2017 VIMFF Interview with Swiss Climber Nina Caprez

As part of the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival, Nina Caprez will be sharing her stories and passion for rock climbing.

Born in Switzerland, Nina Caprez quickly became a young rock star after years of growing up in the mountains. Competing internationally as a youth, she ended up leaving the competition scene to focus on outdoor climbing in France. Traveling around the world, Nina made a name for herself in big wall climbing, with ascents of Ultime Démence, 5 pitches (8a+) and La Ramirole, 5 pitches (8b) in Verdon, and Orbayu (8c+/9a) in Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain. Over the past year, Nina had a life changing experience after contracting a parasite in Turkey that left her hospitalized and fighting for her life. Now recovered, Nina has re-discovered her love for climbing and has had an awakening about her life and how grateful she is to use her body. We had a chance to check in with Nina before the show tomorrow (Thursday) and here is what she had to say.


Nina Caprez in Oliana. Photo courtesy of Arcteryx ©

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Posted in Interviews, Recent News

2017 VIMFF Interview with American Climber Jonathan Siegrist

On Thursday, February 16th, Jonathan Siegrist will be speaking the Rock climbing Night at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival.

Over the past few years, Jonathan Siegrist has established himself as one of the worlds best sport climbers, with ascents of Papichulo (5.15a), Power Inverter (5.15a) and Biographie (5.15a), along with many of his own first ascents including La Reve (5.14d), Algorithm (5.14d), and Shadowboxing (5.14d), just to name a few.


Photo courtesy of Jonathan Siegrist ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Gear Review: Y &Y Clip Up Belay Glasses

Have you ever wanted to use belay glasses while wearing corrective eyewear or sunglasses but couldn’t handle the bulk of a second set of glasses? Thanks to the innovation team at Y and Y, the new Clip Up Belay Glasses bring the traditional belay glasses to spectacle wearers around the world. Compact, light, and durable, the team at Y and Y development thought of just about everything when designing the new Clip Up. Flip them up, flip them down, the Clip Up gives spectacle wearers even more options than the typical belay glasses. We had a chance to field test the new glasses and here is what we had to say.

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Posted in Recent News, Reviews

Interview with Vancouver-based Climber JJ Mah

With the 2017 BC Bouldering Provincials this weekend, we thought we would go ahead and do two interviews to kick things off. The past few years has seen a number of competitors jump back on the competition scene and this year we saw local climber JJ Mah make it back to podium a number of times this season. Growing up in North Vancouver, JJ started climbing at The Edge Climbing Centre under the tutelage of Andrew Wilson and Mike Doyle. Despite being part of such a strong group, JJ has always stood out because of his smooth climbing style and flawless technique. We are so psyched to check in with JJ before this weekend and here is what he had to say.


JJ Mah. Photo bu Alex Fricker ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

Interview with Canmore’s Becca Frangos

This weekend, Project Climbing Cloverdale will be hosting the 2017 BC Bouldering Provincials sanctioned by Sport Climbing BC. With the influx of Albertan’s onto the BC climbing scene, we thought it would be a great idea to interview Canmore-based climber Becca Frangos.


Becca Frangos on Endless Summer (5.13d). Photo by Sara Frangos ©

Born and raised in Canmore, Alberta, Becca is no stranger to the competition climbing scene. She was the Youth Bouldering and Lead National Champion in 2015, the Open National Lead Champion in 2015 and participated in the Lead World Cup Circuit in 2016. Graduating high school in 2015, Becca, along with her sister Sara Frangos and good friend Andrew Funk, sought out a year long climbing adventure through Europe. Sending her first 5.13d during the trip(Labyrinth in Kalymnos), Becca came home and made an ascent of the infamous Endless Summer (5.13d) in her own backyard. Currently attending the University of Victoria, Becca has made The Boulders in Saanich her home gym as she trains for the 2017 World Cup Circuit. Here is what she had to say.


Becca Frangos. Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

Interview with Larry Michienzi on his Guidebook to Oman Climbing

Over the past few years, a small contingent of climbers (including a number of Canadians!) have been putting a ton of effort into route development in the country of Oman. Seemingly an unlikely place to start a climbing journey, Oman offers some world class climbing that is relatively untouched and ready for exploration. With the most recent edition of ‘Oman Sport Climbing’ being released on the guidebook app Rakkup, we thought it best to check in with the guidebooks author, Canadian-born Larry Michienzi. Here is what he had to say.


Author Larry Michienzi in Oman. Photo courtesy of Natasa Silec ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Gear Review: The Evolv Shaman Climbing Shoe (2016)

As the sport of climbing grows, both responsive technologies and thinner rubbers have influenced the technical design of the modern climbing shoe. As these technologies evolve, shoes are becoming much more refined, moving from the traditional full foot last to multiple connected lasts that work together to create a symmetry of precision. With the re-design of the Evolv Shaman, the designers at Evolv have taken a big step forward in the ever changing climate of the modern climbing shoe. The Evolv Shaman is a technical, downturned climbing shoe that really shines on overhanging terrain and technical heel hooking. It’s natural downturned shape combined with its padded tongue makes it one of the most comfortable climbing shoes we have ever reviewed.

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Posted in Articles, Reviews

2016 VIMFF Fall Series: Interview with Filmmakers Simon Bischoff and Mathew Farrell on ‘Before it Falls’

The 2016 Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will be kicking off their Fall Series next week, running November 22nd to the 25th, 2016. Added late to the program was a film titled ‘Before it Falls’ featuring the Ewbank Route on the Totem Pole in Tasmania. We thought it would be cool to catch up with the film makers to find out how they brought their vision to reality. The film, created by Simon Bischoff and Mathew Farrell will be featured on the Rock Climbing Night, Friday, November 25th at Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver.

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Matthew Farrell. Photo courtesy of Matt Farrell ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

2016 VIMFF Fall Series: Interview with Vancouver climber + Photographer Rich Wheater

The 2016 Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will be kicking off their Fall Series next week, running November 22nd to the 25th, 2016. We are very excited to announce that local Vancouver climber and photographer, Rich Wheater will be speaking during the Rock Climbing night on Friday, November 25th at Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver. Rich is an active member of our climbing community both as a developer and contributor to a variety of climbing media outlets. He recently became a Director of the Climbers Access Society of BC. We had a chance to catch up with Rich this week and here is what he had to say.

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Rich Wheater with his crew Senja and Daisy. Photo courtesy of Rich Wheater ©

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Gear Review: Petzl Arial Dry Climbing Rope 9.5

The Petzl Arial 9.5 Dry Climbing Rope was designed for the experienced climber looking for a good balance between performance and maximum durability. Treated with Duratec Dry and EverFlex handling, this rope is ideal in all conditions and will keep you climbing throughout the seasons. During our six month testing period, we found that this rope can be defined by its durability. The Petzl Arial was able to take substantial abuse when climbing on a regular basis and continued to perform well throughout its lifespan.

petzl-arial

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Posted in Articles, Reviews

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