Here is an update of climbing news from the past week.
Jakob Schubert has repeated Fight or Flight 9b. Source: UKclimbing
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has repeated Jan Hojer’s Le Marathon de Buissy 8C in Fontainebleau. Source: 8a.nu
Ashima Shiraishi has had a huge trip in Bishop, CA, sending Maze of Death V12, Babeurre V12, and Blood Meridian V13. Source: 8a.nu and UKClimbing
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson continue to attempt the Dawn Wall and are taking a rest day today. Source: Twitter
The Dawn Wall: perhaps the most famous undone climb in the world, and certainly a contender for the hardest. All the single pitched have now been redpointed and once again Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are making a push to free the entire route. Thanks to modern social media, we get to watch their progress live. If you haven’t already, checkout their Facebook pages for daily updates, including some great photos.
And since no one can get enough Tommy Caldwell these days, here is a video of him preparing for The Dawn Wall by redpointing a bunch of hard routes at the Monastery in day.
As much as we love to find stories about climbing at Squamish Climbing Magazine, we also love to make climbing stories of our own. In other words, we are on vacation! We are taking in the sandstone and sun of St. George, Utah for the Christmas holiday!
What this means is that posts over the next two weeks may be a bit more sporadic than everyday but we will still be posting periodically. Please keep checking back with us over this time and if you would like to stay informed, join our twitter or facebook group.
Big things coming up for the new year! Squamish Climbing Magazine has some big ideas and I hope you will be a part of it.
Thanks
Tim Schaufele
It has been a pretty slow week for videos on the internet so Squamish Climbing Magazine looked back into the vault of our favourite films. While doing so, it occurred to me that that I love a Jonathan Siegrist flick. He is always trying hard and he seems to have a good attitude about success and failure. He has never been featured in a full-length film but the clips of him are truly amazing. I think my favourite is the one featured here, but when putting the question to Luke he had a whole other perspective. Here is one from the vault by 3 String Media. Tune in Christmas day for Luke Zimmerman’c pick. I am sure it won’t disappoint.
Killian Fischhuber announced that he is retiring from competition. Source: NOA (requires google translation)
Both Killian and Anna Stohr visited Squamish this summer. Unfortunately, they had pretty much the worst weather ever. Here is a video of Killian in India that I find very amusing.
Adam Ondra has flashed another 9a, Chromosome Y, first established by Pirmin Bertle. . Source: 8a and UKClimbing.
See more for a video of Pirmin Bertle sending both Chromosome X (9a) and Chromosome y (9a). Unfortunately, this video is not the greatest quality.
Here is a small film that was released by Arctyrx during the summer following Marc Andre Leclerc and Jason Kruk in Patagonia. Some great shots of Squamish and Patagonia captured by Alex Lavigne. If you missed it, Squamish Climbing Magazine had a chance to catch up with Marc before he went to patagonia this year. Click here for full article.
This clip has been making the rounds on the internet. Small clip of a great little boulder Gription (v9) in Moe’s Valley. Worth a watch.
Peter Winter / Leavenworth WA / Grand Wall Boulders / 25 V4 Circuit / Home Campus Board
Hope BC / Jeremy Smith / Scrub your Face / Godman Creek / Ring Workouts / Wiretap