Local News ‘Simon Parton sends Mandala Direct (v12)’

A number of BC climbers have gone south for the holidays, filling up places like Bishop and Heuco Tanks. We are pleased to announce that Simon Parton has made an ascent of Madala Direct (v12), noting on Sendage.com that it may be harder now that the jug has broken.

It looks as though Simon made his way to Bishop after heavy snow in Heuco Tanks. Notable sends since our last update including Mojo (v10), Mo Mojo (v11), Dead Serious (v10), A Good Day For Swiss Crisp Mix (v10), and a double ascent of Nacho Man (v9) with Josh Muller.

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Don’t Make Too Many Resolutions with Jeremy Blumel

Bring in the New Years with Jeremy Blumel’s final article via The Squamish Chief.

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Photo by Luke Zimmerman ©

For climbers, 2015 has been a year of holding still and trusting where patience will lead us, of the Dawn Wall and its effect on climbing and how it is seen by the rest of the world, of sad departures in the likes of Dean Potter, Graham Hunt, Justin Griffin and Kayah Gaydish.

It has also been the year of new beginnings with the Ground Up Climbing Centre in Squamish and clean break ups with the Stawamus Chief’s calving off of 1,600 cubic metres of rock on April 19.

Yet, here we sit, overfed, eyes glazed over and stomach aching from an overabundance of wealth and opportunity, watching as a white winter season descends upon us these last December days.

How will you approach 2016? My mind is constantly swimming in climbing goals, destinations, ideas, training, routes, features, boulders, faces – possibilities. How will you change your life for the better? Will you approach it from a diet angle, curbing your drinking to help recovery, no more sweets or refined sugar, and shrinking your portions to hone in on when you’re satisfied but not stuffed? Will you take this a step further and experiment with a more rigid diet scheme like the Paleo concept, a scale in one hand for portion measuring and a protein shake in the other?

Maybe you’ve climbed for decades but you’re feeling a new push to improve your climbing technique, like foot work or sequencing? It could be the mental game in climbing, where balancing perceived fear with real risk in falling terms is on your agenda? Maybe it’s a physical goal where you want to structure your climbing into more focused bouts of training, instead of just doing what you’ve always done during the winter to stay fit?

If you’re reading this, chances are you’re climbing already or at least interested in climbing. With a new gym in town and a bouldering co-op as well, you’re poised at the edge of your seat, about to commit dollars, blood, sweat, muscle tissue, skin cells and many endorphins to the cause of improving your life by getting into climbing by whatever means available, whether professional or ad hoc.

For the full article, please visit The Squamish Chief.

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CASBC Update: City of Pencticton Approves Funds for Skaha Bluffs Parkwatch Society

Here is a not from Rolf Ryback, the CASBC regional director for the Okanagan, regarding Skaha Bluffs Parkwatch Society. Special thanks to Rolf for all his efforts making this happen.

As most of you know, we had a rash of break-ins at the parking lot in Skaha last season. A group of local climbers formed the Skaha Bluffs Park Watch Society and met with all levels of local and provincial authorities.

I am extremely happy to announce the City of Penticton has approved a grant of $15,456.00 for the Skaha Bluffs Parkwatch Society. Thank you to the mayor and all the council members for the grant and recognizing how important the climbing community is to Penticton.
We will have a patrol person on site at the parking lot next season. Thank you to all the climbers who donated their time and money to make this happen, we will still need your support. The organizational work will start early spring, details will be announced on this site.

Our Patrol person will be accepting donations to help fund this as an ongoing program, please throw a loonie or toonie in the jar at the parking lot to help fund this program and keep our climbing area crime free.

I will post periodic updates.

Rolf Rybak VP CASBC

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Video: Adam Ondra on Predator (9a+)

A little video of Ondra to keep you going.

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Local News ‘Nathanael Amyot sends Diabolique’

It appears that longtime Squamish local Nathanael Amyot has sent Diabolique (V13) in Hueco. Check out the slick little edit from his instagram:

Diabolique video & editing @syknar scratches @dilatedmonkey #hashtag

A video posted by dilatedmonkey (@dilatedmonkey) on

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Interview with Josie Hetyei

Josie Hetyei is an incredibly inspiring climber. She has redpointed multiple 5.14s including one 5.14b. Even more impressive is how she continues to improve and even have breakthroughs at the age of 38 and after 20 years of climbing. She approaches her climbing with an incredible amount of persistence and diligence and she works really hard to accomplish her goals. For our final interview of 2105, Squamish Climbing Magazine caught up with Josie and she had this to say:

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Josie Hetyei. Photo Dan Beland©

Continue reading »

Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

Ground Up Bouldering Competition Teaser | June 9th, 2016

Here is a teaser for the upcoming bouldering competition at Ground Up on January 9th, 2016. Registration closes January 6th, 2016.

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Video: Bouldering in Colorado with Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven

Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven climbing in Chaos Canyon, RMNP.

Boulders:
Element of Surprise V12
Wormhole V13 FA
Memoirs of the Invisible Climber V12
Eyeball Paul V12 FA

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Local News ‘Josh Muller sends Crown of Arigon V13’

Simon Parton isn’t the only Canadian climber tearing up Hueco Tanks right now. Josh Muller reports on his instagram that he has climbed Crown of Arigon (V13) and flashed both Focus (V10) and A Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix (V10).

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Video: Jimmy Webb on The Matriarch (v15)

Jimmy Webb making the first ascent of The Matriarch (v15) in Rocktown, GA

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