Antihydral: Skin Doping for Climbers

By Luke Zimmerman | April 9, 2015

My hands sweat a lot. Just thinking about my project, I can make beads of sweat appear on my fingertips. On my first trip to Font, I saw Klem Loskot slip off a warm up I’d just shellacked. He turned to me and said “You have fat wet fingers no?”. He was right. I did have fat wet fingers! Given my affliction, when a magic cream from Germany called Antihydral first surfaced on the climbing scene, rumored to stop skin from sweating, I was all over it. Using a chemical to alter my physiology in order to improve my performance at a sport? Sounds like a tried and true methodology to me. Sign me up!

Posted in Articles, Reviews |

SCBC: Cliffhanger’s February Flash puts New Venue on Display

By | March 3, 2015

The first pure difficulty comp of the 2014-15 SCBC season was held at a venue new to the SCBC roster – Cliffhanger, on Industrial Ave, Vancouver. The gym set-up worked well with ample spectator space and a great atmosphere – the sun was shining and the roller doors were raised for a great comp.

Posted in Articles, Indoor, Recent News, Reviews |

Gear Review: Evolv Luchador SC Climbing Shoe

By | February 26, 2015

Gear Review: Evolve Luchador SC

To guide our review, we have broken the shoe down into its specific components to give you a full summary of its features.

The Evolv Luchador SC is the newest shoe in Evolv’s large line of climbing shoes. The Luchador is a technical, all-around shoe that features a slightly downturned last with a semi-asymmetrical toe profile. With a synthetic upper, a new seamless elastic tongue system, and 4.2 mm TRAX® high friction rubber, this shoe is designed for both technical and everyday climbing.

Posted in Articles, Reviews |

VIMFF Film Review: Wideboys II: Slender Gentlemen

By | February 9, 2015

With the arrival of the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival (VIMFF) this weekend, Squamish Climbing Magazine will be featuring stories all this week and next about the festival. VIMFF has always been a time of inspiration and this year is no different. With the festival beginning Friday, February 13th, 2015, we are more than excited to welcome such a talented group from all over the world into our lives.

On Sunday February 15th at 2pm, the Rio Theatre in Vancouver will be host to the Beautiful BC Matinee, an afternoon show dedicated to a selection of adventure films all made here in Beautiful British Columbia including the films Wideboyz II Slender Gentleman, Going Strong, Stikine, and Seven. Below is our review of the film Wideboyz II Slender Gentlemen, by Hot Aches Productions. Set in our very own Squamish, BC, this film is surely not to be missed.

In the 2012 Hot Aches production Wide Boyz, we got to follow two pasty Brits around the United States as they systematically crushed the nation’s hardest wide cracks, culminating with a first ascent of Century Crack (5.14b), likely the hardest off-width in the world. Continue reading »

Posted in Articles, Recent News, Reviews |

Review of Redemption: The James Pearson Story

By | December 11, 2014

Hot Aches Production released their most recent film, Redemption: The James Pearson Story, on November 21st, 2014.

Redemption: The James Pearson Story tells the controversial story of one of the World’s best trad climbers, Englandʼs James Pearson. After a dramatic rise to become one of the top climbers in the UK, controversy surrounding the grading of his routes left him feeling ostracized from the climbing scene. The film tells James’ story and follows his return to the UK as he faces his demons and looks to redeem his place within the UK climbing community.

Here is what we thought at Squamish Climbing Magazine.

Posted in Articles, Reviews |

Review of Project Mina

By | December 2, 2014

Light Shed Pictures released their newest film, Project Mina, directed by Jen Randall, earlier this week. Project Mina follows rock climber Mina Leslie-Wujastyk as she prepares for the 2013 Bouldering World Cup Series.

“Sometime towards the end of 2012, rock climber Mina Leslie-Wujastyk agreed to make a documentary with me. During January 2013, I set out on this project to try and understand what it takes to become a professional athlete, to turn your passion into your career. I realise now this was silly. There is no answer, no formula for making ‘it’ happen. Just like you or me, every athlete is on their own specific and unique path, and this is Mina’s.”

This film is an absolute must see and here is what we thought.

Posted in Articles, Reviews |

Review of Exposure II

By | November 28, 2014

Shark Shop Creative, led by principal cinematographer Chuck Fryberger and director Kyle Berkompas, released their newest film Exposure II earlier this week.

Exposure Vol II, directed by Kyle Berkompas, follows athletes Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Alex Megos, Alex Puccio, and Dmitry Sharafutdinov as they push both both their own personal limits and the limits of climbing. This years film brings you stories and ascents from around the globe including Russia, Switzerland, Germany, Bishop, Squamish, and Colorado in a heart-pounding, forearm pump inducing journey to discover the impossible. Catch Daniels ascent of Lucid Dreaming 8C/V15, Alex Megos on Action Directe 9A/5.14d, and Alex Puccio on her first V13/8B, Top Notch.