With the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy taking place this weekend, we thought we would check in with Jonathan Siegrist about his trip to Squamish and future plans. Jonathan has always been a huge inspiration in the sport climbing world, from his recent ascent of Biographie (5.15a) to his sport climbing expeditions across the globe. Jonathan is truly dedicated to the climbing life and seems to really value not only the future of the sport, but also its past. Here is what he had to say about his upcoming ‘Advanced Redpointing Clinic’ on Saturday and his participation in this weekend’s event.
Jonathan Siegrist on Chikane. Photo by Bear Cam Media.
Thanks for taking the time to talk to us. How is it going?
Yes Tim, my pleasure man. It’s going great. Stoked to be back in Canada.
Is this your first time here in Squamish?
No, I have been through Squamish several times, but only got lucky with weather one of those… and made great use of it with a day on the Grand Wall and some rad sport climbing.
Can you tell us a bit about your role this weekend and what an event like this means to you?
So this weekend I’ll be teaching a clinic on Advanced Redpoint climbing on Saturday, and otherwise I’ll be supporting the Arcteryx family and enjoying the Academy. This event means a lot because Arcteryx is my main sponsor and they have been so supportive to my pursuit now for 7 years, so to be invited up to their home turf and to represent the Bird is an honor.
Front Range touch down. Photo courtesy of Bear Cam Media ©
Prior to this, it looks like you were in Ceuse, France. How was it going back and not having the pressure of Biography?
Wow, so awesome! I found a new project of course but it was never as stressful as walking up that hill with Biographie beta streaming through my head.
When you are in Ceuse, where do you stay?
I stay at the Grange Aux Loup and it’s incredible! I stayed there last year too. They are such great hosts. It’s just across the street from the trailhead. I love not getting in the car for days and just walking to and from the crag, cheverie and the gite only.
Back in Ceuse. Photo courtesy of Jonathan Siegrist ©
And Ceuse pizza, red sauce or white sauce?
I always go red sauce but maybe I’m missing something?
The feeling of sending Biographie must have been up there. Are there other ascents or first ascents that really stick out for you regardless of their grade?
Yes, for sure. When I finished the first repeat of Tommy Caldwell’s super high altitude ‘Honeymoon is Over’ (5.13+ V) on the Diamond of Longs Peak it was an incredible feeling. It had always been a dream of mine to climb this multi-pitch route and after some weeks of preparation I fired it with my Dad belaying. I’m not afraid to admit that I have cried after heart wrenching ascents and on this one I balled pretty hard. Very memorable.
Part of your gig is really a dedication to climbing outside. How do you stay fit when climbing outside on a regular basis?
Well I’m in the process of changing up my training / projecting / traveling schedule to more of a 1 month training followed by 2 or 3 month climbing and then repeat kind of set up as opposed to a super intense and long training winter and then just 8 months of straight climbing. I think it will help me continue to improve and stay motivated. But, in the past, I’ve just tried to leave the crag exhausted and not let heinous weather keep me from climbing for too many days in a row – i.e. move on!
Garage training. Photo courtesy of Jonathan Siegrist ©
Your routine at the crag is to do a ton of routes AFTER working your project. Can you tell us a bit about this strategy and how it adds to your climbing?
Yes, I’m a big fan of the burly ‘warm down’ sessions. Never on the first day back after a rest, but going into a rest day I always try to beat myself up at the crag and really earn it. The reality of super hard projecting is that you are always saving yourself for the redpoint so you naturally get weaker slowly. I try to counteract that by going really hard before a rest day (or double rest day) if I can. Skin is the main issue, so usually after I’m done trying the project I will tape up immediately and then continue to punch out some evening laps.
I have to ask about your route Algorithm at the Fins in Idaho. One of my favourite videos! What was your time like there and what brought you to that cliff?
Cool man! I absolutely love that area. Actually, I’m planning a return there next month and I am so so stoked. Wow, I could talk about my experiences there quite a bit. It’s super remote and every year for the last 3 years I’ve put in some time bolting. Usually solo. It’s so cool. Just my dog Zeke and I up there. I would go and bolt as soon as the cliff saw shade and then clean and work the routes on mini-trax. Night skies are so clear and quiet. Mornings are warm and very mellow. It’s a super super special place and I really can’t wait to get back again for what will probably be my last trip there sadly… time to move on to new cliffs.
Do you ever have periods in your climbing year that you don’t have a project and just climb around?
Usually there are a few weeks of the year here and there, yes. Sometimes after a big send or at the end of a trip I will often take the level down a notch and just enjoy myself. I love those times actually, but I put tons of pressure on myself to always be performing and so it’s more like a reward. If I let it go for too long I would get antsy, I’m kind of insane like that.
Part of the summer is avoiding the hot temperatures. Where do you hang out when its hot?
Usually Wyoming and the Colorado Alpine are my summer playgrounds. This year I am switching modes to 6 weeks of pure bouldering in Rocky Mountain National Park. I’m a week in and it’s been awesome so far. Learning a lot.
Escaping summer in Wyoming. Photo courtesy of Jonathan Siegrist ©
What planning goes into giving structure to your year in terms of goals?
Tons. I structure all of my events, my traveling and of course training around the best season for a particular objective. Every year, I usually get away with a few surprise harder routes that I didn’t ‘plan’ for, but for the most part it’s the structure and discipline that empowers me mentally and of course physically to send.
Outside of climbing, what do you do for balance?
I love to see live music. I go out a few times a month when I can – I really love it. I have been searching for some intellectual stimulation too though, and since I got back from Spain I have been taking online Spanish language courses which has been awesome and a great challenge.
Not the greatest temperatures, but how long will you be in Squamish or Canada and will you have time to check out any climbing while you are here?
Hopefully I will have day to break away and do some bouldering but mostly I am here for the event and to spend some quality time with the Arcteryx crew. I’m guessing that I will be inspired to do another summer around Western Canada though… maybe next year. Definitely a few life-list routes around here for me!
Photo courtesy of Bear Cam Media ©
Thanks again for your time and I hope you have a great trip here in Squamish.
Yeah cheers Tim! Looking forward to it.
Jonathan Siegrist is sponsored by Arc’teryx, La Sportiva, Metolius, Maxim Ropes, and Smith Optics. See his website here.
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Siegrist ©
Festivities for the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy start on Friday, July 10th and run until Sunday July 12th. For full schedule, please check out the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy website.
