We are very psyched to announce that local climber Stu Smith sent Smashing Windows (5.13c) at Penny Lane in the Smoke Bluffs yesterday afternoon. Smashing Windows is a very technically demanding climb that was first put up by Andrew Boyd in 2010 and has seen very few repeats since that time.
Stu Smith on Smashing Windows (5.13c). Photo by Drew Leiterman ©
Fantastic video featuring a behind-the-scenes look at making volumes.
Ground Up Climbing Centre in Squamish, BC will host their first ever SCBC sanctioned bouldering competition this weekend. With the grand opening of this new facility just last month, the team at Ground Up has joined the BC competition community quickly and their new facility will be on showcase while hosting some of the best competitors from around the province.
The competition will take place on Saturday, January 9th, 2016 with registration beginning at 8am. The Open category qualifiers will begin at 1130am and finals will take place at 7pm. Open Finals will be open to all spectators and doors will open for spectators at 640pm. We thought it a great opportunity to talk to Lauren Watson and Tyson Braun about visioning the climbing gym and now opening the doors. Here is what they had to say.
Photo courtesy of Thomas Burden ©
For those ‘climbing cinephiles’ out there, here is a concept video that integrates multiple shots and drone footage into a pretty fancy finished product. The film does not feature too much outdoor climbing but may be of interest for those looking for a little edge in their creative projects.
Great little video and feature interview out of National Geographic featuring Sonnie Trotter on Castles in the Sky, Canada’s first 5.14a multi-pitch in Canmore, AB
World-class rock climber Sonnie Trotter takes us on his backyard quest, which resulted in Canada’s first multi-pitch 5.14, in this first film by photographer/climber Ben Moon (Denali, Rabbit Island), just released today. Castles in the Sky is a meditation on what inspires Trotter to seek what hasn’t been done and the process he uses to complete it. And now Trotter has another first to add to his personal tick list—being a dad.
Steph Davis free solos Jah Man Tower with a Base jump descent.
A relatively recent first free ascent by Tom Moulin, this roof crack was a long-standing project for decades, thwarting attempts by some legendary crack climbers, perhaps most notably those of Hidetaka Suzuki in the 1980s. The Great Red Roof follows an offset beveled crack for twenty-five feet, yet allows only a handful of jams due to its unique angles. A large flake-jug broke when I started working the route last week, making the transition into the final sloper-campus section considerably harder. In the end, I used an inverted undercling method instead.
While we are on the subject, Here is a great little article featuring Elan and his Olympic hopes and dreams. For the full article, please visit The Globe and Mail by Justine Hunter
Elan Jonas-McRae is doing that thing that competitive climbers do – waving his arms around like a conductor with an especially difficult piece of music, while staring intently at a wall. Once he begins climbing, his actions make sense: With a sequence mapped out, he can move fluidly up the wall – and across the ceiling on a route that only the most accomplished athletes can hope to top.
Adding the carnage of Canadian climbers in Bishop, CA, we are pleased to announce that Elan Jonas McCrae added a number of ascents to his belt, including an ascent of Buttermilker (v13), Beautiful Gecko (v12), and Rorschach Test (v11). He also sent a number of v10’s over the trip.
We are pleased to announce that Luke Zimmerman has finally sent Vince Pinch (v12) to bring in the new year! Luke has made huge in his bouldering this year but no other problem gave him more trouble. Below is a picture of the conditions! Congratulations Luke!
Peter Winter / Leavenworth WA / Grand Wall Boulders / 25 V4 Circuit / Home Campus Board
Hope BC / Jeremy Smith / Scrub your Face / Godman Creek / Ring Workouts / Wiretap