The International Federation of Sport Climbing began its first-ever World Climbing Camp yesterday at The Boulders Climbing Gym in Central Saanich, BC. The camp will play host to a number of professional sport climbers, including Sean McColl and Adam Ondra over the weekend.
Campers arriving at the Boulders. Photo courtesy of Christian J. Stewart ©
Domen Skofic (left) and local Dan Beland. Photo courtesy of Christian J. Stewart ©
This weekend, Grip It Climbing Gym will play host to the Tour De Bloc in a doubled billed event for both Climbing Escalade Canada and the Alberta Climbing Association. This time around, Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it best to check in with a local climber who will be competing in the event. Lucas Colleaux is a 20 year old climber from Saskatoon, SK. He has competed in a number of indoor climbing competitions across western Canada and the US. He is your darkhorse for this weekend’s Tour De Bloc.
Squamish Summers (Lucas on the left). Photo by Nikita Taylor ©
On Friday, February 20th, the Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver will host the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival featuring speaker Will Gadd and the film Frozen Titans. Frozen Titans features Will Gadd climbing Helmcken Falls in Wells Gray Provincial Park.
The waterfall at Helmcken Falls created some massive challenges, both for the climber and the film crew. This film was produced by Reel Water Productions, a local production company based in Squamish, BC that has created huge momentum over the past few years. Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it best to check in with Dave Pearson on the Titan shoot as well as other projects they have going on. Dave is one of the kindest guys around and here is what he had to say.
Be sure not to miss The Making of Frozen Titans in the middle of this article.
With all the commotion this week, Squamish Climbing Magazine has not forgotten that this weekend, Grip it Climbing Centre in Saskatoon, SK will be hosting the Tour De Bloc. This event is part of the national series as well as the ACA Provincials meaning that it is sanctioned by both Climbing Escalade Canada and the Alberta Climbing Association. This is going to be a very fun event and most likely will include all the hard hitters from Alberta. For details of this event, please visit the Tour De Bloc website and stay tuned tomorrow here at Squamish Climbing Magazine for Tour De Bloc coverage!
Last week, Mike Doyle, a Canadian rock climber from the Lower Mainland who now lives in Las Vegas, NV, completed one of his most difficult projects to date. The route, Necessary Evil (5.14c), was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 1997, launching him into stardom. Located in the Virgin River Gorge, the route itself is considered a test-piece of the area and has destroyed the dreams of many hard climbers.
Mike Doyle is no stranger to hard climbing, with a number of 5.14b ascents including Southern Smoke (5.14b), Fifty Words for Pump (5.14a), and the first ascent of Lucifer (5.14c), as well as the first ascent of A.D.A.T.O (5.14b) on Vancouver Island. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the opportunity to catch up with Mike and here is what he had to say.
Mike on Necessary Evil. Photo courtesy of Rich Wheater ©
So Necessary Evil is complete. How does it feel?
Amazing! Honestly it was a huge relief to get it done. The weather has been crazy this year and conditions were not looking good for the next little bit. In addition, work has really gotten busy and all of February I haven’t been sleeping much between work, climbing and training. I really didn’t want to have to wait until next season to redpoint it.
Thanks to Jeff Yoo, who was front and centre yesterday in the Grand Wall Boulders, Squamish Climbing Magazine is pleased to release this footage of Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher (5.14d) yesterday before his show at VIMFF. For those who don’t know the history of Dreamcatcher, it was first bolted by Chris Sharma and Sonnie Trotter for the Petzl Rocktrip in 2005 and soon became the obsession of Chris Sharma, who had to come back to Squamish for a second trip to get the first ascent. The route was then completed by Sean McColl in 2009, exactly four years to the day of Sharma’s ascent. Rumour has it that Sean ended up doing it a second time for a different camera angle. Finally, it was recently sent in 2012 by local hardman, Ben Harnden, who received very little media attention for his ascent.
Below is Adam Ondra’s flash attempt on Dreamcatcher.
With the arrival of Adam Ondra this weekend, it is really the first time a climber abroad has travelled to Squamish and the weather has actually worked out. This being said, the conditions were far from ideal. Lets hope Adam finds the time to come back and finish the rig.
To follow us, please join our facebook page or our twitter feed.
Here is the latest video from Jimmy Webb, who travelled to City of Rocks after being driven out of Squamish by the rain last summer. Just what a Tuesday morning needs!
The forest was abuzz today with the idea that Adam Ondra was going to try Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in the Grand Wall Boulders. For those who don’t know, Dreamcatcher was first put up by Chris Sharma and has only seen two repeats, one from Sean McColl and one from local hardman Ben Harnden. Sonnie Trotter brushed down the route and gave Adam beta while everyone waited in anticipation. Adam made it past the slab (statically, I may add) and onto the sloper traverse only to fall at the seventh bolt where the pin scars start (and where the route is typically wet!). Pretty impressive considering the slab itself has ejected many admirers. Hopefully, he will give it one more go before he speaks tonight at VIMFF. Stay tuned for an update!
UPDATE: On the second attempt, Adam lost his footing on the slab. Done for the day!
Adam is speaking tonight at VIMFF. Should be a good one. Click the VIMFF banner to your right to learn more.
Ondra on his attempt of Dreamcatcher. Photo courtesy of Tom Wright ©
The final results are in for the Youth Bouldering Nationals that took place in Burlington, ON this weekend. The top three competitors from each category will represent Canada at the World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy. Congratulations to all our BC competitors. Special thanks also to all the coaches, parents, and volunteers that make these events possible.
Junior Girls
1. FRANGOS, Rebecca AB
2. TWEG, Esti ON
3. BLOCK, Hannah BC
4. LANDRY, Eve Marie QC
5. FRANGOS, Sara AB
6. GRAHAM, Pia ON
7. WU, Caitlin BC
8. WYETT, Olivia ON
Junior Boys
1. TIUKUVAARA, Sam ON
2. FUNK, Andrew AB
3. GOSSELIN, Tristen BC
4. SMITH, Nathan ON
5. VAN DEN BOSCH, Kiefer QC
6. KARAMAN, Dmitri AB
7. DOUCET, Alexandre QC
8. SIROIS, Charles QC
On Thursday February 19th, The Cinematheque in Vancouver, BC, will play host to the VIMFF Climbing Culture night featuring the films Above The Alley, Beneath The Stars, Wild New Brave, Novato, and Redemption. All of the films on this night tell a unique tale of climbing culture and its personal effect on the individual. Should be a fantastic night. Here is our review of the films featured.For tickets for this show, please click here.
Peter Winter / Leavenworth WA / Grand Wall Boulders / 25 V4 Circuit / Home Campus Board
Hope BC / Jeremy Smith / Scrub your Face / Godman Creek / Ring Workouts / Wiretap