Since its first launch in 2005, the Patagonia Houdini Jacket has gained a solid reputation as a defining lightweight wind shell. It is known to be tried, tested and true by a variety of people on the west coast who swear by it as their ‘go to’ piece for anything from trail running to hiking to multi-pitch climbing. As the jacket has gained popularity, the designers at Patagonia have continued to refine this product resulting in substantial changes for the 2016 model including reduced fabric weight and a more ergonomic design when stuffed into its chest-pocket pouch.
2016 Patagonia Houdini Jacket
A wind shell is a ‘go-to’ piece for anyone who lives and breathes on the west coast and especially in Squamish! There really isn’t a more versatile piece to use in a windy place, where temps and humidity can range so significantly throughout the entire year. Lighter and more packable than both soft-shells or hard-shells, there is often little excuse not to have one with you if there is even 1% chance the weather or temps could lead to some drama. The defining feature of the Patagonia Houdini Jacket is that it is very light and very small, making it usable for almost any trip to the outdoors.
Versatility
The 2016 Houdini shaves some weight down from the 2015 model resulting in a 102g package that can be stuffed into its own chest pocket. Comparing this model to previous versions, the chest pocket of the Houdini has been redesigned from a rectangular shape to a more trapezoid shape that sits flatter with less bulk on your climbing harness for any multi-pitch expedition. Once stuffed inside it’s own chest pocket, a well-placed micro-loop allows you to clip the Houdini to your harness with a carabiner, where it becomes undetectable on long multi-pitch climbs. This feature is especially valuable for anyone who does not like to carry a lot of bulk on those extra-long days.
Fit
Consistent refinement and attention to detail seems to make the most recent version of the Houdini stand out. The 2016 Houdini is a form fitting design, perfect for those who don’t like a lot of bulk in their jackets but with just enough space to move freely.
The chest pocket zip orientation is vertical, and with a slightly offset pocket shape, makes for easy access without any pocket contents yearning to tumble out and into the void. The asymmetrical shape of the pocket performs well to minimize any undue bouncing of the contents on long descents or during trail runs. This bouncing, usually due to the unsupportive nature of ultra-light fabrics, is one of my biggest pet peeves in lightweight shells, and during testing I was very pleased with how well positioned this singular pocket was when loaded a headlamp, energy gels, and an iPhone, with minimal bounce.
The 2016 Houdini maintains its lean design through the size and shape of the hood. I was pleasantly surprised that the Houdini’s hood was big enough to accommodate most modern climbing and cycling helmets, yet not so spacious that it was too bulky while going helmetless. The hood is adjusted with a single piece of cord which loops around the rear occipital lobe of the hood, which when tightened, maximizes peripheral vision. One thing that I don’t like about the hood adjustment is that it requires two hands to tighten and adjust properly. While the waist pull-cord adjusts easily to batten down the hatches in rough weather, having a single hand hood adjustment for a shell designed to work on the move would be an excellent improvement for climbing applications.
While the sleeve design is excellently trimmed down to minimize weight, climbers may find the half-elastic cuffs and narrow forearms of the Houdini feeling on the tight side. Overall, I would say that the Houdini fits small. At 5’9 and 160lbs, I am most often in a men’s small but in the Houdini, the medium was ideal. I could easily layer up to a mid-weight fleece underneath, but still feel comfortable with the Houdini over only a t-shirt. For those who are a little bigger in the lats, forearms, or shoulders, I would suggest considering a larger size than what you may be used to wearing.
Performance
The Houdini is a proprietary DWR coated rip-stop nylon, which is one of the best fabrics for high output activities. Breathability is kept in check without sacrificing wind protection in the process. During field testing, I was stoked with the Houdini through a wide range of temperatures when both climbing and running. Ramping up on a warmer fall day to try and build up a sweat inside the jacket took a lot of work, and when I did start to feel damp inside, a quick reverse of the jacket inside to out was all I needed to dry off and keep moving.
In terms of durability, it’s important to understand the limitations of the fabric considering the Houdini’s intended use of trail running and hiking to and from the crag. If multiple seasons of use against wide granite cracks is your intent, best stick with the rugby shirt, and keep the Houdini reserved for your hike down from the backside crags in early spring or late Fall. The jacket can take some wear and tear but is not the greatest for days filled with punishing abrasion.
Overall
Overall, the 2016 Patagonia Houdini Jacket is a must have for anyone who loves to climb in all conditions. With its lightweight design and built in stuff-sack/pocket, this jacket will accommodate weight and space saving needs during endless vertical terrain days in variable weather. Finding a balance between wind protection and breathability, this jacket is suitable for any ascent or descent to and from the crag or trail running excursion when the west coast weather kicks up. The 2016 Houdini fits a little snug and I recommend up-sizing for anyone who has large forearms, shoulders, or lats. Nonetheless, this jacket is something that you want in your arsenal if being on the right side of the weather is your thing. If you are looking for a wind shell that gives you no excuse not to pack when the weather forecast is in doubt, the Houdini should be on the top of your list and I really can’t believe it took me so long to get my hands on one!
• Featherweight 100% nylon ripstop with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish
• Zippered chest pocket converts to stuffsack with a reinforced carabiner clip-in loop
• Hood adjusts in one pull, won’t block peripheral vision
• Durable half-elastic cuffs; drawcord hem
• Reflective logo on left chest and center-back at neck
• Can be worn over baselayers and light midlayers
• 1.2-oz 15-denier 100% nylon ripstop with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish
• 102 g (3.6 oz) compared to 2015, 113 g (4 oz)
• Made in Vietnam.
The 2016 Patagonia Houdini Jacket can be purchased at Valhalla Pure in Squamish ($109.95), at MEC ($109.95) and Patagonia Vancouver.
