If the provinces of Spain would form a family of siblings, Catalunya would be considered the “gifted” one. The landscape is varied, abundant and beautiful in every way. And we’ve all seen the videos of Sharma and Ondra shouting on their latest “mega-projects” on picturesque, streaked limestone cliffs. It’s the coolest thing in sport climbing, and rightfully so. The list of areas known and unknown in Catalunya is massive, requiring two full sized “select” guide books co-authored by the one and only Dani Andrada. Flipping through the guides is almost torturous, your first thought (no matter how much time you’ve allotted for your trip) is “I need more time”. But if you’ve managed to make it, don’t fret, Spanish life is easy, tranquilo.
Sonnie Trotter, Spanish Climbing, and ‘Estado Critico’
Two weeks ago, Sonnie Trotter sent Estado Critico (9a) on a trip to Spain with his family. With a finger injury before the trip, he was unsure of what the trip would look like in terms of climbing. At the end of their trip, Sonnie and his family returned to Cornudella and he sent a climb he had tried 16 years earlier, named L-ments (8b+). We had a chance to chat with Sonnie just after he sent Estado Critico. Here is what he had to say.
Sonnie and his family en route. Photo: Sonnie Trotter ©
‘All the 13’s in Squamish’ with Steve Townsend
A few months back, we heard that Steve Townsend had a goal this past summer to complete all the 5.13’s in Squamish. For those who don’t know Steve Townsend, he is one of those climbers who throws everything he’s got at a goal, climbing or otherwise. Knowing Steve and his work ethic, we knew this was very possible. Although not exactly what Steve set out to do, we thought it best to check in with Steve about his progress and his plans for this year.
Here is what he had to say.
Steve Townsend doing what he loves. Photo courtesy of Steve Townsend ©
Review: The Unveiling at Ground Up Climbing
On a rainy Friday night in Squamish, the Squamish Academy of Music played host to The Unveiling by Ground up Climbing Centre. Catering to a packed house, the event was an information session and membership drive all in one. With good food and drink, the event was surely not to be missed.
Jason ‘Singer’ Smith Talks Kyrgyzstan
In the year 2000, Jason “Singer” Smith, John Dickey, Tommy Caldwell, and Beth Rodden went on an expedition to Kyrgyzstan to climb a number of alpine peaks in the Pamir-Alai mountain range. What they didn’t know is that they would be taken hostage by Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan (IMU).
I often think back to this story, meeting the characters throughout the years, and seeing how each of them deal with this traumatic event individually. For those who are interested, Jason Singer, or Jason ‘Singer’ Smith talks of his experience here in a podcast by Mysterious Universe. Please scroll to minute 30.28 for Jason’s interview and lasts about an hour. The interview itself is sometimes catered towards a non-climbing crowd but this story is really worth a listen.
Antihydral: Skin Doping for Climbers
My hands sweat a lot. Just thinking about my project, I can make beads of sweat appear on my fingertips. On my first trip to Font, I saw Klem Loskot slip off a warm up I’d just shellacked. He turned to me and said “You have fat wet fingers no?”. He was right. I did have fat wet fingers! Given my affliction, when a magic cream from Germany called Antihydral first surfaced on the climbing scene, rumored to stop skin from sweating, I was all over it. Using a chemical to alter my physiology in order to improve my performance at a sport? Sounds like a tried and true methodology to me. Sign me up!
The New Yorker ‘Selling Rock Climbing’
Interesting article by The New Yorker as climbing (and corporate advertising) take over the fitness world.
“Kevin Jorgeson spent the better part of a month swaddled in Gore-Tex in a tent suspended twelve hundred feet above the Yosemite Valley floor, eating dry salami sandwiches and bathing with baby wipes. It’s no wonder, then, that he didn’t own a suit until recently. But on a cold night in late January, two weeks after completing his historic nineteen-day ascent up the sheer rock face of Yosemite’s Dawn Wall, Jorgeson was ensconced in the cluttered back room of the Brooklyn Boulders climbing gym, discussing the finer points of men’s tailoring. “I’m thirty and I didn’t own a suit until last night,” he said, grinning. “I’m gonna rock that shit.” The suit in question—a blue Ralph Lauren number from Barneys—was a sign of how much Jorgeson’s life had changed since he and his partner, Tommy Caldwell, completed perhaps the most difficult climb in the world. It was a coming-of-age moment for the sport of climbing as well, and many in the outdoor industry are hoping that the pair’s feat proves to be the moment the sport breaks out of its crunchy bubble and into the broader consciousness.”
Read the rest of the article by Clare Malone here at The New Yorker website.
Jeremy Blumel ‘Missing in Action: Climbing Gear Vanishes’
For those who missed Jeremy Blumel’s article in the Chief last week, we thought we would post it here. One of Jeremy’s previous articles got a lot of attention on Google News and also was published in the printed edition of the Squamish Chief. This column focuses on the los
This week’s column is a little departure from the big questions banging around within the topic of climbing, and instead focuses on my own climbing and the idea of community spirit gone awry.
Will Stanhope ‘What I love about Trad Climbing’
For those interested, here is a link to Will Stanhope’s latest blog post courtesy of Arcteryx.
“When I was eighteen I landed a job as a “Nature Guide” at the Capilano Suspension Bridge. It was the most relaxing summer job I’ve ever had. While my other friends were tediously perched on a ladder painting houses or straining with a wheel-barrow load of gravel, my job was simply to saunter around the park in an old-fashioned fisherman’s outfit, pointing out the hemlocks and cedars to the tourists. On my down time I’d hide underneath the swinging bridge, eat ice cream and stare at the swirling green water of Capilano River and daydream about rock climbing.
For full article, please click here.
Sean McColl and Domen Skofic on Warming Up
Warming up properly is essential to any climber, whether they are getting ready for competition or going outside. A poor warm up schedule can lead to an early pump, a negative performance, and even injury. Here is what Sean and Domen had to say about their warm up during competition. Again, these videos are quite detailed but I think everyone could take something away from what these competitors had to say.