Peixe Porco (9a) in Sagres, Portugal
This small clip features Leopoldo Faria completing a two year project, Peixe Porco (9a), in Sagres, Portugal. Crisp clear footage with nothing but the sound of waves during the ascent. Really enjoyed this one.
IFSC World Climbing Camp at The Boulders in Central Saanich, BC
On the weekend of February 20-22, 2015, The Boulders climbing gym in Central Saanich, BC will play host to the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) 2015 World Climbing Camp. The camp will feature 12 of the top world cup speed and lead climbers from around the world. Confirmed guest athletes for the event include Adam Ondra, Sean McColl, Domen Skofic, Sebastian Halenke, Mina Markovic, Kim Jain, Charlotte Durif, Maja Vidmar, Libor Hroza, Stanislav Kokorin, Klaudia Buczek and Aleksandra Rudzinska. The event will combine a mock competition with workshops from these climbers, as well as event staff from around the world. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Kimanda Jarzebiak, the Chair of the not-for profit society that runs The Boulders climbing gym in Central Saanich, BC.
Looking out from the lead wall at The Boulders. Photo courtesy of The Boulders ©
‘Armchair Climbing and Motivation’ with Jeremy Blumel
Jeremy Blumel writes a bi-monthly column about climbing for The Squamish Chief. Squamish Climbing Magazine vows to never miss it again and neither should you. Here is an excerpt from this week.
‘This past week a pivotal event in rock climbing history took place, an ascent of significance. Two American climbers completed a seven-year dream of free climbing the Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley California. Why was this significant? In the climbing world it’s the hardest multipitch free climb in the world, climbing El Cap’s 3,000 feet over 32 pitches of climbing.’
To see the full article at The Squamish Chief please click here.
Recent News ‘Bishop Mega-project’
Daniel Woods has made the first ascent of the Bishop, CA mega project on the Grandpa Peobody boulder in the Buttermilks (source: UKClimbing). Daniel can be seen climbing this project to the top in the film Exposure II (check out our review here). Looks like the training at home paid off.
2nd Fundraiser for Family of Elena Cernicka
Following the fundraising efforts of Henry Wang and The Edge Climbing Gym yesterday, Daniel Poggi, owner of ClimbBase5 climbing gym in Coquitlam, and others, have organized a fundraiser from climbing communities across the county to help with the efforts.
“We are following Henry Wang’s lead, as are other gyms from coast to coast. During the weekend of January 24 and 25th, 2015, we will be donating a percentage of our sales to the family of Elena Cernika.”
The following gyms will be donating a portion of their sales next weekend (23rd – 25th) for the cause.
Climb Base5, Coquitlam, B.C.
The Boulders Climbing Gym, Central Saanich, B.C.
Project Climbing Centre, Abbottsford, B.C.
Coastal Climbing Centre, Surrey, B.C.
Cliffside Climbing Gym, Kamloops, B.C.
Beyond The Crux Climbing Gym Inc., Kelowna, B.C.
Allez Up Climbing/Escalade, Montreal, Q.C.
Wallnuts Climbing Centre, St. Johns, NL
“For an updated list of participating gyms in your community, I encourage everyone to follow the Facebook Fundraiser for Elena Cernicka event page.” Said Poggi.
Said Wang, “The climbing community is a strong one. I hope everyone can take some time this Friday and next weekend to reconnect with your climbing friends, make a donation, and remember a truly wonderful person. Our hearts and thoughts are with Elena’s family at this difficult time.”
Donations can be made here for the family. There is also a Celebration of Life at Holy Trinity School gymnasium today, Saturday Jan. 17th, 2015, from 1pm to 3pm.
Elena’s Story
Last week saw the tragic death of three climbers, Stephanie Grothe, Neil Charles Mackenzie, and Elena Cernicka, in Joffre Lakes Provincial Park, near Pemberton, BC. They were found 300 metres below the Central Couloir and it is believed that the group were only a few metres from the summit when the accident occurred.
The following is a statement written by the family of Elena Cernicka, 35, of North Vancouver. Elena was a Patient Safety Co-ordinator with Providence Health Care, a wonderful wife, and a mother of two. Squamish Climbing Magazine is privileged to be able to share their story.
“As the morning of Saturday January 10th approached, Elena and her husband Tomas were looking forward to their weekend backcountry trip in anticipation. They were leaving their two little children, Martin, 2, and Jakub, 4, with their grandparents for only one night and the boys were very excited about their slumber party!
