The Scarpa Instinct line has long been the flagship of Scarpa’s high performance shoe line, with many climbers refusing to let go of their Scarpa Instinct VR even when they sleep!
With the 2018 redesign of the Instinct lace-up and the 2019 of the Instinct SR, the line has come full circle, providing beginner and advanced climbers a number of options when it comes to the proverbial ‘lacing up’ while still offering true precision and power to any climbing experience.
Hands down, the Scarpa Instinct SR is the most powerful slipper on the market. We had a chance to test the new 2019 Scarpa Instinct SR for a three month period and here is what we thought.
2019 Scarpa Instinct SR Climbing Shoe
First off, the design of the Scarpa Instinct SR is impressive. Out of the box, this shoe is a marvel to look at, with its slick lines highlighted by orange and blue. The quality of the build feels strong and the stitching precise. Designed for training and bouldering, the 2019 Scarpa Instinct SR improved its heel cup for a better fit, extended its rubber coverage on the upper toe of the shoe and increased its sensitivity and precision in the toe box. It features 3.5mm Vibram® XS Grip2 with a synthetic upper on a slightly asymmetrical downturned last with a slipper closure system.
During our testing, the Scarpa Instinct SR proved to be a very comfortable shoe that required almost no break in time to feel good. Compared to its Instinct VR and Lace-up counterparts, this shoe is a dream! Right out of the box, we were able to wear this shoe for a full gym session despite a tight fit. The shoe felt comfortable for the duration of our gym session and we noted no hotspots around the toes or side of the heels. During our initial wear, we did find some strain on the outer muscles of our foot at the end of the session. However, after continued use this strain dissipated and we didn’t notice it at all.
The toe box of the Scarpa Instinct SR held a decent amount of power for both indoor climbing and bouldering outside. The strength of the toe box was situated more on the tip of the toe box rather than slightly towards the inner edge of the toe that is associated with the Booster S or Furia S.
Compared to other Instinct models, the Instinct SR provided the most sensitivity in the toe box of any other shoe in the line up. During our testing, this shoe was able to handle overhanging terrain and slightly overhanging terrain very well but did not perform as well as we hoped on vertical and off vertical terrain.
Despite a decent amount of power in the toe, we found that the the toe box of the Instinct SR was not as powerful as other high performance shoes in the Scarpa line up. Simply put, we found that other shoes with a stronger closure system were able to create more power both indoors and on real rock. Based on our field test , we concluded that although the Instinct SR holds more power in the toe box than any slipper on the market, it’s power is somewhat compromised by its closure system which becomes a trade off between comfort and performance.
With a redesigned heel cup, the Scarpa Instinct SR heel system felt secure on a variety of heel hooks that required pulling and precision. During our testing of the shoe, we found that the heel was great for moderate heel hooking in the gym and performed relatively well during technical heel hooking or heel hooking that requires pulling down on the very back of the heel. The fit of the heel hook was very good, with no air pockets in the side or the bottom of the heel. Despite a strong performance, it was hard not to think that the heel was going to pop off when performing heel hooks that were demanding in nature. Similar to that of the toe box, we found that the heel of the Scarpa Instinct was amazing for a slipper closure system but did not compare to the power and security of a heel cup backed up by velcro strap or laces.
Overall, The Scarpa Instinct SR is a great shoe for training indoors and an exception shoe for a slipper. The toe box of the Instinct SR has enough power in the toe box to focus on the smallest of indoor holds and heel cup of this shoe was able to perform well during moderate heel hooking. The shoe was comfortable right out of the box and easy to slip on and off during any session. Despite a strong performance, the Scarpa Instinct SR was unable to outperform other shoes in the Instinct line up with different closure systems when it came to performance and security. Therefore, those using these shoes for outdoor bouldering or indoor climbing will ultimately be trading some power and precision for more comfort and convenience. After our three month testing period, we would recommend the Scarpa Instinct SR to any beginner to advanced climber who is looking for a comfortable slipper with a decent amount of power and precision that will serve them well as they train indoors.
MSRP: $175.00 USD
The Scarpa Instinct SR can be special ordered at Climb On Equipment in Squamish, BC
