SCBC: Triple Header Interview with Paul Ledet

This weekend The Boulders climbing gym, located in Saanich, BC, will play host to The Triple Header. The Triple Header is a sanctioned Sport Climbing BC event that will host competitors in all three disciplines: Bouldering, Difficulty, and Speed. As with any competition, a lot of work goes into the event behind the scenes. Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it might be cool to shift the lens and get the perspective of someone on the inside of it. Paul Ledet is the Head Judge for the event this weekend. Paul has also been a high school teacher in the Saanich district for 22 years. Here is what he had to say.

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Paul Ledet (right) at Vail World Cup with Johannes Altner (left).

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Tour De Bloc 12: Interview with Jason Holowach

Jason Holowach is one of Canada’s best indoor climbers. Jason has been competing on the comp scene since 2002 where he took everyone by surprise with his technique and strength. In 2006, he took first place on the podium during the Canadian Bouldering Championships and was the second Canadian to ever reach a semi-finals in the World Cup series of Bouldering. Jason is the owner of Grip It climbing gym in Saskatoon, SK. Last week at The Hive, he came second place only by one attempt on problem #4 after a fantastic performance in Finals. Squamish Climbing Magazine tried to catch up with Jason before the Tour De Bloc contest this weekend in Edmonton, AB.

_DSC4107Photo courtesy of Ken Chow

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New Climbing Gym in Squamish

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Throughout the years, Squamish locals have always wrestled with what to do in the months of rain that persist over the winter. From the home wall to the unethical historical sculpting of outdoor spaces (see the back of the Cacodemon boulder for more details), the Squamish local will always find a way to keep going during the monsoon.

In recent years, Squamish has been home to the Grand Wall Bouldering Cooperative. This project was originally spearheaded by Tyson Braun and Jeremy Smith. Their vision was to open an indoor climbing space that is shared among its members. The Coop continues to flourish in Downtown Squamish and accommodates approximately 150 members per year. As I am sure anyone will tell you, this gym does not run itself! Through the hands of a few leaders in the community and dedicated volunteers, this indoor space keeps everyone cranking in the winter.

As the city of Squamish continues to grow, so does the vision from the year-round climbing community. Spearheaded by Lauren Watson and Adrian Blachut, a new commercial climbing gym is already in the works. Ground Up Climbing Centre is slated to open in September of 2015 and the community is already abuzz.

Opening a new gym is not an easy task. In fact, it takes a lot of tenacity from those who have a bigger vision and Squamish Climbing Magazine had a chance to catch up with Lauren Watson to get the scoop on what is in the works.

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Getting Ready for the Tour De Bloc at the Hive

dustin-curtis Dustin Curtis (right) and Andreas Lerch (left). Photo courtesy of David Tam ©

For those of you who do not know, Tour De Bloc 12 is coming to The Hive this weekend. These comps take a fair amount of organization and preparation the month before and I thought it would be great to check in with the setting team to see what they are up to this time around. Here is our interview with head routesetter for The Hive, Dustin Curtis.

Tour de Bloc is taking place at the hive for the second year in a row. A lot of planning and organization goes into getting an event like this off the ground. Where does the process start for you and the team?

The process usually starts about 2 months before the competition, the key individuals involved in organizing the event will meet and hash out details like; schedule of day of (the times of each rounds and the like,) preliminary T-Shirt design, sponsors, things like that. Usually this will consist of The Hive’s Marketing and Community Director, DeeDee Ryan, The General Manager Shayne Russell, The Assistant Manager, Kate Bell, as well as Andreas Lerch and myself, representing the Route Setting Crew. We also discuss how many volunteers we’ll need for the course of that week, anything else that goes beyond regular gym function for the week before the comp.

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Climb and Conquer with Joseph Wong

More often and not, when you are out and about in the local climbing hotspots, you see one or two (or ten!) people wearing Climb and Conquer T-shirts. I had no idea what was behind these t-shirts until I did a little research of my own. Climb and Conquer Society Canada is a registered charity, run entirely by volunteers located in Vancouver, BC. They support youth (age 4-18) from disadvantaged backgrounds to build healthy self-esteem, relationships and leadership skills through rock climbing and caring mentorships. Currently, they service the Greater Vancouver area. The person behind this great idea is Joseph Wong and I thought it would be a great idea to catch up with him and give you the insight on what is going on.

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Interview with Sean McColl

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For those of you who follow international competition climbing, Sean McColl needs no introduction. Sean is a professional rock climber from North Vancouver, BC with deep roots to the North Shore climbing scene. Over the past few years, Sean’s focus has been on competition climbing, as Sean lives and trains in Chambery, France for most of the year. Sean may be best known for his ascent of Dreamcatcher, where rumour has it that Sean did the route a second time for the camera, but Sean continues to push himself outside, with ascents of Meadowlark Leon Sit (v14), Top Sirloin (v14), and Too Many Martinis (v14) this year as well as onsighting his first 5.14a. During the recent 2014 World Cup season, Sean ended up on the podium eight times and ended the season 2nd overall. Squamish Climbing Magazine had a chance to catch up with Sean before he takes a well deserved break from his training regime.

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Bi-monthly Column by Jeremy Blumel

Recently, I was trolling The Chief, the local newspaper in Squamish, and came across an article written by Jeremy Blumel. For those of you who don’t know Jeremy, he is pretty much one of the best guys around. He is a certified Elementary School teacher with the British Columbia College of Teachers, an Association of Canadian Mountain Guides certified Full Rock Guide and a graduate of Emily Carr College of Art and Design’s Traditional Animation program. Lets just say that before roping up on any multi-pitch, I always make sure I have Jeremy’s phone number with me.

The most recent article written by Blumel is a quip on the upcoming election in Squamish and the effect this may (or may not) have on climbers. I caught up with Jeremy to fill in the details.

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Interview with Marc Andre Leclerc

Marc-Andrew Leclerc is a rock climber who lives in Squamish, BC. Known for his first ascents in the Fraser Valley and his spot on slab climbing skills, Squamish Climbing Magazine had a chance to catch up with him before he left on his second trip to Patagonia.

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SO MARC, Where are yo headed for your next adventure?

I’m headed down to Argentina in early December. I’m going to spend some time alone in the North of the country, in the province of Mendoza, to see how I react to altitude, then  I will head south, passing through Bariloche on the way to Southern Patagonia and the Fitz Roy area. I’m pretty psyched to climb in the Torres again particularly.

Over the past few years, you have made a push into alpine climbing. What made you want to expand you climbing repetiore?

Well, I actually started scrambling and peak bagging when I was about 11 years old, around the same time I was into indoor and competitive climbing. I got into rock climbing outside and bouldering later on when I was about 14 because I needed to learn the skills to climb more technical mountains. I’ve pretty much always climbed in the alpine to some degree, but took a break when I moved to Squamish and basically only rock climbed and partied for a while. I got back into the mountains pretty hard again in the summer of 2013, I just needed to have wild adventures again and hanging around town wasn’t cutting it.

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Issue #1

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