The first pure difficulty comp of the 2014-15 SCBC season was held at a venue new to the SCBC roster – Cliffhanger, on Industrial Ave, Vancouver. The gym set-up worked well with ample spectator space and a great atmosphere – the sun was shining and the roller doors were raised for a great comp.
SCBC: Cliffhanger’s February Flash puts New Venue on Display
Posted in Articles, Indoor, Recent News, Reviews
Gear Review: Evolv Luchador SC Climbing Shoe
Gear Review: Evolve Luchador SC
To guide our review, we have broken the shoe down into its specific components to give you a full summary of its features.
The Evolv Luchador SC is the newest shoe in Evolv’s large line of climbing shoes. The Luchador is a technical, all-around shoe that features a slightly downturned last with a semi-asymmetrical toe profile. With a synthetic upper, a new seamless elastic tongue system, and 4.2 mm TRAX® high friction rubber, this shoe is designed for both technical and everyday climbing.
Tour De Bloc: Interview with Grip It’s Lucas Colleaux
This weekend, Grip It Climbing Gym will play host to the Tour De Bloc in a doubled billed event for both Climbing Escalade Canada and the Alberta Climbing Association. This time around, Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it best to check in with a local climber who will be competing in the event. Lucas Colleaux is a 20 year old climber from Saskatoon, SK. He has competed in a number of indoor climbing competitions across western Canada and the US. He is your darkhorse for this weekend’s Tour De Bloc.
Squamish Summers (Lucas on the left). Photo by Nikita Taylor ©
Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News
VIMFF: Interview with Frozen Titan’s Dave Pearson
On Friday, February 20th, the Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver will host the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival featuring speaker Will Gadd and the film Frozen Titans. Frozen Titans features Will Gadd climbing Helmcken Falls in Wells Gray Provincial Park.
The waterfall at Helmcken Falls created some massive challenges, both for the climber and the film crew. This film was produced by Reel Water Productions, a local production company based in Squamish, BC that has created huge momentum over the past few years. Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it best to check in with Dave Pearson on the Titan shoot as well as other projects they have going on. Dave is one of the kindest guys around and here is what he had to say.
Be sure not to miss The Making of Frozen Titans in the middle of this article.
Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News
Grip it to Host Tour De Bloc this Weekend
With all the commotion this week, Squamish Climbing Magazine has not forgotten that this weekend, Grip it Climbing Centre in Saskatoon, SK will be hosting the Tour De Bloc. This event is part of the national series as well as the ACA Provincials meaning that it is sanctioned by both Climbing Escalade Canada and the Alberta Climbing Association. This is going to be a very fun event and most likely will include all the hard hitters from Alberta. For details of this event, please visit the Tour De Bloc website and stay tuned tomorrow here at Squamish Climbing Magazine for Tour De Bloc coverage!
Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News
Interview: Mike Doyle Puts Down Necessary Evil
Last week, Mike Doyle, a Canadian rock climber from the Lower Mainland who now lives in Las Vegas, NV, completed one of his most difficult projects to date. The route, Necessary Evil (5.14c), was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 1997, launching him into stardom. Located in the Virgin River Gorge, the route itself is considered a test-piece of the area and has destroyed the dreams of many hard climbers.
Mike Doyle is no stranger to hard climbing, with a number of 5.14b ascents including Southern Smoke (5.14b), Fifty Words for Pump (5.14a), and the first ascent of Lucifer (5.14c), as well as the first ascent of A.D.A.T.O (5.14b) on Vancouver Island. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the opportunity to catch up with Mike and here is what he had to say.
Mike on Necessary Evil. Photo courtesy of Rich Wheater ©
So Necessary Evil is complete. How does it feel?
Amazing! Honestly it was a huge relief to get it done. The weather has been crazy this year and conditions were not looking good for the next little bit. In addition, work has really gotten busy and all of February I haven’t been sleeping much between work, climbing and training. I really didn’t want to have to wait until next season to redpoint it.
Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News
Local News ‘Mike Doyle sends Necessary Evil’
Mike Doyle has sent Necessary Evil (5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge. Originally bolted by Boone Speed and then placed in history by Chris Sharma, Necessary Evil remains a test-piece for all generations. A prolific climber in his own right, Mike has been projecting Necessary Evil for the past year and a half. Mike Doyle may no longer be living in the Lower Mainland but I think it is safe to say we all consider his hometown routes to be right here. Congratulations Mike!
Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News
VIMFF: Interview with Jim Martinello
On Wednesday, February 18th, 2015, the Rio Theatre in Vancouver will play host to local Squaminard Jim Martinello as he shares his stories about adventure around the Sea to Sky Corridor and his multi-sport adventure in Northern Canada. Jim has long been a developer in the Sea to Sky corridor, sharpening his teeth on the Pemberton’s Suicide Bluffs and boulder fields. He is well know for his adventurous nature and continues to explore the Sea to Sky corridor on a regular basis. Squamish Climbing thought it best to check in with Jim and see what he is going to be chatting about at VIMFF a week from today. Here is what he had to say.
Hi Jim. Thanks for talking to us. How are things?
Things have been going great, sunny day’s in Squamish are hard to beat. Been spending the last few weeks S.U.P paddling, climbing, new routing and shooting out on the Howe Sound it has been truly magical out there to say the least. Why complain about the skiing snow,blah,blah, change it up and get after it in other way’s, so much adventure and beauty out there to be amongst, change the negative to a positive.
Posted in Articles, Interviews
VIMFF Film Review: Wideboys II: Slender Gentlemen
With the arrival of the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival (VIMFF) this weekend, Squamish Climbing Magazine will be featuring stories all this week and next about the festival. VIMFF has always been a time of inspiration and this year is no different. With the festival beginning Friday, February 13th, 2015, we are more than excited to welcome such a talented group from all over the world into our lives.
On Sunday February 15th at 2pm, the Rio Theatre in Vancouver will be host to the Beautiful BC Matinee, an afternoon show dedicated to a selection of adventure films all made here in Beautiful British Columbia including the films Wideboyz II Slender Gentleman, Going Strong, Stikine, and Seven. Below is our review of the film Wideboyz II Slender Gentlemen, by Hot Aches Productions. Set in our very own Squamish, BC, this film is surely not to be missed.
In the 2012 Hot Aches production Wide Boyz, we got to follow two pasty Brits around the United States as they systematically crushed the nation’s hardest wide cracks, culminating with a first ascent of Century Crack (5.14b), likely the hardest off-width in the world. Continue reading
Posted in Articles, Recent News, Reviews
Interview with Adam Ondra
To start the month of February, we had the special privilege of interviewing Adam Ondra in anticipation of his upcoming trip to Canada. Adam’s first stop will be at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival (VIMFF) on Monday, February 16th, followed by Adam coaching at the IFSC World Cup Camp at The Boulders in Central Saanich, BC, from February 20-22nd. Squamish Climbing Magazine thought this would be a great opportunity to check in with Adam and see how things are going this year. Adam is an absolute legend, with first ascents of some of the toughest routes and boulders in world. Here is what he had to say.
Hi Adam, thanks for taking the time to talk to us. How are things going?
Things are going just great! The start of 2015 was a bit hectic for sure as I had some exams to do at university but they are finally all done and I have a nice one month of holiday ahead. I took three weeks of rest during Christmas time, did some snowboarding and cross-country skiing, and started train again around January 2nd. It is always hard to get into the real business of climbing after a long rest but I am starting to feel a quite strong again.
Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News
