This past weekend, over 115 climbers descended on the Boulders Climbing Gym in Central Saanich to participate in the last local bouldering and first local speed and difficulty competitions of the Sport Climbing BC (SCBC) calendar. Affectionately called the “triple-header” the event was conceived as a way to get athletes to try a climbing discipline they may not otherwise compete in. The event, running from January 10-11, used an on-site format for the competitive/ranked categories for difficulty/lead and bouldering, and the world record format for speed. Results were taken from qualifying rounds, making it easier to fit the three different disciplines in to one weekend.
Spectators looking down at the action. Photo courtesy of Ken Chow ©.
Winners in bouldering were not surprising, and included: Alannah Yip (open female), Jesse Taplin (open male), Martin Roos (masters male), Marc Platt (experienced male), Rachael Vey (experienced female), Julia Brockley (recreational female), Tristen Gosselin (junior male) ,Hannah Block (junior female), Ivan Luo (youth a male), Julia Massullo (youth a female), Aiden Doyle (youth b male), Sophie Buitendyk (youth b female), Guy McNamee (youth c male), Sonya Colliander (youth c female), Connor Jones (youth d male), and Emi Takashiba (youth d female).
Speed climbing was next up, and the event saw Alison Stewart-Patterson, who is the assistant manager of the Boulders, break her own Canadian Women`s Speed Record, last set in February 2014 at 12.28 seconds. The new record of 11.54 may well be broken again this season, as Stewart-Patterson`s personal best in practice is sub-11 seconds. To the disappoint of some, the fastest male climbers in the province sat this event out, instead helping to organize, coach and belay (including former world record holder Libor Hroza, current Canadian champion Kevin Schaftlein, and Canadian Men`s Record Holder Robert Stewart-Patterson). Certainly, a number of the young athletes were encouraged to have the support of such experience athletes.
Alison Stewart-Patterson during her record setting speed climb of 11.541 seconds (Photo: Christian J. Stewart Photography)
Winners of speed include: Alison Stewart-Patterson (open female), Tristen Gosselin (open male), Ryan O’Neill (experienced male), Tristen Gosselin (junior male), Evelyna Trottier (junior female), Jacob Dorion (youth a male), Elena Moss (youth a female), Aiden Doyle (youth b male), Teyha Rogers (youth b female), Brennan Doyle (youth c male), Stephanie Chow (youth c female), Connor Jones (youth d male), and Lauren Larbalestier (youth d female).
The difficulty competition (where competitors are on lead or top-rope depending on their category) was a clear sign that it is still early in the season, as a number of competitors struggled with some rope management and clipping skills. Delaney Miller, the two-time US National Champion, easily topped both her routes, to get the win. Miller lives in the US, but trains with the Boulders Climbing Gym coaching staff. In the open male category, Ryder Hoy narrowly eked out a victory, tying with Ben Hughes on the first qualifier, and Matthew Wellington the second. Hughes and Wellington would end up tied for second place. Other winners in difficulty include: Laurence Philippsen (masters male), Tanner Davis (experienced male), Celina Lai (experienced female), Tristen Gosselin (junior male), Hannah Block (junior female), Ben Hughes (youth a male), Julia Massullo (youth a female), Aiden Doyle (youth b male), Sophie Buitendyk (youth b female), Brennan Doyle (youth c male), Stephanie Chow (youth c female), Finn Fraser Grathwol (youth d male), and Emi Takashiba (youth d female).
Ivan Luo making it look easy. Photo by Ken Chow ©.
Maria Celkova going big with a knee drop. Photo by Ken Chow ©.
Ryder Hoy would go on to win the gold in the Open Male category topping his first climb in the process (Photo: Christian J. Stewart Photography)
The event also recognized overall winners in each category, using the IFSC World Championship formula (as opposed to the world cup method). Athletes had to be entered in each discipline in order to be in the running, and their relative placement in each discipline (amongst those in their category who were competing for the overall title) were added up, with the lowest number indicating the winner. Because this was a trial-run, there weren’t prizes nor medals. Organizers have indicated they plan to use the same formula next year, but with appropriate recognition.
Overall winners, by category, were: Tristen Gosselin (open male), Delaney Miller (open female), Ryan O’Neill (experienced male), Tristen Gosselin (junior male), Evelyna Trottier (junior female), Ben Hughes (youth a male), Julia Massullo (youth a female), Aiden Doyle (youth b male), Jamie Besteman (youth b female), Brennan Doyle (youth c male), Stephanie Chow (youth c female), Connor Jones (youth d male), and Lauren Larbalestier (youth d female). The Boulders management believed the event was successful enough to commit to hosting it again next season. Staff and volunteers believed it served as a good tune-up ahead of the next events being hosted there, including the February IFSC World Climbing Camp, provincial championships in difficulty and speed in April, and national championships in difficulty and speed, along with a stop on the IFSC Speed World Cup tour, in May.
Texan Delaney Miller easily topped both her routes last Sunday to win gold (Photo: Christian J. Stewart Photography)
Kimanda Jarzebiak is the Chair of the Boulders Climbing Gym Society. Special thanks to Christian J. Stewart and Ken Chow for their photos.
