Finishing in first place at the 2018 Canadian Bouldering Nationals, Allison Vest is no stranger to competition. Introduced to climbing at nine years of age, Allison Vest has gone on to place first in numerous competitions across Canada, including the Hive Climbing stop of the 2019 Tour De Bloc. Now training under the guidance of Christian Core and Jeff Thomson, Allison is coming into her own, with strength and power to match any competitor. She has set the stage for a strong performance this weekend at the 2019 Canadian Open Bouldering Nationals hosted by Bolder Climbing Community in Calgary, AB.
Allison Vest @ Tour De Bloc. Photo courtesy of Ken Chow ©
We had a chance to check in with Allison before she boarded her flight to Calgary and here is what she had to say.
Hi Allison. Thanks for chatting with us!
My pleasure, thanks for having me!
So you are getting ready to defend your title! How do you feel going to the 2019 Canadian Open Boulder Nationals title?
Yeah I guess I am! It definitely feels like a bit more pressure this year because last year’s event went so well but honestly I prefer to take each competition as it comes, try to be the most prepared that I possibly can be, and then see what happens. I’m approaching Bouldering Nationals next weekend with that mindset.
You looked really strong at the Tour De Bloc last week. Can you tell us a bit about the day and how you prepared yourself?
Tour De Blocs are always a fun way to take a lot of the pressure out of competing. They aren’t sanctioned so it allows both the setters and the athletes the ability to take more risks and have fun with things. I was just coming off of spending two weeks with the Open National Team at a training camp so the psych was high and I just felt ready to compete again. Competing on home turf is always great too, the crowd support really helps.
2018 Vail qualifiers. Photo by Eddie Fowke ©
Can you tell when things are going just right?
One thing I struggle with when I am competing is being in a positive mindset. More times than not I find myself assuming that I am behind or doing really poorly in a round. In the past, it has caused me to get really frustrated, anxious, and nervous in the middle of rounds. It’s definitely something I have worked really hard to overcome and it is still a work in progress. Because boulders are so variable in difficulty, it’s really hard to tell where you stand during a round. Lately I have been trying not to think about it too much and focus on the climbing.
How do you warm up for an event like that and I guess conserve energy, especially when qualifiers are on the same day?
Warm up for finals is definitely a lot shorter after a full scramble round. I spend less time on the wall warming up before finals (partially to conserve skin). I usually try to chill out at home or at the hotel or wherever I am staying between rounds. I am not the best at napping but I recharge best when I am by myself so I usually try to isolate myself between qualifiers and finals.
Photo by Ken Chow ©
I want to talk a little about your training. How do you train? Who trains with you? and how do you set training goals for the year?
One big change for me in the past few years is having full time coaches. I’ve been working with Christian Core and Jeff Thomson at the Hive Climbing Gym and have been really enjoying it so far. Most of my physical strength training this season has been with Pieter Van Der Linde of Endorphin Junkies and I have seen huge improvements from working with him. As far as the climbing training goes, I have found it super liberating to work with Jeff and Christian. I don’t have to worry about planning out my training program or exercises, I just have to follow the plan that they give me. It allows me to be single-mindedly focuses on being a disciplined athlete. I have total faith and trust in what they are doing and I think we make a great team.
There is a very healthy competition going on with you and Alannah Yip with either of you placing first or second in multiple competitions. Can you tell is a bit about the rivalry, if there is a rivalry?
I mean, competition is competition. Obviously both of us want to win every time we compete against each other, it’s part of what makes us elite athletes. That said though, I think we both understand that we are teammates and friends too and the more we push each other, the better climbers we both become. She is a massive inspiration to me and her success on the World Cup circuit has been a big motivator for me as well. So I don’t think I would call it a rivalry, but good healthy competition. She is as unrelenting in her training as ever and I am super excited to see where she takes it next.
2017 Northwest Boulder Fest. Photo by Truc Allen Media ©
Do you talk to each other during the day of the comp or is it total game day?
We totally talk to each other! We get along well both in and out of competition. We are both super busy in our everyday lives and our training schedules are pretty different so most of the time I only see her on competition days. Therefore, it is also our time to catch up on each others’ lives.
This is our first interview with you so I want to get into a bit of history. You grew up in Canmore?
A perhaps little known fact is that I am originally from St. Paul, Minnesota and I am a dual citizen! My family moved to Canmore when I was about 8 years old. I used to climb on the outside of the playground so much when I was younger than my parents would have to send me to Kindergarten with my hands taped. I think they were just looking for an outlet for all my energy when the enrolled me in climbing program. I joined the youth team at The Vision in Canmore when I was about 9 or 10 years old. I stopped climbing for a year when I was 14 because I decided I wanted to be a dancer… but I clearly found my way back.
What is it like growing up in such a mountain town?
Canmore has a surplus of climbing history, knowledge and inspiration. I feel lucky to have grown up surrounded by towering mountains and climbing legends. Culturally, Canmore can be pretty limited so I am actually loving living in the city at the moment and experiencing a bit more diversity but I couldn’t think of a better place to grow up. I definitely miss breathing that crisp mountain air.
Allison Vest with her BC Team. Photo by Ken Chow ©
How did you get involved with competition climbing?
I am naturally a very competitive person. I might regret telling the world this but, if I get challenged to do anything (within reason) I will likely be on board. While this means I am easily manipulatable, it has served me well as a competitive athlete. It is also one reason the drive to keep competing has stayed around for so long.
This is a trait often found in high end athletes. Where do you think that passion for competition comes from?
I guess I’m not really sure where it comes from. I tend to put a lot of pressure on myself internally and so I guess that just radiates externally in the form of competitiveness?
You are now in Vancouver. What made you come to the West Coast?
I am a student at UBC. I moved here to pursue a degree in Kinesiology and it was just a happy coincidence that I was able to connect with The Hive, Jeff, and Christian and make it a success for my athletic career as well. I did my first year of school at U of A in Edmonton and felt kind of lost. On a bit of a whim, my solution was to change up the scenery. Most days I am so thankful that I did. The weeks where it is freezing and pouring rain, not so much.
On the mic with bestie, Andrew Funk. Photo by Shane Murdoch ©
When you first got here you were a bit on your own training or did you start with the hive team right away?
I was training on my own the first year I got here. I had minimal direction and was mostly just going into the gym and climbing without intention or planning. Luckily, The Hive picked me up and put me on track. I am very grateful for that.
There are two different climbing teams that dominate the Vancouver scene, The Hive and then Climb Base 5. Do you think that divides the climbing teams a bit or is that not a thing?
Obviously there is a bit of a divide because, as you said, the two gyms are the main competitive teams in the Vancouver area. That said, there is no bad blood or anything. Everyone gets along really well and respects the other teams’ approach to training. As far as I can tell, everyone loves being a part of the Vancouver climbing community and supports one another. Also, the coaches from all of the gyms are eager to support and learn from one another.
Both teams have different approaches. What do you like about the Hive team?
They do have different approaches. I can’t really comment much on Base 5 because I have never been involved with that team but I have worked with Andrew Wilson quite a bit now and can confidently say that his knowledge base is immense and that he is definitely a competition climbing guru. That said, I feel the same way about Christian. I trust his coaching and programming 100%. The expertise he brings to the table about climbing training is so valuable because he has experienced and been successful in it himself. The Hive itself really is a community. Every time I am in the gym, I am greeted by at least a dozen smiles and have had the pleasure of meeting many amazing people that I am lucky to call friends now.
2018 OBN. Photo by Philip Quade ©
Do you still spend time in the Rockies during the summer and what are you plans after Nationals?
Last summer was my first summer not going back to Canmore. I decided to stay in Vancouver and be absorbed in training for the World Cups. My plans as of right now are to do exactly the same thing this year and see where it takes me. It is important to have long term goals but sometimes thinking too far into the future stresses me out so I try to think about the near future instead. Right now my sights are set on Nationals and I will be focused on being prepared for that.
Finally, we just heard you became a Black Diamond athlete! How does it feel to be a part of BD?
I am humbled, honoured, and inspired to be a part of the Black Diamond team. BD is full of creative, and hard-working people who have already been incredibly welcoming to me both as an athlete and as a human. I am super stoked to work with them more in the upcoming year.
That is awesome Allison! Congratulations and good luck this weekend and can’t wait to see what is in store. The 2019 Canadian Open Bouldering Nationals will take place this weekend, March 2-3, 2019 and is hosted by Bolder Climbing Community. Be sure to check their facebook feed or back here for the livestream of the event this weekend!
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Allison is sponsored by Black Diamond, The Hive Climbing Gym and Endorphin Junkies.
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