from the Northeast including Dave Graham, Joe Kinder, Luke Parady, and Vasya Vorotnikov. Making a name for himself in the Rumney area, Mike repeated a number of hard climbs including Jaw II (5.15a) and China Glide (5.14d). Mike also was the 2007 Junior National Champion in Bouldering and Junior National Champion in lead in 2008 and 2009. After graduating from Quest University and returning home to Boston, Mike now lives in Vancouver, making the Sea to Sky his playground once again. We had a chance to talk to Mike after his send of Dreamcatcher last week and here is what he had to say.
Mike Foley on Dreamcatcher (5.14d). Photo courtesy of Jamie Finlayson ©
Video ‘Highlights from 2017 IFSC Bouldering Mumbai FINAL’
Highlights from 2017 IFSC Bouldering Mumbai FINAL.
2017 IFSC World Cup Bouldering Navi Mumbai SEMI-FINAL + FINAL Live Feed
We are pleased to announce that Canadian athlete Alannah Yip has made the semi-final round at the 2017 IFSC World Cup Bouldering event in Navi Mumbai, India.
Below are the live feeds for semi-finals and finals.
Semi-finals starting on Saturday @ 830pm.
Finals starting on Sunday @ 445am
Development News ‘New Route ‘Lunar Tide (5.11d, 250 m, 10 pitches) on Zodiac Wall’
We are pleased to announce that Jason Ammerlaan and Colin Moorhead have established a new route, Lunar Tide (5.11d, 250 m, 10 pitches), on the Zodiac Wall in Squamish, BC.
Lunar Tide (5.11d, 250 m, 10 pitches)
Approach: As for Gone Surfing. Follow Astro Ledge across and past Parallel Passages. Two bolt belay can be found under the obvious splitters of Gone Surfing. If you’ve reached the Calling, then you have gone too far.
Access Alert: Climbing Closure to Protect Falcons (June 23, 2017)
BC Parks staff and climber volunteer attempts have been attempting to locate the falcon nest in the Squamish Buttress/ Apron/ South Gully area this week. Their work along with additional climber reports (Thanks guys!) indicate that falcons have nested in the Lower South gully area at around the height of Memorial Crack and terminus of Rock-On. Juvenile falcons have been observed adjacent to Calculus Crack. Effective immediately, BC parks is amending the falcon closure area to the Lower South Gully from its border formed by Calculus Crack with following routes affected:
• Calculus Crack and its new Neighbor
• Memorial Crack and Ledge
• Bad Pants Party
• Rock-on Area (Rock on, Bastille, Hard-on, The Great Arch)
• The Opal Wall (Mercy Street, The Opal)
• Mushy Peas
The previous closure for the Squamish Buttress / Butt Lite ,the Echelon wall (Ultimate Everything, Upper Echelon), and Prow and Kashmir Walls is now lifted. .
BC Parks and volunteer climbers are to continue falcon monitoring and potentially lift this this closure in the next couple weeks as the fledglings appear to be close to leaving the nest.
Local News ‘Senja Palonen sends ‘Moment of Silence (5.13c)’ at Horne Lake, BC’
We are pleased to announce that Vancouver-based climber and longtime Squamish veteran, Senja Pelonen, has sent Moment of Silence (5.13c) at Horne Lake, BC.
Known for her early ascent of Zombie Roof (5.12d) and numerous photos across a variety of climbing media, Senja has been enjoying the freedom of the road for the past few months. It was that freedom lead her to spend some considerable amount of time over on the island, and specifically Horne Lake where yesterday she sent her first 5.13c! Congratulations Senja!
Local News ‘Mike Foley Sends Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC’
We are very psyched to announce that American climber, Quest Grad and resident of Vancouver, Mike Foley has made an ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d). After being ever so close for a couple years, Mike put that thing to rest yesterday. Truly admirable tenacity to go back to a project that has beat you down and put it to bed!
Congrats Mike!
Video ‘The Classics featuring C’etait Demain (first 8a) in Fontainebleau’
The cradle of bouldering for over 130 years, in Fontainebleau the first 8A already boasts a 33-year history. However, even today, with the advent of a ninth Bleau grade, Jacky Godoffe’s C’était demain remains a tough nut to crack.