Over the past few weeks, pictures of an open project have been emerging on social media. The location featured is Copper Cove, a relatively unknown climbing area in West Vancouver, about five minutes from the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal. Originally found and established by Robin Barley, Copper Cove has gone through a number of developmental spurts, being forgotten and re-discovered numerous times in its history. The most recent developer of the area is Salvador Olson. Salvador has added a number of routes, as well as retrofitted a few classics. We thought it would be best to check in with him to see what the deal is on the open project and other things. Here is what he had to say.
Copper Cove. Photo courtesy of Salvador Olson ©
Hi Salvador, thanks for taking the time to talk to us. So, you have been a part of the recent development in Copper Cove. Can you tell us a bit about the place?
Copper cove is a beautiful place located five minutes from the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal. The west facing granite walls offer us terrific climbing and stunning views. There are around 26 routes (a few mixed but mostly sport) between 15 to 30m high, with more to come.
I understand the area was developed a number of years ago.
It was first discovered and developed by Robin Barley in 1997.
Robin Barley and Salvador Olson. Photo courtesy of Salvador Olson ©
When did you start developing at the crag?
A friend of mine brought me here and I instantly fell in love with this place. It’s one of the best crags I have ever been to. Climbing, swimming, sunsets, and even whale watching, this place has it all. I decided to bring the area back to life so I started brushing, replacing bolts, and adding new anchors as a “give back” to the climbing community.
Any of the new routes stick out as classics?
I started last year bolting my first route Aquaman (12b) in the Arid Zawn area with the help of Alex Geller. Then, I decided to clean other routes starting with an old classic The Blackest of Faces (10b) (two pitches or linked). Which, with permission from Robin, I placed bolts and added new anchors, so it’s now fully sport – at the Tidal Zawn.
Shaina Thompson on The Blackest of Faces. Photo courtesy of Salvador Olson ©
I also bolted a new and beautiful line that I named “contortionist 10d/11a”. It’s basically a tiered roof battle, very crimpy and pumpy, and not an easy onsight. This one has become very popular at the meet-up we hold every Friday until sunset (I could see it becoming a classic). There’s also “la chimenea de mi abuela 10b” (my grandma’s chimney) just climb straight up into a wide flare it shares the first bolt of suspended block face and the anchor of contortionist. “derectile dysfunction 10c/d” (this brilliant name was the idea of my buddy Curt Carter) this one starts using the first bolt of blackest of faces, then traverse left underneath the second roof of contortionist and join this one on the third bolt.
Edgar Bullon working out the moves of the first crux move on the Contortionist. Photo courtesy of Salvador Olson
Jamie Finlayson did the first ascent of my routes but there’s not yet been a female ascent of them, with the exception of La Chimenea De La Abuela, climbed by Mariana Cairati.
How do people get there and where can they get a topo?
If you want to go, google ‘copper cove Rd.’ and that is where the cliff is located. Topo can be found in the pictures below (new routes not included).
One of the difficulties of Copper Cove is access. Can you tell us a bit about the problem and what would be best practice for such an area?
Access is subject to the tide levels so always check the tide schedule beforehand (waterlevels.gc.ca). When the tides are going out, you’re pretty safe. When the tides coming in try avoid getting stuck with anything +3m, or enjoy the log-hopping adventure! (which builds character and can actually be quite fun).
Parking can also be a bit tricky because there is only a certain amount of spots near the beach access and it is a residential area. Please be very respectful with the friendly and accommodating neighbours of this area. It is best to use the parking lot as a place to just pack up and go. If the parking here is full, you will have to park on Marine Dr.
Rumour has it you have bolted an open project. Can you tell us a bit about it?
Yes, the open project was bolted by Joseph Wong and guessed to be around 5.13c. It is like looking at dream catcher but traversing to the left super crimpy with really hard to stick slopers at the crux. I call it Crimp Catcher. Will be nice to see strong climbers around trying this amazing route and hopefully someone will send it soon! Madrock Canada has been nice enough to donate any bolt replacements at the crag in the future.
Tim Emmett and Tucker Webb on the Open Project. Photo courtesy of Salvador Olson ©
Well, thanks for filling us in and good luck with development!
