We are pleased to announce that Stu Smith has recently completed a seven year project (off and on!) on the Manitou Wall. The new route, Trad Climbing Goof, is an eight pitch route up the Manitou wall in which four of the pitches clock in at 5.13!
P1: 5.10 50m bolts, gear tips-tighthands
Easy climbing up to dirt ledge continues up into finger crack, balancy crux above thin gear as the crack seams out followed by easy climbing up then right to nice belay stance. (Bolted on lead, a couple stubs could have been deeper but all’s good)
P2: 5.12 20m+ sport
Just left of the belay climb up following bolts which lead right along and balancy section to a thin boulder problem to gain lay back flake. Follow flake to its end and belay.
P3: 5.13 25m sport
Climb up then left gaining traversing dyke with difficulty and few moderate moves lead to a technical balancy crux and a rest followed by two more crux’s with a sport climbing feel, great rock.
P4: 5.13 20m sport + yellow Camelot
Climb the sharp technical arete tightly bolted to prevent falling around other side and cutting rope. At its end place a high small hands piece then a nice bit of sporty traversing right to ledge and belay.
P5: 5.11-12 15-20m sport
Climb up flakes to gain ledge walk left and climb up gaining large horizontal fault and belay.
P6: 5.13 sport
Up to right arching micro corner then right and up along crimps to a tough deadpoint or dyno to jug finish up and right.
P7: 5.13 mixed. Bolts gear tips-hands
Up sealed corner to squeeze chimney/flare.
P8: 5.11/12 up rounded arête to laser cut finger crack topping out to bolted belay.
Decent:
Could be rapped with two ropes, likely with difficulty. Best to finish up ‘The prow wall’
