Recent News 2014/12/11

Domen Škofic, a Slovenian climber, has repeated Chirs Sharma’s Papichulo 9a+. Source: 8a.nu

Papichulo has always held a particular allure, with some of the best climbers struggling with the route. The route has only been sent by Chris Sharma (fa), Adam Ondra, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Jakob Schubert, and Sachi Amma.

Mina Markovic onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. Source: 8a.nu

Los Humildes pa Casa has been previously onsighted by two female climbers including Evgeniya Malamid of Russia and Maja Vidmar of Slovenia.

Click below for clips of Chris Sharma and Joe Kinder on Papichulo 9a+

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Daniel Woods on Lucid Dreaming

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Fundraiser Competition at The Hive

Joseph Wong and the VRCG are hosing a fundraising competition at The Hive on Dec. 19th, 2014

Christmas is coming soon and the Hive now has a complete set of new problems. While you are busy preparing Christmas gifts. We have an idea for you. Dec 19 Friday 6-9pm, Hive & VRCG will host a Christmas comp at the Hive. $5 entry goes completely to Escalando Fronteras who is building a youth centre with climbing and therapy to help 1000 youth in Mexico rise beyond life with drugs and gang wars. Watch the link video and learn more. Our volunteer Tiffany Hensley is there volunteering at the moment and her stories just blow minds away, inspiring us that the best gift on earth is indeed in giving itself. You can also donate directly to them here.

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New Climbing Gym in Squamish

squamish

Throughout the years, Squamish locals have always wrestled with what to do in the months of rain that persist over the winter. From the home wall to the unethical historical sculpting of outdoor spaces (see the back of the Cacodemon boulder for more details), the Squamish local will always find a way to keep going during the monsoon.

In recent years, Squamish has been home to the Grand Wall Bouldering Cooperative. This project was originally spearheaded by Tyson Braun and Jeremy Smith. Their vision was to open an indoor climbing space that is shared among its members. The Coop continues to flourish in Downtown Squamish and accommodates approximately 150 members per year. As I am sure anyone will tell you, this gym does not run itself! Through the hands of a few leaders in the community and dedicated volunteers, this indoor space keeps everyone cranking in the winter.

As the city of Squamish continues to grow, so does the vision from the year-round climbing community. Spearheaded by Lauren Watson and Adrian Blachut, a new commercial climbing gym is already in the works. Ground Up Climbing Centre is slated to open in September of 2015 and the community is already abuzz.

Opening a new gym is not an easy task. In fact, it takes a lot of tenacity from those who have a bigger vision and Squamish Climbing Magazine had a chance to catch up with Lauren Watson to get the scoop on what is in the works.

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La Sportiva Legends Only Backstage

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Tour de Bloc Wrap-up | The Hive

IMG_2063Tiffany Melius on Women’s #1

The Tour De Bloc finals took place last night and what an exciting finish to a great event. The night began with the Women’s final and the competition looked fierce. Shannon Russell, a dark horse from Seattle dominated the field, completing all four problems and taking the top of the podium. The Men’s final ended with some high energy and high drama. Men’s problem #1 was a heinous crimp problem that first looked like no one would do until Jason Holowach crushed it on his first attempt with no hesitation. The problem was then completed by Jesse Warren, an American student attending Quest University in Squamish, BC and then, despite making an error in the sequence, flashed by North Van local, Simon Parton.

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TDB: Swarm the Hive Update December 6th, 2014

Going into finals tonight are the following:

Men’s Final

Simon Parton
Jesse Warren
Jason Holowach
Gavin Johnson
Matt Keays
Jesse Taplin
Robert Stewart-Patterson
David Echeverri

Women’s Final

Shannon Russell
Maria Celkova
Tiffany Melius
Celeste Wall
Alannah Yip
Sidney Trinidad

Finals will open the doors at 630pm and I think will start at 7 pm. Going to be a great time!

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Local News

A number of news outlets are reporting that a man was rescued off a ledge on the Chief yesterday after wingsuiting off third peak. Link to the story is here.

This weekend, the SAM Squamish Academy of Music, located at 38121 Second Avenue, is hosting an art show by Lan Yao. Lan has been a a part of the Squamish climbing community for as long as I can remember and her art is brilliant and full of colour. Event starts at 8pm.

ianneon_juice

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The Hard Line featuring Dave MacLeod and Callum Muskett

This is a fantastic glimpse into what Patagonia really feels like. Worth a watch!

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Getting Ready for the Tour De Bloc at the Hive

dustin-curtis Dustin Curtis (right) and Andreas Lerch (left). Photo courtesy of David Tam ©

For those of you who do not know, Tour De Bloc 12 is coming to The Hive this weekend. These comps take a fair amount of organization and preparation the month before and I thought it would be great to check in with the setting team to see what they are up to this time around. Here is our interview with head routesetter for The Hive, Dustin Curtis.

Tour de Bloc is taking place at the hive for the second year in a row. A lot of planning and organization goes into getting an event like this off the ground. Where does the process start for you and the team?

The process usually starts about 2 months before the competition, the key individuals involved in organizing the event will meet and hash out details like; schedule of day of (the times of each rounds and the like,) preliminary T-Shirt design, sponsors, things like that. Usually this will consist of The Hive’s Marketing and Community Director, DeeDee Ryan, The General Manager Shayne Russell, The Assistant Manager, Kate Bell, as well as Andreas Lerch and myself, representing the Route Setting Crew. We also discuss how many volunteers we’ll need for the course of that week, anything else that goes beyond regular gym function for the week before the comp.

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