Routesetting at Climb Base 5 with Kaleb Thomas

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Kaleb in his usual stance during Western Regionals at Climb Base 5. Photo by Shane Murdoch

Although Kaleb Thomas has been a part of the BC climbing scene for a number of years, he is just now establishing his name in the Lower Mainland as a route-setter with style. Climbing for the past 10 years, Kaleb has always been drawn to route-setting. He began working at Wallnuts Climbing Centre In St. John’s Newfoundland and has now found a home at Climb Base 5, in Coquitlam, BC. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to talk to Kaleb and here is what he had to say.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Public Comment Period Ending March 23, 2015 for LNG Project in Howe Sound

For local Squamish climbers, the proposed LNG plant has been a constant source of speculation and debate. Climbers from all across the Lower Mainland have expressed their apprehension of the Woodfiber LNG project. Whether you fall on one side or another, it is very important to let your voice be heard. The public comment period for this project has been extended but will be closing on March 23rd, 2015.

So, at Squamish Climbing Magazine, we will try to make this very easy for you on a raining Friday morning. To post a public comment, please click this link that will bring you to the comment form.

Let your voice be heard. This is your time to let the Environmental Assessment Office to know you concerns.

For more information, here is a letter regarding the extension.

Posted in Articles, Recent News

Canadian Open National Bouldering Championship with Maria Celkova

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Maria Celkova competing at The Hive in 2013. Photo courtesy of Maria Celkova ©

This weekend, local climber Maria Celkova will be competing at the Canadian Open National Bouldering Competition this weekend taking place in Montreal. For the past few years, Maria has taken a continued interest in competing locally and she has placed very well in a number of competitions. Last year, she found herself competing in the Word Cup circuit for the Slovak Team and this year she will be going back for more. Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it would be good to check in with Maria as she heads to Montreal this morning.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Interview with Elan Jonas-McRae

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Elan Jonas-McRae on Lucid Dreaming (v15). Photo courtesy of Matt Haig ©

For every climbing community, there is one or two very strong climbers that tend to stay just outside the limelight. They are often not as outspoken as others and are always dedicated to their craft. For Vancouver Island, Elan Jonas-McRae is one of these climbers. Having one of the best years of his climbing career thus far, Elan is ready for anything. Some of his highlights include Force of Nature (v13/14) in Moe’s Valley, Utah, Direct North (v14), The Swarm (v14), both in Bishop, CA, and The Reckoning (v14) in Squamish, BC. He also finished the 2014 IFSC Lead World Cup season in 16th place. Needless to say, Elan has started to find his own way and he is just getting started. Squamish Magazine thought it would be a good idea to get to know Elan and here what he had to say.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Nothing in Moderation with Marc Bourdon

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Marc and Elise in Jailhouse Rock CA. (Marc Bourdon Collection ©)

Marc Bourdon has called British Columbia home for over 30 years and is no stranger to technical granite in the Sea to Sky Corridor. Marc recently made the third ascent of Sonnie Trotter’s Nothing in Moderation in Murrin Park. Originally graded 5.13c, the route features very technical slap to an ‘almost dyno’ to a very bad sloper. After a hold broke while Steve Townsend was working the route, the route has become substantially more difficult. Marc recently sent the route and we thought it best to check in with him and see what he had to say.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Recent News

Los Angeles Climbing with Damon Corso

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Isamer Bilog climbing high above the Pacific Coastline on ‘Piledriver’ (5.12b) at Boney Bluff. Photo courtesy of Damon Corso ©

Years ago I didn’t know where to go for spring break so I joined my friend Pat Nosil on a research expedition in the Los Angeles Basin. At the time, Pat was studying stick bugs out of his van and knew all the best spots for climbing and picking bugs. As we drove across Los Angeles, it soon became apparent that deep in the hills outside of the city’s reach, there were a number of great climbing areas. These areas have remained lost for years, only known to those who have gone out of their way to find them. Without a guidebook, these areas have gone under the radar, until now.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Honnold-Mania with the New York Times

Here is another expose on Alex Honnold with the New York Times. It seems in the past few months, climbing has gone more mainstream than ever and the general public cannot get over climbing without a rope.

“Fifteen miles outside Yosemite Valley, a beeping iPhone alarm awakened Alex Honnold at 4 a.m. in the white Ford Econoline van that he has called home for the last seven years. Honnold, who is 29 and one of the two or three best rock climbers on earth, sat up on his cheap foam mattress and switched on his headlamp in the darkness. The nearby Merced River made a soft rushing sound, and crickets hummed in the grass in the dry heat of June. Honnold rolled back his van’s sliding side door to greet his ponytailed friend David Allfrey, who was also 29, emerging just then from an old VW camper van parked 10 feet away”

For the full article, please click here.

Posted in Articles

Onsighting with Adam Ondra

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Adam Ondra after onsighting the show route at IFSC Climbing Camp (5.14c). Photo courtesy of Tim Schaufele ©

The following is footage of Adam Ondra at the IFSC Climbing Camp held at The Boulders in Central Saanich, BC. Adam talks about both indoor and outdoor onsighting, doing your research from the ground and some of his ethics around onsighting. The footage here is pretty rough but seemed the best way to capture the moment without taking away from the experience of others. Definitely not a quick hit before work but if you but aside some time to listen, I am sure you will find something valuable in what Adam has to say. Hope you enjoy!

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Posted in Articles, Interviews, Videos

Interview with Kelly Drager of the Calgary Climbing Centre

This weekend, Joe Rockhead’s Climbing Gym will host part four of The Open Boulder National Series, an event sanctioned by Climbing Escalade Canada. With the distance between events in Canada, it is often the case that those athletes from Western Canada are not able to attend events in the east due to time and money constraints. This weekend, however, we were lucky enough to track down Kelly Drager of the Calgary Climbing Centre who flew to Toronto yesterday.

Kelly has long been an active member of the Calgary climbing scene and has been a competitor numerous times at climbing events held in the lower mainland. She also works as a Sports Dietician at the Canadian Sport Institute Calgary. Here is what Kelly had to say about the event this weekend and the climbing scene in Calgary.

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Kelly Drager at the Tour De Bloc. Photo Courtesy of Kelly Drager ©

Hi Kelly, how is it going? Getting reading to travel to Toronto?

Great! Yes…definitely looking forward to supporting Joe Rockhead’s National Series event.

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Posted in Articles, Interviews

Jeremy Blumel ‘Give Squamish Students a Chance to Climb’

Local climbing superstar and teacher Jeremy Blumel always has something interesting to say in his bi-monthly online column at The Squamish Chief. In his most recent article, he calls for the kids to climb. Let us know what you think!

‘Just outside of Victoria is the small community of Saanich, B.C It has small clusters of houses surrounded by rural farmland and narrow winding roads reminding you of that accidental trip off the highway where you took an exit just to explore, because you had a good feeling about it and it served you a little detour adventure.

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