We are very psyched to announce that Tom Wright has sent one of his lifetime dream routes, Endless Summer (5.13d) at Acephale in Canmore, AB. TOm had worked on the route this summer, sending with great style yesterday. This is his second route of the grade despite putting up the mega-classic Spirit of the West (5.14a) last year.
We don’t have a photo of Tom on the route so we just picked one off his gram.
We are very excited about the Treeline Women’s Climbing Festival Coming to Squamish September 9th & 10th, 2017.
We are very pleased to announce that Stu Smith has found a very unique route in one of the coolest spots in Squamish.
The new route, Pool of Death, climbs a steep overhanging face that hangs above the water. Looks awesome stu!
We ar very psyched to announce that Calgary-based climber Evan Hau has sent his mega project at The Colliseum in Canmore, AB.
The route is over 46 meters and goes through the deepest part of the wall. The grade has only been confirmed by one Facebook post at the current moment. Evan has been working the route over the past two summers. More information to come!!!! Congratulations Evan!!
The ascent very likely marks the first time a Canadian has climbed 5.15.
We will check in with Evan and update with more info.
We are pleased to announce that Hans Montenegro has made the first known ascent of North Wolf Mini (v10), a new link up in Gibb’s Cave.
The link starts in North Ridge Mini and moves back through the cross over of Black Hole into Queva de Lobo. Below is a video of Hans completing the line.
We are very excited to be a part of the 3rd Annual Canmore Climbing Festival that will take place this weekend on Saturday, August 12, 2017.
Colette McInerney will be speaking Saturday night at the 3rd Annual Canmore Climbing Festival. Colette has been in the climbing industry for over a decade, traveling and living the climber’s lifestyle. Early exposure to capturing her experiences through camera have led her to pursue the art of storytelling through a number of different mediums. Most recently, she been a part of creating an all women’s production team under Never Not Collective, with an emphasis on storytelling from the the perspective of women in climbing. We had a chance to catch up with Colette before the show and here is what she had to say.
Colette climbing on an 8a in Niemisel, Sweden. Photo by Mikko Makela ©
We are very excited to be a part of the 3rd Annual Canmore Climbing Festival that will take place this weekend on Saturday, August 12, 2017.
One of the speakers this year is American alpinist Josh Wharton. Usually flying under the radar, Josh is one of America’s top all around climbers with a specialty in Alpine climbing including first ascents of the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango Tower and The Flame in Pakistan, as well as a three time winner of the Ouray Ice Festival Mixed Climbing Competition (2009, 2010, 2011) and multiple first ascents in the Black Canyon. As a professional climber, Josh works hard at his craft and has a multi-discipline approach to climbing. We had a chance to chat with Josh before the festival and here is what he had to say.
Obviously, cracks are in high season right now but flash forward six months, I am sure people will be thinking about crack training.
We are very psyched to announce that Victoria-based boulderer Reagan Daly has made the second ascent of Tim Doyle’s A Block (v12) on the right side of the Squaminator boulder in the North Walls.
Suggesting potentially v12, this problem is very power oriented and has garnished a lot of attention in recent weeks. Reagan Daly is having a fantastic summer, also sending Vince Pinch (v12) early last month.
Video below.
We are very excited to announce that Hazel Findlay has made the first ascent of the coveted stemming corner to the left of North Star (5.13b) accessed via Third Peak of the Stawamus Chief.
Photo courtesy of Jonny Baker
The route, now named ‘Tainted Love aka Norther Soul (5.13+) requires some very very desperate stemming. Congratulations Hazel!!
Update: Speaking to Hazel and Neil Dyer, the proposed grade is 5.13d R. Sounds spicy! To fill in a little history on the route, Squamish-local Neil Dyer originally top roped the route in 2015 but couldn’t find the headspace to lead the rig. According to Neil, leading the route is a real challenge with all the small gear and requires the climber to run it out to save energy and stick to the sequence. He reported that Hazel made a proper fight in the conditions it was sent and showed true tenacity in her head game. Neil reported it was one of the most difficult belays he had given and his legs were shaking at the end of it all.
Peter Winter / Leavenworth WA / Grand Wall Boulders / 25 V4 Circuit / Home Campus Board
Hope BC / Jeremy Smith / Scrub your Face / Godman Creek / Ring Workouts / Wiretap