I first met Ben Harnden in a Dentville house during a rainy day in Squamish, BC. It was the beginning of spring and the climbers had started to roll back to Squamish after a wet winter. Ben and I were both coming to terms with the idea of ‘communal living’ in a house full of climbers. If there is one thing you can say about Ben, it is that he will make you find the beauty in any place. That summer, we spent our days climbing in the forest, skim-boarding down on the spit and hanging out by the fire on the river. Ben was not just in love with the climbing in Squamish, he was in love with Squamish itself and was ready to share it with anyone who was willing.
Ben Harnden on Family Man (5.14b). Photo by Thomas Burden ©
Ben Harnden is arguably one of Canada’s strongest all-around climbers. With the third ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d) and multiple ascents of hard traditional lines like The Bull (5.14 R), The Gunslinger (5.13d R), and Loc-Nar (5.13d R) at Top-shelf, Ben has established himself as level-headed strongman with hands and feet that float up any wall. Originally from Kelowna, BC, Ben was introduced to the world of climbing through a youth camp in Banff followed by getting a pass at the local climbing gym and then later testing out his skills at Skaha Provincial Park. From there, Ben fell in love with climbing, travelling all over the world to find the greatest stone. This spring, on the tails of his first trip to the USA, Ben made the second ascent of Sonnie Trotter’s ‘Family Man (5.14b) while visiting the Okanagan and has now landed back in Squamish to enjoy the summer. We had a chance to catch up with Ben to chat about climbing and other things and here is what he had to say.
Ben in Australia on Journey through Nicaragua (5.13c). Photo by Jai Critchley ©
Hi Ben! Congratulations on Family Man! How did it feel to get back on this rig after being on the road?
It’s great to finish off a project and always fun to do a hard trad line, so yeah good vibes on that. After a long climbing trip, I feel in good shape, the timing was good and the conditions were great in the Okanagan.
Can you describe some of the beta changes you had to make to send this thing?
I took some big whippers while trying to send the route and learned a lot about being solid on some hard moves. Being a shorter climber, I often make my own beta on many of the climbs I do. The way I climbed Family Man was much different than Sonnie (Trotter).
You have always really connected with the Okanagan. What is so special about the area and why do you love the climbing there?
The Okanagan is a very special place indeed! The environment is very unique and it was a great place to grow up. The sage and pine infused air is so nice. Being a beach bum there is very fine as well. Many of my early climbs were in the hills of Okanagan Mountain Park and the Skaha Bluffs. It’s a great place to be!
You just got back from your first trip to the USA. How did it feel to finally cross the border and check out some of the classic areas like Smith Rocks, OR and Bishop, CA?
The USA was fun, easy road tripping and a lifetime of rock all over the place. Very stoked to spend much more time in the hills of the USA. Travelling with my partner, Lan Yao, in a 1987 Toyota van was a real dream. All the areas we went I am looking forward to going back to. Being the first time for me was rad, I had some big days climbing every thing I saw, and then crashing and burning, so I had to learn to pace myself to get some projects done and still see and try a lot!
Soaking it up in Bishop, CA. Photo courtesy of Ben Harnden ©
A lot of people find life on the road a little difficult. How did you handle being on the road for four months?
Life on the road is not so difficult. I have spent much longer times living out of a backpack and tent, which is great and free, but living in a van feels easy in comparison.
Ben on Haroun and the Sea of Stories (v12). Photo courtesy of Ben Harnden ©
How was your motivation moving from area to area?
We went to four different spots in four months so we could get to know the area more and people who were there at the time. It was nice the settle into an area and learn the style before moving on.
Ben on Diaphanous Sea (v12). Photo courtesy of Ben Harnden ©
For those readers who don’t know a lot about you, how did you first get into climbing?
I started climbing by going to a youth camp around Banff and Canmore when I was an early teen. After that camp, I discovered the indoor climbing world of ‘The Crux Climbing Gym in Kelowna. There, I met and climbed with with many climbers in the Okanagan and the Rockies. My first time in Squamish was in the summer of 2002 and soon after that decided to spend half of the year in Squamish every year, and eventually I just ended up staying.
What do you think is so cool about Squamish and the community surrounding it?
The locals in Squamish are great! So many characters. I have been lucky to have spent most of my 20’s in and around Squamish and seeing some real great climbers and rad cliffs and boulders.
Ben Harden on ‘Silent Menace aka Smell the Glove (5.14c)’. Photo courtesy of Ben Ditto ©
I want to talk a little about some of your ascents in Squamish and the first of which is Dreamcatcher. You made the third ascent of Dream catcher after projecting the rig for a pretty long time. How was the process for you and how did it feel to finish this process?
I spent about five months on Dreamcatcher before I sent, not so long if I think of all the out of town work I did that summer. In between attempts, I was painting high voltage BC Hydro towers around Chilliwack BC, a real serious industrial climbing gig. I played on the route a handful of times the previous summer but not seriously. It ended up being a real head game to climb Dreamcatcher but felt like a breeze when I did send. I was glad to move on from that. It was fun to find my own beta on a few of the crux’s!
Were you burnt out from projecting after such a long time climbing on one thing?
I wasn’t burnt out after Dreamcatcher, it all fell into place in good time. Every attempt I had, I always made progress. I also put a lot of work into working that summer, so I could travel to Australia and climb in the grampians for the winter. That was one of the best climbing trips I have ever been on.
Journey through Nicaragua (5.13c). Photo by Jai Critchley ©
What was so special about the Australia?
The kangaroo steak and splitter orange stone…so great! Camping was perfect and a strong international scene to keep the motivation rolling on. Plus, my partner Lan was there, camping and enjoying the amazing stars and real nice sunsets.
Ben on Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in Arapiles. Photo by Jai Critchley ©
Any lines that stick out above the rest?
Any route on the Taipan Wall is ten stars! Punks in the Gym (5.14a) stands out, a classic with so much history and very technical, and of course, some outstanding bouldering right there. In the Grampians, there is some of the best free climbing I have ever seen. The only problem is, it is on the other side of the world!
Snakes on the Train (5.14a). Photo by Jai Critchley ©
You have also had a few traditional ascents go way under the radar, including the first ascent of The Gunslinger (5.14 r), the second ascent of The Bull (5.14b r), and your x-wing crack (5.14 r). Can you tells us a bit about these lines?
Hmmmm, do you like to be scared? Then all of these are for you! Yes, a great way to get the heart pumping fast on hard moves above naturally protected cliffs. All of those routes held my attention and imagination and will do so for future climbers. Squamish has so many rad traditional lines and there are so many more to climb.
Ben on The Bull (5.14b r). Photo courtesy of Thomas Burden ©
Okay, I’ll let you get off easy with that one but why do you think a lot of your ascents go unnoticed or at least not as noticed as some of the other climbers out there climbing just as hard?
I would say the lack of self promotion may have been part of that. It’s nice just to climb and not get caught up in all the hoops and that stuff. Less spray may be good for the sport. That being said, I do like a great climbing picture or video and now that I am part of the La Sportiva team, I may have more incentive to make a splash here and there.
This past summer you kept going back to The Cobra Crack. How has it been climbing that thing and has the process been difficult?
The Cobra is going well, I hope to complete the challenge this summer, lots of blisters and refining of beta but it’s been fun climbing with Jeremy Smith and Logan Barber on the climb. A few close sends but no cigar yet…I hope this spring is dry!
You have done some training in the past at the Grand Wall Bouldering Co-op, including setting the crux for The bull on the co-op walls. What do you do in the off season to keep it all going?
Hanging out in Squamish. Photo courtesy of Ben Harnden ©
Long live the Grand Wall Bouldering Co-op! What a great place to train. I give credit to many of my hardiest climbs from climbing and training at the Co-op in Squamish. And, of course there is ski touring. We are so lucky to live under the Coastal Mountains.
How do balance out climbing and the rest of life with all the things you do?
I stand on my head, and like to bike around town, that seems to help keep the blood moving.
Bentoven. Photo courteys of Pony and Rider ©
Rumour has it there are a few stencils of your face around Squamish town. You know anything about that?
Blame that on a Welsh Artist. Mary Mary quite contrary! I live in the middle of a productive art scene which may have some thing to do with the fresh air. Lan Yao my partner is also an active psychedelic landscapes painter and you can check her art out here – http://www.artbylanyao.com
Lan Yao original. Photo courtesy of Lan Yao ©
Finally, what is on the horizon for the summer, any goals or things you want to do?
Climb as much as I can and a little work and gardening! I would like to get in to the alpine and do some multi-pitches on the Stawamus Chief. The summer goes so fast. I hope to finish off a few projects and move on to some new ones.
Ben getting groovy on the slopes. Photo courtesy of Ben Harnden ©
Thanks Ben for taking the time to chat with us. Keep up the good fight and congratulations on Family Man!
Ben Harden is sponsored by La Sportiva.
