Two weeks ago, Calgary-based climber Evan Hau became the first Canadian to climb 5.15a after completing the first ascent of his route Honour and Glory (5.15a) at the Colliseum in Echo Canyon, Canmore, AB. Not only was this event a great step forward for Canadian climbing, it also highlighted the hard work and dedication of a low profile climber in the Bow Valley.

Evan Hau has long been a active member of the Bow Valley climbing community, with a focus on projecting hard routes, first at Acephale’s upper wall and then spreading to various walls across the Canadian Rockies. With multiple 5.14 ascents under his belt, including Bunda De Fora (5.14d), Kinder Surprise (5.14c), and Prime Time (5.14c), as well as La Esencia de la Resistencia (5.14c) and Seleccio Natural (5.14d) in Spain, Evan has dedicated himself to his craft with hard work and perseverance. Over the past few years, Evan has made changes to his work life to make room for his climbing lifestyle and maximizing his time outdoors. Although he would argue that he does not train specifically, he will often climb multiple days in a row and gain strength by dedicating himself to projects at his maximum ability. In a sentence, Evan tries hard, He tries often, and he enjoys it every time.

We had a chance to catch up with Evan last week and here is what he had to say.

Evan Hau on Honour and Glory (5.15a). Photo by Jeff Lewis ©

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We are very excited to be a part of the 3rd Annual Canmore Climbing Festival that will take place this weekend on Saturday, August 12, 2017.

One of the speakers this year is American alpinist Josh Wharton. Usually flying under the radar, Josh is one of America’s top all around climbers with a specialty in Alpine climbing including first ascents of the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango Tower and The Flame in Pakistan, as well as a three time winner of the Ouray Ice Festival Mixed Climbing Competition (2009, 2010, 2011) and multiple first ascents in the Black Canyon. As a professional climber, Josh works hard at his craft and has a multi-discipline approach to climbing. We had a chance to chat with Josh before the festival and here is what he had to say.

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With the 2017 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy kicking off things today, we thought it would be a great idea to check in with one of our favourite Arc’teryx athletes, Jonathan Siegrist.

Over the past year, Jonathan has been making headlines with a few big sends and notably his accomplishment of Pachamama (5.15a). A regular at the festival as well as the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival, Jonathan is the quintessential professional athlete and always inspiring. Jonathan will be taking part in Squamish Exposed as well as teaching an advanced sport climbing clinic this weekend. The following interview is a follow up to our interview with Jonathan in February of this year.

Jonathan Siegrist in Squamish. Photo courtesy of Tom Wright ©

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On Wednesday, April 19, The Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will feature Steve Swenson, American aplinist, as he explores the nature of high altitude, alpine climbing, the complexities of remote expeditions, the geo political workings of Kasmir, as well as his passion for the cultural communities in this region of the world. The presentation will be followed by a Q & A where four experts will bring their unique perspectives to the Kashmir Conflict and how it effects climbers and trekkers.

With a number of ascents under his belt, including the second ascent of the North Face of Mount Alberta, in 1981, the first ascent of the Northeast Face of Kwangde Nup and Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat in 1989 and 2004 respectively, and oxygen-free ascents of K2 and Everest and Steve Swenson is no stranger to adventure. Now retired from Engineering but still climbing, Steve has taken the time to reflect back on his experiences in the Karokoram, as well as the changes that have taken place in the region over the past four decades. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Steve before his presentation on Wednesday and here is what he had to say.

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This weekend, Edmonton, Alberta will play host to the 2017 Canadian Open Bouldering Championships. With all the strong competitors coming out of the woodworks to compete this year, we had a number of people who we could have interviewed before the competition. Sticking out above the rest was Edmonton-local and prairie crusher Andrew Funk. After graduating high school, Andrew took his stoke outside and travelled around Europe sport climbing in limestone paradise. After sending his first 5.14a (Mal de Isla), Andrew made his way home only to find himself back on the road. Now attending the University of British Columbia in his first year of Engineering, Andrew has found a home on the Hive Climbing team in Vancouver and has pushed himself this year under the tutelage of Jeff Thompson and Christian Core. We thought it would be awesome to check in with Andrew as he gets ready to fly home. Here is what he had to say.

Andrew Funk. Photo by Shane Murdoch ©

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