Earlier this month, Logan Barber completed the first free ascent of China’s hardest crack climb, The Firewall (5.13d), located in Liming, China. The climb took Logan 22 attempts over two trips to complete.
Originally from Australia, Logan began climbing when he was 14 years old. Over the past few years, he has been travelling the globe, climbing and working remotely. Rumour has it that his next stop is Squamish so we thought it best to check in with Logan to talk about China and his upcoming trip.
Logan Barber on the 30 degree overhanging Firewall in Liming China. Photo by Garrett Bradley ©
Thanks for taking the time to talk with us. Rumour has it that you are making a return the Squamish after a few years away?
No worries, After all my travelling there are only two places in the world I could see myself actually settling down. One is the Blue Mountains in Australia and the other is Squamish. Absolutely loved my time there in 2005 and 2006. I have three months between China trips so I thought it’s about time I returned.
You have been spending a fair amount of time in China climbing at “Liming”. What’s the area like and how much route development has occurred?
Liming is an amazing red sandstone location in the Yunnan province of China. The rock is soft and doesn’t lend itself to being featured on the faces so most of the time you are just in a crack. Many of the routes are true lines, which I find more inspiring than the average jam-packed sport crag. An American named Michael Dobie has done the majority of development and written the guidebook. Currently, there have been almost 200 routes developed with potential for many more.
Liming, China. Photo courtesy of Logan Barber ©
You recently completed the FA of what is dubbed China’s hardest traditional line; Firewall 5.13d/14a Whats is the line like and how was the process.
The Firewall is the third and final pitch of a route called The Flying Buttress. It is an incredible pure line. The first half isn’t very hard and only very slightly overhung. The crack starts slightly off-width and changes through fists to hands and a little sequence boulder before a half way jug. Then the wall kicks back to almost 30 degrees and the second half changes slowly through tight hands to ring-locks and then rattly fingers. The last five meters is the crux and climbs as a bit of a boulder that you have to execute while pumped.
I ended up taking 22 attempts, which was 8 more than Air China the previous hardest route here at 5.13d R developed by Matt Segal. I thought The Firewall was a fair bit harder than Air China but I am still leaning towards 5.13d.
Did you have to train specifically for the painful rings locks required?
During my first trip in February, I had 10 shots on The Firewall in which I destroyed my skin and my body in general working out how to ring-lock through the crux. I got to the stage were I needed time off to heal the holes in my hands. I was headed back to Australia anyway so I spent a month just bouldering in the gym getting my power up and healing skin. When I got back I was stronger and more comfortable on the ring-locks and the route became a question of fitness.
Painfull ring longs. Photo courtesy of Logan Barber ©
Your climbing style is very gymnastic with amazing lock off strength. Is this something you work on?
I think it’s just my body type. I am short (156cm) and stocky as well as having grown up doing gymnastics for 7 years at a high level. I often find myself doing some crazy move because I can’t do a simple reach off an obvious foothold. I don’t really work specifically on much other than to just be climbing all the time. I also jump around different styles of climbing a lot, which may affect my technique a bit.
Over the past few years you have traveled the world ticking off long terms goals and projects, which are the highlights?
I’ve been very fortunate to be able to travel a lot and climb amazing routes although I have definitely sacrificed other aspects of my life to do so. I feel like the past few years I have been performing well and climbing routes I never thought I would be able to do. Highlights include Punks in the Gym the world’s first 32/5.14a, doing my first 32/5.14a first ascent in the Blue Mountains (Shogun), the first hard half of The Fish on the Marmolada (run out scary trad limestone slab), and helping a friend of mine Robbie Phillips achieve his goal of climbing Bellavista (I didn’t free the crux pitch). I’ve also had a lot of fun climbing a large number of sport routes in the 5.13 range all around the world as well as scrambling up classic peaks like the Matterhorn in Europe and even getting close to the top of Mt Fitzroy in Patagonia.
Logan on Air China. Photo by Alexa Flower ©
What allows you to stay on the road?
Staying on the road is easy and difficult. Financially, I have been lucky to have some very well paid jobs as an exploration geologist in the desert in Australia. I never worked for too long and took plenty of holidays and trips during my work. I also don’t party or have a huge social life outside climbing so I saved almost all of what I earned to put towards climbing. Travelling to climb can actually be quite cheap compared to the general cost of living in the cities in Australia. I am lucky to have the security of crashing back to my parents house in Perth if everything went bad. This means sacrifice from other things like settling down, home comforts, relationships etc. I have travelled for so long it seems harder to actually make the change to stay in one spot. I hope I can do that sometime though as I don’t want to be a vagrant all my life.
When living in China, do you immerse yourself in the culture, learning the language etc?
For all my trips I respect the culture of the place I am in. I have seen so many peoples, places, and ways of living that I like to keep an open mind about everything. I am an observer and nothing gripes me more than someone pushing their culture or ideology on others, especially when they are in a foreign country. I am a shocker at languages but I try to learn wherever I am. I see some people picking them up so fast but that’s not to be for me. I am working on Chinese and have a few words here and there in many languages. Generally just hello, goodbye, thanks, and numbers 🙂
Hills of Liming, China. Photo courtesy of Logan Barber ©
Is there anything when living in the Liming region that sticks out as a major change from other cultures you have experienced?
Everywhere seems to have their cultural traits including Liming’s Lisu people but the main thing I notice is how similar people are all around the world. The importance of family, friendship, the way they joke, how generally open and friendly people are. At our cores we are all very similar.
Any secret plans that you want to reveal about your trip to Squamish?
Well there is a certain crack I’d like to tickle the holds on. I am most definitely aiming a little high with my plans and I may have one shot and move on but you never know until you try. At least Ill know what to train for future trips.
Thanks for your time Logan and we will see you in Squamish soon.
Thanks, I can’t wait!
Eric Hughes is a local Squamish rock guide. If he is not climbing, he is putting up routes and looking after his kids. This was his first contribution for SCM.
