Video ‘Mike Foley sending Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC’

Mike Foley sending Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC.

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Video ‘Nicole Deuchar on Digital Dexterity (5.12c) in the Smoke Bluffs, Squamish, BC’

First climbed by Yola Sanford in the 90’s, Digital Dexterity (5.12) may be a bit of a sandbag! Nicole Deuchar making it happen!

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Video ‘Highlights from 2017 IFSC Bouldering Mumbai FINAL’

Highlights from 2017 IFSC Bouldering Mumbai FINAL.

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2017 IFSC World Cup Bouldering Navi Mumbai SEMI-FINAL + FINAL Live Feed

We are pleased to announce that Canadian athlete Alannah Yip has made the semi-final round at the 2017 IFSC World Cup Bouldering event in Navi Mumbai, India.

Below are the live feeds for semi-finals and finals.

Semi-finals starting on Saturday @ 830pm.

Finals starting on Sunday @ 445am

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Development News ‘New Route ‘Lunar Tide (5.11d, 250 m, 10 pitches) on Zodiac Wall’

We are pleased to announce that Jason Ammerlaan and Colin Moorhead have established a new route, Lunar Tide (5.11d, 250 m, 10 pitches), on the Zodiac Wall in Squamish, BC.

Lunar Tide (5.11d, 250 m, 10 pitches)

Approach: As for Gone Surfing. Follow Astro Ledge across and past Parallel Passages. Two bolt belay can be found under the obvious splitters of Gone Surfing. If you’ve reached the Calling, then you have gone too far.

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Access Alert: Climbing Closure to Protect Falcons (June 23, 2017)

BC Parks staff and climber volunteer attempts have been attempting to locate the falcon nest in the Squamish Buttress/ Apron/ South Gully area this week. Their work along with additional climber reports (Thanks guys!) indicate that falcons have nested in the Lower South gully area at around the height of Memorial Crack and terminus of Rock-On. Juvenile falcons have been observed adjacent to Calculus Crack. Effective immediately, BC parks is amending the falcon closure area to the Lower South Gully from its border formed by Calculus Crack with following routes affected:

• Calculus Crack and its new Neighbor
• Memorial Crack and Ledge
• Bad Pants Party
• Rock-on Area (Rock on, Bastille, Hard-on, The Great Arch)
• The Opal Wall (Mercy Street, The Opal)
• Mushy Peas

The previous closure for the Squamish Buttress / Butt Lite ,the Echelon wall (Ultimate Everything, Upper Echelon), and Prow and Kashmir Walls is now lifted. .
BC Parks and volunteer climbers are to continue falcon monitoring and potentially lift this this closure in the next couple weeks as the fledglings appear to be close to leaving the nest.

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Local News ‘Senja Palonen sends ‘Moment of Silence (5.13c)’ at Horne Lake, BC’

We are pleased to announce that Vancouver-based climber and longtime Squamish veteran, Senja Pelonen, has sent Moment of Silence (5.13c) at Horne Lake, BC.

Known for her early ascent of Zombie Roof (5.12d) and numerous photos across a variety of climbing media, Senja has been enjoying the freedom of the road for the past few months. It was that freedom lead her to spend some considerable amount of time over on the island, and specifically Horne Lake where yesterday she sent her first 5.13c! Congratulations Senja!

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Local News ‘Mike Foley Sends Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC’

We are very psyched to announce that American climber, Quest Grad and resident of Vancouver, Mike Foley has made an ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d). After being ever so close for a couple years, Mike put that thing to rest yesterday. Truly admirable tenacity to go back to a project that has beat you down and put it to bed!

Congrats Mike!

The end of an era. Decided to make the most of the longest day of the year and drove up to Squamish after a work. Tired but psyched, I made a solid effort on Dreamcatcher only to fall slapping the finishing jug. After a short rest, I tied in one more time. With a few little mistakes I made it to final rest before the crux. Some deep breaths, a couple power screams, and a split second decision to change some beta and I found myself clipping the chains. This has been my longest and most mentally challenging endeavor of my climbing career. Hands down my proudest achievement. Coming back to work today feels surreal. Mixed feelings of relief, excitement, and disblief . So many thanks to everyone who has helped me along way. . . 🙏 @paul_nadler for the raw send footy, @toryannajumpingbean for the 🎣 and @jessecwarren for the dog control . . @lasportivana @petzl_official

A post shared by Mike Foley (@fikemoley) on

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Video ‘The Classics featuring C’etait Demain (first 8a) in Fontainebleau’

The cradle of bouldering for over 130 years, in Fontainebleau the first 8A already boasts a 33-year history. However, even today, with the advent of a ninth Bleau grade, Jacky Godoffe’s C’était demain remains a tough nut to crack.

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Development News ‘New Two-pitch Climb ‘Mystic Fingers (5.11d)’ on the Bulletheads’

We are pleased to announce that Jason Green has completed a new two-pitch climb on the Bulletheads, Stawamus Chief, Squamish, BC

The climb itself, Mystic Fingers (5.11d) is located 10 meters left of Bullethead East and climbs a series of thin cracks and micro corners. Described by Green as ‘Really fun technical climbing with most cruxes bolted but you’ll still need a rack up to #1 Camalot with a few extra small pieces and small wires’.

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Issue #2

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