Calling the route “Missing & Presumed Drowned” for its reference to Alcatraz escapees and the experience of leading the upper sections. The route is characterized by some superb 5.9 and 10- climbing on good rock with excellent protection. While all hard moves are well protected, serious climbing exists in sections of loose and hard to protect mid fifth between the cruxes. The route is generally easy to follow but some variability may be found especially towards the top.
To start: approach as for Apocalypse Cave sport climbing. It is recommended to rack up and drop bags at the trail that branches to Alcatraz as this is where you will return on descent. Continue up the drainage as for Apocalypse until the drainages split, take the left (northward) drainage up towards the wall above Alcatraz. Take steep scree up and left to reach the base of the wall walking rightwards until you reach the obvious first pitch. If you keep going past here you will eventually reach the After Thought sport climbing area.
P1: (45m, 10b) climb a right leaning ramp to a large left facing corner. Stem / jam the excellent but short overhanging finger crack until just below the roof. Mantle up and right on steep but positive holds. Continue up and left on good water worn grey rock ferreting out what gear you can aiming for trees on a big ledge. Belay off your pick of trees.
P1a: walk the belay up to an obvious cave at the base of the wall above. Belay the next pitch from this cave.
P2: (40m, 10a) Either climb a right trending ramp above the cave or a shallow left facing corner to an obvious V slot. Jam and layback over this v slot with good pro. Step right at the top and wander up slabs and ledges to belay off a tree more or less directly above the cave.
P3: (50m, 5.9) Climb corners and slabs up and right towards towards the ridge crest and a dead horizontal tree on a large flat ledge. From the ledge head up and right aiming for a shallow left facing corner. Climb the corner with good pro and mantle ontop of this detached feature. Head straight up on good grey stipple rock towards a large yellow roof / cave to belay. A very careful touch is required on this pitch to not assault the exposed belay below with loose rock.
P4: (45m, 5.9) step out right from the cave belay and head up and left crossing a few corners on mostly good grey rock to reach a short corner with some rat shit. Steep climbing with good pro heads up the corner. From its top continue up to reach a ledge with trees. Belay off trees or build an anchor in the short wall at this ledge.
Gear: cams micro – fists with doubles in fingers and hand sizes. A selection of pegs, KBs and LA’s most useful. (We left no fixed gear)
