Over the past month, Thomasina Pidgeon has spearheaded a project to infuse the old culture of climbing back in to the forest that we share and love. Funded by Friends of Stawamus, she is hoping to move this project further by collaborating with BC Parks, Squamish Access Society, and Climbers Access Society of BC. Stay tuned for fundraising and donation information.

We are pleased to announce that Alex Megos has made the first ascent of the hardest route in Canadian history! The route, Fight Club (5.15b) located at Ravens Crag in Banff, AB was sent late yesterday on his fourth go of the day after working the rig over five days. The route itself is an extension to an open project that was bolted by Sonnie Trotter on a whim earlier this month.

Perhaps the Canadian Rockies have more to offer in terms of hard climbing! Only time will tell! Be on the look out for the footage of this route filmed by Sonnie Trotter!

Alex Megos on Fight Club (5.15b). Photo courtesy of Josh Muller ©

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We are pleased to announce that Stu Smith made the first ascent of Mullet Power (5.12d/13a) in Smoke Bluffs this week. Stu had scrubbed the line a few years ago but deemed it impossible. The line, located in the Island in the Sky area, follows a thin seem up a short overhanging wall. According to Stu, the route requires a lot of compression slapping and small gear with the top crux only protected by a micro nut and a horrible 000 c3. He reported that falling at the top would most likely seem you ripping and taking a digger.

Here is the iphone video of Stu on the route.

Here are the livefeeds of the 2016 IFSC World Cup Bouldering MUNICH Semi-finals and Finals. Unfortunately, there will be no Canadian athletes featured but the action is surely not to be missed.

Semi-final round starting at 3:30am Mountain time.

Final round starting at 1030am Mountain time.

With a large amount of development over the past few years and a few of the open projects falling in the last two weeks, Evan Hau went to the effort to create a new topo for the area. Please note below some caution regarding the bolts on a number of routes in the area.

Upper Wall. Topo courtesy of Evan Hau ©

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We are pleased to announce that Cody Leyden has made the first ascent of Flight of Icarus (5.13a) at the New World crag in Penticton, BC. According to Cody, the climb is an easy 12 to a v6 or v7 crux followed by fun climbing to the top. Speaking to Cody, he noted that many of the hard moves come above the bolts. Spicy!

We are pleased to announce that Dan Beland has made the second ascent of Elan Jonas-McCrae’s A Stressful Day at the Office (5.14b/c) at Horne Lake yesterday. Dan cam very close on the weekend and decided to make a weekday trip to push the send. Below is footage of his attempt on Saturday.

Chatting with Dan today, he was unsure of the grade but noted that the crux was much shorter than ADATO but the moves were way harder. After finishing the route, Dan re-climbed the crux of ADATO and thought ASDATO was much more difficult. Congratulations Dan!

Another little flick from Stu Smith featuring the route Burning Down the Coil (5.12d) in Crumpit Woods, Squamish, BC.

Another edition of ‘Great Wide Open’ this time featuring Alex Honnold.

We are pleased to announce that Stu Smith has recently put up Ship of Theseus (5.12+/13-) at The Overlook under the Sea to Sky Gondola. According to Stu, the route climbs the crack through the slightly overhung golden wall and joins into Colin Moorehead’s ‘Reverse Cowgirl’.

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