With comfort and durability at the forefront of its strengths, the Outdoor Research Uberlayer Hooded Jacket is one of the most versatile jackets we have field tested over the last six months. With its ability to hold heat where you need it and dump it out where you don’t, the Uberlayer is the ideal choice when hiking to and from the crag, belaying during a project run, or just making coffee while waking up outside in the Pacific Northwest. This versatile mid-layer proved to be extremely durable in the harshest climbing conditions, making it a go-to jacket for anyone serious about staying warm during cooler conditions.
Gear Review: Scarpa Furia Climbing Shoe
As Scarpa continues to make a strong push in the North American market, they also continue to impress us with beautifully crafted shoes for climbers who love to get technical with their tools. The Scarpa Furia is a technical climbing shoe designed to maximize feel from plastic to rock. It features a sensitive 3mm rubber with no midsole and an aggressive downturned shape designed for overhanging terrain. We had an opportunity to review the shoe over the last four months and here is what we had to say.
Interview with the Legendary Climber Peter Croft
Peter Croft has long been a legend in the climbing world. Originally born on Vancouver Island and then first learning how to climb in Squamish, Peter cut his teeth in Squamish during a time that was a pure adventure, free from any influence of previous generations. With his first ascents of University Wall (along with Greg Foweraker and Hamish Fraser) and The Shadow, Peter soon became a part of the climbing fabric that made Squamish history. In this interview, we dive into Peter’s origins in Squamish and what life was like in those days as well as his transition to Yosemite and how Squamish prepared him in his future pursuits. Here is what he had to say.
Greg Foweraker, Tami Knight and a young Peter Croft. Photo by Pat Morrow and courtesy of Peter Croft ©
Gear Review: Arc’teryx Atom SL Hoody
The Atom line of jackets by Arc’teryx have an established reputation as warm, light and stylish jackets that are best used as cold weather mid-layers and shoulder season outer-layers. The Atom Super light (SL) is similar in fit and appearance to the Atom LT and AR, but it has much lighter insulation that makes it best suited for high output activities or milder days. Squamish Climbing Magazine has been putting the Atom SL through its paces on snow, rock, and muddy trails over the past 10 weeks, and we’ve found it to be a versatile addition to an admittedly already packed gear closet.
SAS Survey Results for 2016 Squamish Rampage Festival
The Squamish Access Society conducted a survey over the last month regarding the upcoming Squamish Rampage Festival on August 13th, 2016. The festival revolves around the Stawamus Chief Boulders and is starting to gather a fair amount of momentum. Squamish Access Society was looking for public opinion regarding the festival and the results of the survey can be found here.
Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche Release Mini-Edition of 2003 Bugaboos Guidebook
Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche are hard at work on the newest edition of the Bugaboos Guidebook! Since the 2003 edition has gone out of print, the pair have released a mini-guide through High Col to keep up the psych until the new book is released.
To download your copy, please go to the High Col Website. .
Pre-Launch of Grade 7 Equipment and Interview with Nathan Kukathas
Nathan Kukathas started climbing in 1996 in Australia. Growing up unable to afford climbing gear, Nathan started designing and making his own gear including his harness, backpack, tents, sleeping bag, portaledge and haul bags. Soon his design flare brought him into the Outdoor Industry. Today he is a multi-award winning designer having worked for brands including: Arc’teryx, Sea To Summit and Black Diamond. Nathan is an experienced big wall climber and ACMG guide. Climbing routes up to A5, including first ascents and first repeats of routes from Baffin Island, Pakistan and his home town Squamish. We had a chance to sit down with Nathan and talk about his new prototype and how his recent trip to Yosemite opened his eyes to the possibilities. Here is what he had to say.
Nathan in Baffin Island (2013). Photo courtesy of Nathan Kukathas ©
Hi Nathan, thanks for taking the time to answer a few questions about this weekends Big Wall Event and the launch of your new company Grade 7 Equipment. Can you start off by first telling us about the event this Saturday?
Gear Review: Petzl’s Hirundos Harness (Unisex)
The Petzl Hirundos is a high-end climbing harness designed primarily for the purpose of sport and alpine climbing. At the core of its construction is a lightweight design that provides a balance between comfort and a freedom of movement not found in your typical harness. Combined with a number of features that reduce the wear when taking multiple falls, the Hirundos has set a new standard for lightweight harness design. Squamish Climbing Magazine had a chance to field test the harness over the past six months and here is what we thought.
2016 VIMFF Interview with Kevin Jorgeson
With the 2016 Vancouver International Film Festival just around the corner, Squamish Climbing Magazine has gone full tilt with an interview of the festival’s first guest speaker, Kevin Jorgeson. Originally gaining fame with the first ascent of Ambrosia in Bishop, CA, Kevin’s name became synonymous with difficult highball bouldering. After completing Ambrosia, Kevin was ready for his next big project when he was inspired by Tommy Caldwell’s clip of The Dawn Wall in the film Progression. After an email introduction , Tommy and Kevin set off on a seven year journey to complete The Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, CA.
Kevin Jorgeson at home on El Cap. Photo courtesy of James Lucas ©
Kevin and Tommy’s ascent of The Dawn Wall was big for the climbing community but no one could have predicted how it would set fire to the media world earlier last year. With all the hype, big (and sometimes strange!) doors have opened for both Kevin and Tommy. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to sit down with Kevin and talk about the hype, what it all meant, and what is on the horizon. Here is what he had to say.
2016 Vancouver International Film Festival: Interview with Tom Wright
The 2016 Vancouver International Film Festival is just around the corner and Squamish Climbing Magazine is more than excited to be a part of it. The film festival has long been an event that brings the climbing community together to celebrate the virtue of adventure and this year is no exception. With any event of this magnitude, it simply doesn’t put on itself. Behind the scenes there are cogs and gears moving long before any of the films hit the screen. From volunteers to directors, people are dedicating hours and hours to making the festival happen.
One of those people who has taken on a pretty big role over the past six years in bringing the festival together is Tom Wright. Tom Wright spent the first 20 years of his life living a typical middle class English life. A life changing year studying in Montreal introduced him to rock climbing, snowboarding and Canadians – all of which he loved immediately! A natural move out West followed and for the past 7 years Tom has immersed himself in the coast mountain culture. He now lives in Squamish with his girlfriend Vikki and their dog Tundra. His official title at VIMFF is the Director of Film and Programming but he is also the guy who is there every night trying to make sure that things run smoothly. We thought it would be a great idea to interview Tom and get his thoughts on the festival this year and some of the highlights he is looking forward to.