Patxi Usobiaga takes us through the process of what it was like to climb a route he had attempted 8 years ago in Oliana, Spain when he felt he was at his peak. That was before his life changed and climbing took a backseat. In 2016 and 2017 Patxi returned to climbing 9th grade routes and on November 10th, 2017 he sent Pachamama, a route that marked a before and after for him as a climber. He had left it undone 8 years before when he first tried it, but he was finally in shape and motivated enough to return, work on this project, and eventually send what has been his hardest route to date.
Video ‘Seb Bouin: The Motivation to Move (9B/B+)’
When choosing a project far from home, Seb Bouin realizes the challenges associated with distance: Not only when it comes to the difficulty of the route, but also in terms of motivation, focus and personal growth. But Move 9b/9b+ in Flatanger, Norway, was the perfect challenge and he couldn’t resist. Now Seb’s fully committed, and on to what he calls the “logical next step” of his progression.
Video ‘Teaser for Patxi Usobiaga climbing Pachamama’
We are very psyched for this to drop in three days. Patxi Usobiaga climbing Pachamama.
Video ‘First Female Ascent of American Hustle (8c) by Sasha DiGiulian’
Sasha is putting out some sweet videos as of late. Here is the First Female Ascent of American Hustle (8c).
Spotcheck ‘Joe’s Valley Bouldering in Orangville, Utah’
Joe’s Valley is littered with striking black and gold boulders made of perfect sandstone. The style lends itself to gymnastic movement – often the holds are good, it’s just hard to get between them.
Nestled just outside the otherwise sleepy town of Orangeville (pop 1400) in Utah, the popularity of bouldering in Joe’s Valley brings abundant visitors and is simply growing. In the fall of 2015 the first annual Joe’s Valley Festival was put on. The long out-of-print guidebook is to be replaced with a brand new guide in the spring of 2018. Environmental and economic assessments are currently underway to minimize climber impacts, and big changes may be coming soon.

Graham McGrenere on Lactation Station (v10). Photo by Kim McGrenere ©
Joe’s Valley bouldering is concentrated in three main areas: Left Fork, Right Fork, and New Joe’s. Thinking you want to make the trip down and seeking some trip beta? Look no further!
Local News ‘Matthew Waring sends Encore en Fois (v11); First of the Grade’
We are pleased to announce that local climber Matthew Waring has used the good weather to his advantage and sent Encore en Fois (v11). This was the first of the grade for Matt and a goal that he has been working towards since starting climbing 15 years ago. Congratulations Matt!
Video ‘Sasha DiGiulian sending The Web (5.13) in Eldorado Canyon’
There was a time when you couldn’t open a climbing magazine without seeing ads featuring some wannabe hardperson clinging to the sheer overhanging rock face that is the Web. Sure it’s about 25 feet long and 100 yards from the parking lot and picnic tables, but something drew the early ’90s sport climber crowd to this route like long-lost relatives to lottery winners. Greasy slopers and crimps make up this climb, polished not merely by overuse but by virtue of the slick quartzite they were hewn from, by nature.
Video Replay ‘Final Round 2018 USA Sport & Speed Open National Championships’
2018 USA Climbing Sport & Speed Open National Championships, March 16-17 at Mesa Rim Reno.
Canadian Climber Marc-Andre Leclerc Presumed Dead at 24
It is with a heavy heart that we write Squamish-local and legendary Canadian Alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc has passed away at the young age of 24. Although details of his passing are currently not known, Marc’s father, Serge Leclerc, announced his sons death early this morning on a GoFundMe page dedicated to Marc and his family.
Marc, along with climbing partner Ryan Johnson summited the Mendenhall Towers on Juneau’s Mendenhall Ice Field on Monday Mar. 5th, which was the last time the two made communication. Ongoing rescue efforts have taken place since the pair did not check in on Mar. 7th and continued up until today.
As an ambassador of our sport, Marc was an absolute legend. Always psyched, always smiling, he was and will continue to be a huge part of our climbing community. We will miss him dearly.
Video ‘Sasha DiGiulian Climbs Full Equip (8c) in Oliana, Spain’
Sasha DiGiulian climbing 140 foot 8c, 5.14b, Full Equip, in Oliana, Spain.














