We are very psyched to announce that Cory Rogans and Niall Hamill have establish a new route ‘Gravity’s Rainbow (5.12a R – 285m) on Peyto Tower, Mt. Wilson, Alberta.
According to Nail Hamill, Gravity’s Rainbow (5.12a R – 285m):
connects slab, face and discontinuous crack systems, following mostly new ground and 2.5 pitches of Prairie Gold. It begins up a new 3 pitch (link first two) slab variation to prairie gold, avoiding the loose crack system, following a line of bolts interspersed with natural pro (recommended over the original start)
It then climbs p3 of prairie gold, the 11c face/roof pitch. From the ledge above this pitch, move the belay left to a single bolt below an obvious right facing corner.
Where PG originally split off left into the next crack system, Gravity’s Rainbow continues straight up through a bulge on high quality stone, and a short bouldery crux (V5/12a) where the corner is sealed shut, with one bolt and a fixed pin.
The climbing relents above here for the remainder of this pitch and one more pitch, continuing up a loose, wandering and adventurous 5.10c pitch, where rope management is essential. The next pitch (p6) is shared with Prairie Gold, with an R-rated slab (black totem, kb) to reach the steep baggy hand splitter that on this ascent was oozing with muddy water. The pitch after this broke out into new ground to the left, a short roof encounter followed by a long unprotected section of easy, delicate climbing on a huge two story gong flake, and higher up some good opportunity for gear above the flake before face moves up and left on flake edges to a broad ledge/alcove. Belay at this alcovue below a final overhung 11b corner, thuggy, and wide. All anchors up to the base of p8 are fixed (bolted stances up to top of p6), walking off the route is recommended, as rappelling the upper wall is tricky and has provided numerous challenges.
