As climbers across the Sea to Sky corridor prepare for the 2016 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy this coming weekend, we thought it would be best to check in with Vikki Weldon as she travels back to Squamish after attending the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy in Chamonix, France. As a Squamish-local and ambassador for Arc’teryx, Vikki knows a thing or two about climbing. With a strong foundation in sport climbing, Vikki has recently turned her attention to the world of traditional climbing and is soon to become one of Canada’s most well-rounded climbers. Here is what she had to say about her experience in Chamonix and getting ready for the festival weekend here in Squamish, BC.
Vikki Weldon in Gastlosen, Switzerland. Photo courtesy of Hugo Vincent ©
Hi Vikki, thanks for taking the time to chat with us! You are in Europe after spending time at the Chamonix Arc’teryx Alpine Academy. What was the experience like in Chamonix?
This was my first year going to the Alpine Academy in Chamonix and the experience was wonderful. I met some incredible European athletes (and my personal heroes) such as Ines Papert and Nina Caprez. It felt surreal and really special to be part of such a wonderful community of athletes. Chamonix itself is a huge adventure destination, and it was impressive to witness the amount of terrain that is so easily accessible just above town. The event itself was really fun and diverse, despite some less than ideal weather.
Mont Blanc Massif. Photo courtesy of Vikki Weldon ©
How does the festival there compare to the climbing festival here in your own backyard of Squamish, BC?
Both festivals are similar in that they really focus on and celebrate the spirit of climbing and adventure. The festival in Chamonix has more of a focus on climbing in the alpine and winter climbing while the Squamish festival really is more centred on rock. In the end though, both festivals are fantastic venues for like-minded participants, athletes and guides to gather, learn, teach and explore this incredible sport that we are all so passionate about.
Bouldering group with Vikki Weldon and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk. Photo courtesy of Vikki Weldon ©
What does it mean to you as an ambassador to be included in these festivals and meeting climbers from all walks of life?
It is really an honour to be invited to events like that Alpine Academy. I feel like the small little kid in a room full of accomplished and decorated giants in the sport of climbing. I had to contain my excitement when athletes that I’ve only seen in magazines walked through the door. Arc’teryx has an incredible team of athletes, and to have a huge number of alpinists, rock climbers, ice climbers and skiers all gather together for an event like this is very unique and motivating.
You will be coming home to join the festivities here?
I wouldn’t miss it! In fact, I am in transit as we speak, enjoying one last delicious European cappuccino before the long trip home.
I have to ask about your time after the festival with Jonathan Siegrist and climbing in Switzerland. The photos looked amazing!
I had an absolutely incredible trip following the Academy in Chamonix. I had made no plans other than extending my trip for two weeks afterwards in hopes that something rad would happen. Lucky for me, a big number of Arc’teryx athletes stayed after the event with the same idea. Before meeting up with Jonathan in Switzerland, I traveled with Paul McSorley, Jesse Huey, Ines Papert and Paolo Marazzi to climb incredible granite cracks at two beautiful crags in Italy; Cadarese and Yosesigo. We also took advantage of some high pressure weather to take the Sky Run gondola up from Courmayeur, Italy to the Torino Hut on the Mont Blanc massif and climb some splitter granite up on the glacier.
Paul McSorely on Bonne Ethique (7a) on the Trident du Tacul. Photo courtesy of Vikki Weldon ©
VIkki Weldon on Bonne Ethique (7a) on the Trident du Tacul. Photo courtesy of Paul McSorely ©
After that whirlwind granite tour, I met up with Jonathan who has been crushing the hard limestone climbing near Interlaken, Switzerland for the last few months. We visited some incredible crags including the powerful climbing at Gimmelwald and the stunning long routes at Gastlosen. It was impressive and inspiring to watch all the athletes I climbed with excel at their chosen specialties. Jonathan especially is so dedicated to his craft, and it was really cool to watch him easily romp up 8b+ (5.14a) second try. I was even able to belay him on one of his projects, “Gimmel Express” (8c+/5.14c), which he climbed with ease on the first day that the entire route was actually dry. It made me really motivated to try hard on some projects at home.
Vikki Weldon and Jonathan Siegrist. Photo courtesy of Hugo Vincent ©
Vikki Weldon in Gastlosen, Switzerland. Photo courtesy of Hugo Vincent ©
Before leaving you were really getting your trad climbing on. Can you tell us a bit about the change and how do you think it has rounded out your skills as a climber?
Living in Squamish, it’s hard not to trad climb. For the past few years I have been slowly gaining more experience, and I feel like this year I have been especially motivated to push myself more as a trad climber. Climbing is such a unique sport that allows for so many different disciplines. It has been really cool switching from a relatively high level of sport climbing to being a beginner again in a new genre of climbing. I feel like the skills I am learning trad climbing in Squamish will allow me to become a really well rounded athlete. I would love to be able to take all of my skills and strengths and apply them to more adventurous objectives in the mountains and on big walls.
Vikki on an 8a in Gimmelwald, Switzerland. Photo courtesy of Jonathan Siegrist ©.
Thanks Vikki. We are really looking forward to the festival!
The Arc’teryx Climbing Academy will take place this weekend from July 14th to 17th, 2016 and will include four days of international speakers, educational seminars and clinics on topics related to climbing. Open air evenings of films & music. Free to the public atop the Sea to Sky Gondola.
