This weekend, Project Climbing Cloverdale will be hosting the 2017 BC Bouldering Provincials sanctioned by Sport Climbing BC. With the influx of Albertan’s onto the BC climbing scene, we thought it would be a great idea to interview Canmore-based climber Becca Frangos.
Becca Frangos on Endless Summer (5.13d). Photo by Sara Frangos ©
Born and raised in Canmore, Alberta, Becca is no stranger to the competition climbing scene. She was the Youth Bouldering and Lead National Champion in 2015, the Open National Lead Champion in 2015 and participated in the Lead World Cup Circuit in 2016. Graduating high school in 2015, Becca, along with her sister Sara Frangos and good friend Andrew Funk, sought out a year long climbing adventure through Europe. Sending her first 5.13d during the trip(Labyrinth in Kalymnos), Becca came home and made an ascent of the infamous Endless Summer (5.13d) in her own backyard. Currently attending the University of Victoria, Becca has made The Boulders in Saanich her home gym as she trains for the 2017 World Cup Circuit. Here is what she had to say.
Becca Frangos. Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
Hi Becca, thanks for taking the time to chat with us! First off, you are competing this weekend in the BC Provincials. How has it been for you competing in BC this year?
It’s been really fun competing in BC this year, lots of Albertan climbers around my age have moved to BC so it’s been really great being reunited with everyone at comps. With the exception of the first competition, I got off to a bit of a rough start. My body was still adapting to my new strength training plan and my mental game wasn’t in the best place, but now I feel like things are starting to come together and I am feeling strong mentally and physically.
Are there any notable differences between the BC competition scene and the Alberta competition scene?
The style of route setting is the biggest notable difference. I would say most of the comps in Alberta at least when I was still competing there were slightly more of a straightforward style of setting, not too many “world cup style” boulders but that has for sure changed across all provinces over the past year or so, so I wouldn’t say there is too much difference now.
2017 Boulderhouse Comp. Photo by Ken Chow ©
This is your first year away from Canmore and at University in Victoria. How has the change been and how has it affected your climbing?
It is yes. I would definitely say it’s been a challenge trying to balance a full course load of first year science classes and training but I wouldn’t say my climbing has suffered in the slightest. If anything having an incredibly busy schedule makes me train harder because the small amount of time during the day I that have in the gym, I try and make the most of and stay focused. What’s been especially great about moving to Victoria is all the new opportunities that have come into play. I have been training with lots of strong female climbers including American superstar Delaney Miller, which has been amazing and I have wicked climbing training plan from Andrew Wilson as well as a strength conditioning program from Chris Hinton out of the Pacific Institute of Sports Excellence.
Can you tell us a bit about your strength program and how it has helped your climbing?
I’m not going to go into super specific details but basically the program focuses on full body strength and muscles that I don’t predominately use while climbing. I found it has really helped with my pulling power as well as my explosive lower body power for the more dynamic boulders and routes.
Training in Switzerland. Photo by Kimanda Jarzebiak ©
Do you find when training strength that you lose a bit of your climbing ability for a certain period of time?
Yes for sure, this is partially why the beginning of comp season didn’t start out so great. It takes time for your body to get used to working its muscles in different ways. It’s similar to when first time climbers get blisters on their hands all the time until their skin adapts to the roughness of climbing holds.
For those who don’t know. When did you start climbing and how did it all come about?
Sara and I started climbing in 2008/2009 at the old climbing gym in Canmore, The Vsion. My parents noticed an ad in the paper for climbing camps so we thought we would give it a try. After a few summers of camps and casual climbing the owner and head coach of The Vsion, Dung Nguyen took us under his wing and got us to join the competitive team. Dung was my first coach, and he was the one who ignited my passion for the sport, and things just evolved from there!
Andrew Funk with Frangos sisters. Photo courtesy of Andrew Funk ©
You have a twin sister. What is it like growing up with a sibling who shares the same passion of climbing and what has it been like being away from each other?
Having a twin in and of itself is such a special thing, sharing a passion is even more unique. Sara and I have always had an incredibly close relationship and climbing has only brought us closer. Before this year, the longest time Sara and I had spent apart in 19 years was 3 weeks so it’s been tough living across the country from her but I couldn’t be happier or more proud of her that’s she’s doing so well in Ontario.
Prior to entering university, you and your sister, along with Andrew Funk, took a substantial amount of time off to explore the sport climbing in Europe. Can you tell us about the trip and some of the experiences that stick out?
Since about grade 10 Sara and Andrew and I had planned to go to Europe after graduating high school. After we all made the National team in 2015 we decided The Youth World Championships in Arco, Italy was a perfect starting destination for our trip. Once the comp ended we headed to Greece (Kalymnos) for a month and Spain (Rodellar and Siurana) for two months thereafter. I went home in December to return and train for comp season and Sara and Andrew decided to stay in Chullia, Spain for an extra three weeks. I’m not sure if there was one specific moment during the trip that stuck out more than others but the entire experience of travelling with my two best friends doing a sport that I love so much was unforgettable, oh and the rest days on the beaches in Greece weren’t so bad 😉
Becca on Labyrinth (5.13d). Photo by Sara Frangos ©
This summer, you focused on a route Endless Summer (hard!) which was first completed by you and then your sister. What was it like being back in Canmore after a long time away?
It was really nice to be home after being away for four months. As much as I loved Europe being away for such an extended time period I really missed my parents and friends and the trip really made me realize how lucky I am to have grown up in Canmore. It’s truly is a special town.
Endless Summer (5.13d). Photo by Sara Frangos ©
Did you still have the psych to get after it when you got back home?
When I got home from Europe I was as psyched as ever to get back on Endless Summer. After being so close to sending the summer before and ticking off a 13d in Kalymnos I knew it was possible for me, I just had to be patient and wait for the right moment when I could really tap into the flow on the route and climb it perfectly. I managed to send Endless about a week before leaving for Europe to compete in the Lead World Cups, it was just the perfect amount of confidence I needed before the trip. Soon after Sara followed suit which made the send that much more memorable
What was it like growing up in Canmore?
Growing up in Canmore is incredible. The community is filled with so many like minded, kind, caring and supportive people who all love the outdoors. Part of the reason I am the person I am today is because of all the amazing athlete role models I’ve been surrounded by since such a young age.
I have to ask about your family because you guys seem very close. Who’s idea was it to build a climbing cave in the backyard and why are there so many guitars in your house?
I wouldn’t be where I am today climbing wise or in life without the support of my parents. They have put countless hours into driving to comps, volunteering etc. that really shows their dedication to us and the sport and I am so so thankful for that. I believe it was my Dad’s idea to build a climbing cave in our backyard and it is such an amazing little training space not just for my family but lots of other climbers in the community. As for the guitar situation, you’re right there are quite a few. My entire family plays in some way shape or form and I guess we have just accumulated a vast number over the years…Sara and I each took one to University and I think there are still three left at home haha.
Becca in Rodellar. Photo by Andrew Funk ©
Will you spend the summer in Canmore again and what goals do you have moving forward?
I will be in Victoria until mid May then once Lead Nationals are done at the end of that month I will come home to Canmore. My main training goal for this season is to make semi-finals at multiple Lead World Cups. If I make the National Team, I will spend all of July and potentially a bit of August in Europe competing however I will spend June and most of August working in Canmore, hanging out with the fam and outdoor climbing. As far as longer term goals, I do have my sights set on Tokyo 2020, however, my main goal is just to keep improving my results on the World Cup Circuit and see how that evolves. As far as outdoor climbing, I would love to add a few 5.14’s to my send list as well as some more challenging multi-pitches.
I noticed that both you and your sister always climb with a helmet. Can you tell us a bit about that choice and why you do it?
When we went on climbing trips when we were younger our parents would always make us wear one. To be completely honest I wasn’t always on board with it, I thought it looked “uncool” and thought they got in the way. However with the new technology of climbing helmets they’re super light and I would say I feel uncomfortable not wearing one now. Rockfall doesn’t happen often nor does hitting your head on rock after a bad fall but I would rather be safe than sorry. Brain Injuries suck!
Finally, What are you looking forward to the most this weekend?
Having fun and sticking some dynos…hopefully 😉
Thanks Becca! Best of luck this weekend and for the rest of the year!
Training at The Boulders in Saanich. Photo courtesy of Becca Frangos ©
