As the IFSC Bouldering World Cup makes it’s way to Toronto, many of our Canadian competitors are travelling across the country to compete in this international event. With 16 Canadians in each category (male and female), this opportunity will be the first IFSC competition for some and a chance to show their stuff on the international stage.
As we cheer from the sidelines, Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it would be interesting to feature a few climbers from across the country that are competing this weekend. We sent out the same set of questions to three female competitors and here is what they had to say.
Catherine Brunel-Guitton
Catherine Brunel-Guitton is a mother of two and a physician specializing in genetics at the Centre Hospitalier Universitaire Sainte-Justine. She has been climbing for over 10 years with a strong focus on travelling and climbing outdoors. Prior to becoming a mother, Catherine was a consistent competitor in the Tour De Bloc and almost competed in her first IFSC world cup in 2008 in Vail, CO.
Catherine and Sasha. Photo courtesy of Catherine Brunel ©
So..heading to Toronto for the IFSC Bouldering World Cup. What are you looking forward to the most about competing this weekend?
Having fun, climbing with friends, and amazing climbers and competing on Julien’s B121 wall! I find it very special that Julien has design the wall and I will climb on it.
Skeleton wall by B121. Photo courtesy of Catherine Brunel ©
What has been your plan in terms of preparation for competing in Toronto?
I have two kids and a busy full time job, but I love climbing as much as ever. It has been part of who I am now for many years and I just love doing. I love every aspects of it pushing my limits, fitness, climbing projects, road trips solo or with family, and to be part of a great community.
I did many Tour de Bloc competitions, a few Bouldering Nationals and qualify for a world cup IFSC event until 2008. Then, although I still wanted to climb lots, I didn’t feel like I wanted to compete anymore. I wanted to be with my kids on weekends and not be in climbing competition. About one year ago, I decided I wanted to step up my route climbing goals outside. I am going to Spain this summer and want to do a route in particular that I had fallen in love with on a previous trip. I have a busy life with not a lot of climbing time and recovery time, so if I wanted to step up my route climbing I thought I needed to climb intelligently and efficiently and needed a coach. So I contacted my great friend and coach Carlos Cabrera and ask him if he could train me remotely (he lives in Sweden) to achieve this goal.
I have been training with him for the past year. I have definitely improved my route climbing ability and in November last year, after a nice route climbing trip, I felt like I wanted to compete again, maybe just for one year because I felt I was back to where I was before bouldering and my kids are older. I thought that maybe it would be the year that I would try to qualify for a world cup again, but keeping my main focus on route climbing in Spain this summer. So I told Carlos about my dreams and goals, also about the fact that I have a busy life with not a lot of recovery time and he design for me a training program that would focus on route climbing but still maintain good strength prior to Toronto World Cup. So I went to all the process of local, provincial, and national comps not being on a specific training for bouldering competitions. I am very very happy that I could qualify for Toronto and also psyched for this summer climbing in Spain.
Catherine in Rodellar. Photo Courtesy of Catherine Brunel ©
Is this your first time competing in an IFSC Bouldering competition?
I was supposed to go to the IFSC Vail World Cup back in 2008 but got pregnant with my daughter so had to cancel. Since, it was always on my bucket list of things/dreams that I wanted to do, at least once in my life, I am really happy I did and excited to go to this one in Toronto.
How does competing in from of a Canadian crowd change the experience?
I will have friends who will come watch and friends and family who will watch the streaming so it is quite exciting and special. It is also great that there will be such amazing climbers competing at this event and I hope I can watch them climb too.
Catherine and the Allez-Up Team. Photo courtesy of Catherine Brunel ©
How do you train for the type of problems typical in an IFSC competition?
It is my first so I am not sure of the style of the problems and not sure I am prepared for the style. Although Tonde and Fred are setting too at this comp and I have climb numerous times on their problems, they are so creative and good and part of a great team of route setters, I feel the worldcup style will be different and it will be kind of a surprise to me. Regarding training, unfortunately, I am injured with pain and weakness in both arms, since a few months so I have been doing a lot of physio, core and antagonist muscles most days. I have climb less in the last months to take care of it and it is getting better. The past few weeks, i am back at it and on the days I climb (3 days per week) I have been training by doing mainly deadhangs, very short hard problem sets, and comp intervals two days per week, and once a week I do long boulder sets and short route reps.
Does outdoor bouldering contribute to your preparation at this time of year?
I don’t know if it prepares physically but it keeps me motivated. The outdoor season is short so if I have the chance to go climbing outdoor I will go for sure.
How do you cover costs for a competition like this when travelling across the country?
I will drive there from Montreal with Veronique and Ashley who are competing as well and staying with good friends Paul and Nicole, so no cost really.
Any expectations for the competition?
With all the amazing strong competitors there, my only expectation is to have fun and live a great experience.
Thanks Catherine! Good Luck this weekend and we wish you the best!
Catherine in Bishop, Ca. Photo courtesy of Catherine Brunel ©
