New Leavenworth Bouldering Guidebook with Kelly Sheridan

By | January 26, 2015

As the author of the original guidebook, Kelly Sheridan has long been a staple of the Leavenworth climbing scene. I don’t think there has been a time when I have driven down icicle canyon without seeing Kelly’s Subaru on the side of the road. When I do see his car, I know that another cluster of great boulders has been discovered. Not only is Kelly a climbing ‘sommelier’ of the Northwest, he is also one of the nicest and approachable guys around. Since the publication of Central Washington Bouldering, Leavenworth has become a must on any climbing road trip to the Pacific Northwest. Over the past few months, the buzz has started regarding the publication of the new Leavenworth guidebook and Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it best to catch up with the man himself.

Myles Byam airing it out above Icicle Creek on The Sleeping Lady. Photo courtesy of Aaron Matheson ©

Posted in Articles, Interviews, Outdoor, Recent News

IFSC World Climbing Camp at The Boulders in Central Saanich, BC

By | January 23, 2015

On the weekend of February 20-22, 2015, The Boulders climbing gym in Central Saanich, BC will play host to the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) 2015 World Climbing Camp. The camp will feature 12 of the top world cup speed and lead climbers from around the world. Confirmed guest athletes for the event include Adam Ondra, Sean McColl, Domen Skofic, Sebastian Halenke, Mina Markovic, Kim Jain, Charlotte Durif, Maja Vidmar, Libor Hroza, Stanislav Kokorin, Klaudia Buczek and Aleksandra Rudzinska. The event will combine a mock competition with workshops from these climbers, as well as event staff from around the world. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Kimanda Jarzebiak, the Chair of the not-for profit society that runs The Boulders climbing gym in Central Saanich, BC.

Looking out from the lead wall at The Boulders. Photo courtesy of The Boulders ©

Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

Spotlight with Jamie Finlayson

By | January 21, 2015

Over the past few years, Jamie Finlayson has become a mainstay in the Squamish climbing scene. Not only is he a Director on the Squamish Access Society, he is also a local business owner and full-time climber. Jamie had a fantastic run this year, including an ascent of Superman (5.14c) on the Big Show in Chek Canyon. Recently, Jamie underwent back surgery after years of pain and discomfort. Squamish Climbing Magazine had a chance to catch up with him while he was down under and here is what he said.

Jamie Finlayson smiling at the camera.

Posted in Articles, Interviews

University of Alberta Climbing Centre

By | January 19, 2015

Twenty-five years ago, the climbing community in Edmonton, AB started something big when the Alpine Club of Canada pitched in to purchase a fifty foot wall in the corner of the Universiade Pavilion (otherwise known as the Butterdome) at the University of Alberta. This month, the climbing community at the university, with all it’s skills and gusto, moved into their new multi-million dollar facility. An amazing new space containing all the memories from the past 25 years. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Lloyd King and Dallas Mix, two climbers who are currently involved with the climbing centre in its brand new location at the Physical Activity and Wellness Centre (PAW).

New lead wall at the University of Alberta. Photo courtesy of Nick Croken ©

Posted in Articles, Interviews

Elena’s Story

By | January 16, 2015

Last week saw the tragic death of three climbers, Stephanie Grothe, Neil Charles Mackenzie, and Elena Cernicka, in Joffre Lakes Provincial Park, near Pemberton, BC. They were found 300 metres below the Central Couloir and it is believed that the group were only a few metres from the summit when the accident occurred.

The following is a statement written by the family of Elena Cernicka, 35, of North Vancouver. Elena was a Patient Safety Co-ordinator with Providence Health Care, a wonderful wife, and a mother of two. Squamish Climbing Magazine is privileged to be able to share their story.

“As the morning of Saturday January 10th approached, Elena and her husband Tomas were looking forward to their weekend backcountry trip in anticipation. They were leaving their two little children, Martin, 2, and Jakub, 4, with their grandparents for only one night and the boys were very excited about their slumber party!

Continue reading »

Posted in Articles, Recent News

Getting Ready for Tour De Bloc Elevation Place with Stacey Weldon

By | January 8, 2015

Stacey Weldon has been on the climbing scene for as long as I can remember. From the gym to the crag, Stacey always seems to enjoy the experience. Not only has she been a leader in the climbing competition scene for a number of years, she also helped organized the Kingston Bouldering Co-op, which is still going strong today. As soon as the Tour De Bloc: Elevation Place was announced, I knew that we would have to check in with Stacey and see how things were going in her new home town. Here is what she had to say.

A little bit of skin care goes a long way.

Posted in Interviews

SCBC: Triple Header Interview with Paul Ledet

By | January 7, 2015

This weekend The Boulders climbing gym, located in Saanich, BC, will play host to The Triple Header. The Triple Header is a sanctioned Sport Climbing BC event that will host competitors in all three disciplines: Bouldering, Difficulty, and Speed. As with any competition, a lot of work goes into the event behind the scenes. Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it might be cool to shift the lens and get the perspective of someone on the inside of it. Paul Ledet is the Head Judge for the event this weekend. Paul has also been a high school teacher in the Saanich district for 22 years. Here is what he had to say.

Paul Ledet (right) at Vail World Cup with Johannes Altner (left).

Posted in Articles, Interviews

Editors note ‘New Years Eve’

By | January 1, 2015

I don’t remember the last time I wasn’t climbing on New Years Eve Day. Most of the time, I find myself south of the border in a sunny, beautiful, outdoor climbing area. This has been true for many years except for last year. I think last year may have been the worst. Let me set the scene.

It was early morning and we had just started to warm up in the Kraft boulders (located in Red Rocks, Nevada). The day started off great: the sun was out, the warm ups were fun, and I was bouldering with two of my best friends. Looking out on the horizon and reflecting how great it felt to be in the warmth of the sun, four large vans rolled into the parking lot and about 50 young climbers rolled out. Crash pads, ipads, parents, and all. The next thing I know, there are more people than there are boulders and the scene had changed dramatically.

Posted in Articles, Recent News

Tour De Bloc 12: Interview with Jason Holowach

By | December 12, 2014

Jason Holowach is one of Canada’s best indoor climbers. Jason has been competing on the comp scene since 2002 where he took everyone by surprise with his technique and strength. In 2006, he took first place on the podium during the Canadian Bouldering Championships and was the second Canadian to ever reach a semi-finals in the World Cup series of Bouldering. Jason is the owner of Grip It climbing gym in Saskatoon, SK. Last week at The Hive, he came second place only by one attempt on problem #4 after a fantastic performance in Finals. Squamish Climbing Magazine tried to catch up with Jason before the Tour De Bloc contest this weekend in Edmonton, AB.

Photo courtesy of Ken Chow

Posted in Articles, Interviews

Review of Redemption: The James Pearson Story

By | December 11, 2014

Hot Aches Production released their most recent film, Redemption: The James Pearson Story, on November 21st, 2014.

Redemption: The James Pearson Story tells the controversial story of one of the World’s best trad climbers, Englandʼs James Pearson. After a dramatic rise to become one of the top climbers in the UK, controversy surrounding the grading of his routes left him feeling ostracized from the climbing scene. The film tells James’ story and follows his return to the UK as he faces his demons and looks to redeem his place within the UK climbing community.

Here is what we thought at Squamish Climbing Magazine.

Posted in Articles, Reviews

New Leavenworth Bouldering Guidebook with Kelly Sheridan

IFSC World Climbing Camp at The Boulders in Central Saanich, BC

Spotlight with Jamie Finlayson

University of Alberta Climbing Centre

Elena’s Story

Getting Ready for Tour De Bloc Elevation Place with Stacey Weldon

SCBC: Triple Header Interview with Paul Ledet

Editors note ‘New Years Eve’

Tour De Bloc 12: Interview with Jason Holowach

Review of Redemption: The James Pearson Story

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