A few months back, we heard that Steve Townsend had a goal this past summer to complete all the 5.13’s in Squamish. For those who don’t know Steve Townsend, he is one of those climbers who throws everything he’s got at a goal, climbing or otherwise. Knowing Steve and his work ethic, we knew this was very possible. Although not exactly what Steve set out to do, we thought it best to check in with Steve about his progress and his plans for this year.
Here is what he had to say.
Steve Townsend doing what he loves. Photo courtesy of Steve Townsend ©
Hey Steve, thanks for chatting with us! To give our readers some background, when did you start climbing and how long have you been climbing?
I started climbing in 1996 when I was 15… I don’t want to think about how long ago that was? I’m getting old! (20 years in December!)
Last summer, you had a goal to finish all the 5.13 sport routes in Squamish. How far did you get?
Well, my goal is actually to do ALL the routes 5.13a and above in Squamish (and near-by areas), not just sport and not just 5.13’s. I made a dent in the list last summer, but still have more to go. I think there are 137 routes on my list (103 sport routes, and 34 trad). I’ve got 58 to go (29 sport and 29 trad). So yeah, I guess my focus has been more on Sport for sure, but that’s partly because my trad rack got stolen at the start of last summer and I didn’t have the money to replace it. And I also worked 80+ hours/week and so sport routes were just easier to work (most of the time rope-soloing after work, an hour before dark because I couldn’t find partners that late in the day).
Did any particular route that you completed stand out as the best?
Last year I think the one that stands out the most is Nothing in Moderation at the Quercus Wall (at Murrin Park above Pet). I got the 2nd ascent after WAY too much work! I spoke to a bunch of strong guys who’d tried it and they all thought it was 14a (not 13d like Sonnie graded it). Then, when I was working it, I broke a hold at the top and I fell off because of that broken hold for 15 days!!! It got WAAAY harder with the broken hold so I thought it was justified to up-grade it to 14a. I did some 14a’s right after I sent it and they felt like a joke by comparison. That thing took a LOT of effort!
Also, I really liked Lost Highway on Pet Wall. It had one of the smallest holds I’ve ever grabbed on it.
on my WHOLE list.
Steve on Force 10. Photo by Jamie Finlayson ©
Which route had the most interesting crux or most bouldery crux?
Battle of Evermore is really cool and super unique. There are no holds for the first half of the route, you just go from knee-bar to knee-bar until you’re 40 feet out a roof, then you do a V11. I also started working on Sugar Daddy at Nightmare rock last month (March 2015), I got the crux all sorted out, but then it started raining and I moved away (3 days ago). So looks like that one is on “hold” for a while. But I’d say that feels like one of the hardest cruxes on any route. Oh and then there’s Jamie Finlayson’s new route Working Man (5.14b) in the boulders… man that thing is HARD! I think it took Jamie over a year to figure out the crux! I can see why! It feels insane! (another one to come back to!)
Steve Townsend on the Battle of Evermore. Photo by Mike Chap Chapman ©
You didn’t finish all of them. Which one’s are left?
There’s 59 routes left on my list but if/when I move back full-time, the ones that are top-priority are:
Sugar Daddy 5.14a
The Bull 5.14a
Gun Slinger 5.13d
Cobra Crack 5.14 trad
The Titan 5.13c (across Squamish River, biggest Granite Cave in Canada! 100 foot roof!)
And then I would really like to work on Dream Catcher, but I have to live there for that. I spent 50% of my training/climbing last winter only campusing so I felt ready to try, but then I got a job in Alberta so it’s on hold for a couple years now.
Can you tell us a bit about this route across the river?
That’s Matt Maddaloni’s route, it’s called The Titan and is 5.13c, half bolts, half gear but it climbs like a sport route. I went to it with Ethan Pringle last summer and tried, and we made good progress and I thought I’d do it quick, but I couldn’t find a partner (I begged about 50 people to go with me for 3 weeks and eventually gave up because coordinating getting a boat, and the weather, and somebody else’s schedule with my schedule when I only had 1 day a week off work to try… it was too much logistics and it didn’t happen). I has sport climbing and trad climbing techniques (arm-bars, knee bars, hand jams, slopers). It’s one of the most unique routes in Squamish. And still no 2nd ascent.
You planned to finish up this year but plans have changed. What is next for you?
Last November I finished work (seasonally flying Tours and Charters out of the Squamish Airport) and I spent 3 months studying and writing a bunch of exams and doing flight tests to up-grade my flying resume. Then I spent over a month looking at different work options to advance my [aviation/pilot] career. 2 weeks ago I got an offer for a job in Edmonton, and I accepted it. 3 days ago I just moved to Alberta and tomorrow I start Flight Training here (2 weeks training, then I’ll be flying). The job is Flying a King Air 200 (type of plane) for Medevac – Air Ambulance all over Alberta. I had to sign a 1 year contract so I can’t leave before a year, but I don’t expect that I will leave before 2 or 3 years (or more). BC will always be my “home” but I am taking a little break. It’s only a 3-4 hour drive to the Rockies!!! Overhung Limestone and lots more 5.14’s!!! so psyched!!
Steve and Dan getting vertical. Photo courtesy of Steve Townsend ©
Being a pilot, you have to move to where the jobs are. Is that a burden on you?
Not a burden, just a reality. I love flying, and I finally decided to buckle down and work HARD at it, because in the long run, working hard now means playing hard later. Eventually I will get a job in a place I want to live (probably BC?) and I’ll get free flights and lots of time off. Everybody always says they want to be like Adam Ondra, but I don’t want to be like him. My hero (who I want to be like) is Peter Winter!!! That guys a bad-ass (prolific climber / First Ascentionist and Air Canada pilot!)
You often go away and then come back and get back in shape very quickly. What is your secret?
Your diet makes more difference to your climbing than any amount of training. I get back in shape after long breaks because I eat really well. I’m Vegan and I think that has helped me climb at my best. I eat a whole-foods plant-based diet, no processed foods or refined sugars and I don’t drink Alcohol (that has nothing to do with “training” or depriving myself, I just don’t like alcohol. It is really gross for me. If I liked it, I’d drink it).
As for training, I don’t do any. I just climb. That is my “training”. I have a new passion for campusing, but not on the campus board, I just like campusing boulder problems because it’s always new and different and fun!
Steve on Greed on Ton Sai Beach. Photo courtesy of Steve Townsend ©
Rumour has it you have never been bouldering in the forest. What do you love the best about rope climbing?
Hey! I have bouldered in Squamish… in 13 yeaers I think I’ve gone bouldering about 4 or 5 times! But I don’t know the names of any of them. I just find the challenge of climbing on a rope more appealing. Plus, I am scared to boulder; every time you fall, you hit the ground!!! No thanks!! I’ll take an 80 footer and stop 5 feet off the deck any day over a 5 foot fall ONTO THE GROUND!!! Ouch!!! Plus, you can do just as hard moves on a rope!!! (examples: The Silent Menace since the hold broke, it’s V13 now. Or Working Man 5.14b/V12, or Down System 5.14a/V11, or Sugar Daddy 5.14a/HARD V11 crux, or Straight Outta Squampton 5.13d/V10).
All the hardest moves I’ve done have been the cruxes of the hardest routes I’ve done (or I’ve tried). I’ve done loads of V11’s and V12’s on a rope all over the place.
Steve, Tim, Jeremy, and ?? making a group effort on Year of the Snake. Photo by Mike Chapman ©
Top five must do routes between 13a and 13c in Squamish?
1. Creep Show 5.13c on the Cacademeon Boulder (skipping the only chipped hold which is right off the ground and not necessary). This is the most under appreciated 5-star route in Squamish! The quality is 10x better than Permanent Waves (which is a one-move-wonder on a chipped hold at the top and not a good route at all), yet people always rave about how great Permanent Waves is?! Creep Show is so much cooler! (and stiff for the grade but that’s good because Squamish routes should be hard!)
2. Lost Highway 5.13c at Pet Wall. Again, totally under-climbed, 5-star, technical nightmare (bring some good shoes)!
3. Bogans and Vegans 13a/b (i just did the FA of this thing a month ago. maybe the best low-end 13a in Squamish). It’s at an unknown crag in Squamish Valley. e-mail me if you want specific beta.
4. Sixty-Nine 5.13b/c gear route at Murrin Park. This is an oldy but a goody! it’s such a classic line. Only draw-back is the noise of traffic since it’s so close to the Highway.
5. Primary Perception 5.13c in the Smoke Bluffs. Really cool arete climb put up by Andrew Boyd. Andrew is such a master at using non-existent micro dimples as “holds” on granite (for both hands and feet). Bring new shoes and thick skin!
and one extra:
6. Presto at Nightmare Rock (Murrin Park). That thing is classic (again, the noise of the hwy sucks but the climbing is great!)
7. Fitness World 5.13c (sorry… it’s hard to pick only 5… there are so many good ones). This thing is so classic, and if you go to do it, also do Serendipity 5.12d at the same crag… super cool line too.
Thanks for chatting with us Steve. I am sure you have given people a lot to chew on this summer! Good luck with the new job!
Lowering off in winter conditions at Horne Lake. Photo courtesy of Steve Townsend ©
