This weekend, Allez Up in Montreal played host to the 2019 CEC Lead & Speed Nationals. The event took place across the weekend, showcasing some of Canada’s finest climbing athletes. Allison Vest and Guy McNamee stood at the top of the podium and deemed the 2019 Canadian National Difficulty Champions.
Guy McNamee. Photo courtesy of @allezUP
The 1980’s saw climbing standards rise exponentially. At the start of the decade, 7b+ was cutting edge, but by the end of the ’80s, 9a was the new world standard. By the end of the decade, the sport had changed beyond recognition and a paradigm was set for future generations.
A small group of climbers would do anything to climb full-time: sleeping in sheds underneath crags, shoplifting for food and clothes, and living off the dole. These climbers were living outside the rest of society and went on to become the most influential figures in the history of British climbing.
A UKClimbing film directed by Nick Brown and supported by BMC TV, Boreal and Wild Country.
In response to the Drafted Bylaw 2679 that bans both vehicle camping and wild camping at any public place within the municipal boundary of Squamish, a few local climbers in our community have started an advocacy group specifically for those who choose or are forced to live in their vehicles.
The advocacy group, Vehicle Residents of Squamish (VRC), launched their website that defines their mandate online this week and are asking those who live in vehicles for part of the year to fill out a survey.
According to their website, their mandate is to:
-Advocate on behalf of vehicle dwellers who consider Squamish their primary place of residence
-Engage with appropriate levels of government when necessary (indigenous, district, regional, provincial, federal)
-Address concerns of the members of the Squamish vehicle dwelling community
-Engage with groups concerned about vehicle dwellers
-Provide resources for vehicle dwellers residing in Squamish
-Engage in outreach work with visiting vehicle dwellers
They have also started a petition online to oppose the drafted bylaw, which is suppose to be scheduled for a reading at next week’s city council meeting.
For those interested in voicing concerns regarding the drafted bylaw, please email City Council before next Tuesday to voice your concerns.
Primitivo is one of the best new problems in the world situated in Val Bavona, in Ticino, CH. FA circa April 2019.
For those who were in the boulders yesterday, you may have noticed that there are a few excavators around the Apron Parking lot and then some work being done on the trail between the Apron Parking Lot and the main parking lot beside the highway. Here is the release from BC Parks.
Between April 25 and May 31, BC Hydro will be conducting civil works on their infrastructure adjacent to Stawamus Chief Provincial Park. Some of this work will occur along the Climbers Access Trail, located between the Climber’s Access Parking Lot and the main parking lots by the campground.
Please expect delays as crews and machinery operate in these areas. For your safety, please stay well back of operating machinery and adhere to all signs directing trail users.
On the 30th anniversary of his ascent of Agincourt, the first 8C rock climb in France, Ben Moon embarks on a trip down memory lane to once again visit the place that played such an important role in the history of sport climbing.
Daniel Woods is a very very guy. The Rocklands are a very very place. Check out D-dubs take down some boulder problems from his 2018 South Africa voyage.
We are pleased to announce that Mike Foley has made the first ascent of a new route ‘Middle Child (5.13+) at The Monestary in Chek Canyon. The new route links Little Sister (5.13b) into Big Brother (5.13c).
The new line required one bolt, put in by Jared Nelson, and adds a very long and difficult move between the routes. Nice Mike!
Another weekend World Cup action, this time In Wujiang, China, featuring bouldering and speed.
Alannah Yip has already had a good showing with a new Canadian Speed record with a time of 9.449, earning her a 29th place finish. The bouldering qualification round took place yesterday, with Alannah Yip being the only Canadian to advance to semi-finals with a 15th place finish.Sean McColl finished 37th and will not make finals. Below is the live feed for the semi-final round starting @ 630px pacific, followed by the Canadian team results.
“When it goes it’ll probably be my hardest climb!” Chris Sharma footage to get you going!
Peter Winter / Leavenworth WA / Grand Wall Boulders / 25 V4 Circuit / Home Campus Board
Hope BC / Jeremy Smith / Scrub your Face / Godman Creek / Ring Workouts / Wiretap