Twenty-five years ago, the climbing community in Edmonton, AB started something big when the Alpine Club of Canada pitched in to purchase a fifty foot wall in the corner of the Universiade Pavilion (otherwise known as the Butterdome) at the University of Alberta. This month, the climbing community at the university, with all it’s skills and gusto, moved into their new multi-million dollar facility. An amazing new space containing all the memories from the past 25 years. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Lloyd King and Dallas Mix, two climbers who are currently involved with the climbing centre in its brand new location at the Physical Activity and Wellness Centre (PAW).
New lead wall at the University of Alberta. Photo courtesy of Nick Croken ©
Good morning fellas, so today is re-opening day for the climbing centre at the U of A. Can you tell us a bit about the change?
Dallas: The last two months have really been incredible. From Nov 30, when we had the send off for the old wall, until now, we have stripped the old complex and set up our brand new one. We went from a little corner in the Butterdome to having our own brand new built-for-climbing complex. I’m still blown away sometimes at how blessed we are to be in this space.
Lloyd: The most significant component of change would definitely be the modern and purpose built building which was designated specifically for our new climbing centre. It was part of a larger project, the PAW which stands for Physical Activity and Wellness. This includes a campus fitness centre alongside our new climbing centre. It was built to Green Globe standards, and is a four-globe rating, which is the equivalent to LEED Gold. There are many sustainable features included in the design such as the use of natural light, an important feature in a northern climate; triple-pane energy efficient windows; and natural, recycled and low-emitting materials for building finishes. In addition, the building will also be the home to a pilot project for solar photovoltaic panels. Many of us are quite proud.
How has the process been in this endeavour?
Lloyd: It has been a very long process but once the doors opened earlier this week it became quite apparent why these gargantuan projects are such an undertaking and worthwhile. The positive response we have been witnessing to such an modern and incredible climbing centre has been absolutely tremendous. The students, public users and the community have not stopped chalking up to fill their desire to get off the ground and climb since we opened earlier this week. It has bee so much more rewarding than even possibly imagined five plus years ago when I personally starting considering (dare I say it!) there may be a career opportunity in climbing.
Dallas: As we were getting ready for this centre, we were putting in like 70 hour weeks and were really focused on our goal. Now, anyone who has called the university wall home for as long as I have been climbing here really dreads two times during the year that the Craft Sale rolls in and books off the whole Butterdome for a week. It just so happened that the Craft Sale was setting up as we were dismantling the old wall. One of the head crafters came over and informed us we would have to leave because it was suppertime and that is when they were done for the day. I descended from the wall from which I was taking 20 year old holds off of and put on my suave (and always-successful) charm and went to buy us some more time. Needless to say, it was painfully poetic getting kicked out of the old wall one last time because of the craft sale.
The new bouldering facility at PAW. Photo courtesy of Nick Croken ©
What is the most significant change for the climbing wall itself?
Dallas: We have bathrooms in the building! Before, a poorly timed pee would mean a ten-minute trip right in the middle of your session. Now that isn’t the most significant change, but we are having much less bladder related accidents now, which is nice. We are also following suite with many new gyms -like Sender One- and are forgoing tape and colour coordinating our holds. It is amazing. Everything looks slick and you are never unsure if the problem you are climbing got harder or if a piece of tape simply fell off. Lastly, and probably most significant, is our push towards lead climbing. We have taken 50% of the routes and dedicated them to lead. I remember conversations in November, looking at the walls, measuring out swing distance, and talking about lead climbing. Back then we said, lets put the challenge out there, lets raise the caliber of roped climbing in Edmonton. If people don’t step up we can always make alterations. I thought it would take a couple months to get a significant number of people on the lead walls but the climbing community of Edmonton proved me wrong and stepped up their game big time. We have done more lead tests in the last two weeks then we did the entire year prior.
So you guys have been busy the past few weeks with the new opening. How are people responding?
Dallas: The response has been crazy overwhelming. We have had to up the amount of hours for staffing because we simply couldn’t handle the volume of people coming through the doors. Of course right now it is new and shiny and new years resolutions are funneling people towards places like this, but almost everyone I talk to is responding very positively. Of course there are some naysayers, but if I have learned anything working as a route setter it is that climbers love to complain, so honestly I was expecting more along those lines. Yes, It has been very positive in the gym for the last two weeks.
To give a little background to our readers, How long has the university had a climbing wall?
Lloyd: Lets begin with the year 1987 (arguably) the very first commercial climbing gym in North America was on the books then and it was in Seattle. Now, most climbers are not aware how long indoor climbing has actual been around. Two short years later, it is 1989 and the University of Alberta along side the Alpine Club of Canada erects a towering fifty foot vertical to gently over hanging artificial climbing structure designed and installed by Entreprise. This structure has definitely not only stood the test of time (25years) but has been a very important stepping stone (if you will) for introducing climbers to their first moves off the ground.
Dallas: The first wall to go up was the old EP (Entre-Prises) wall. It seems fitting that 25 years later EP won the bid to put up our new walls.
Photo courtesy of Nick Croken ©
Do you think the wall has increased the universities climbing population?
Dallas: With out a doubt. The other day I said “Lloyd, there are more people leading right now then ever could climb on a rope in the old gym at one time.” On top of that, we had a full bouldering lounge as well as our top ropes being utilized. I would venture to guess that we are consistently facilitating climbing for three times what we did at the old wall.
Sounds like you guys are making it happen! So are you guys running the show these days?
Dallas: Yes. Running the show, herding cats, you can call it what you will. I mostly just print off laminated signs to steer people towards prolonging the longevity of our new centre. For real though, we have a great team right now at the gym.
Lloyd: Running the show would be stretch but, we are certainly excited to be in a position to be handed one of many torches and stoke it to a new level. As we are essentially stewards / ambassadors for the lifestyle, activity, and sport which we all have a deep invested passion for.
What does the future of the wall look like?
Dallas: The wall is going to continue evolving and changing, I see it continuing to thrive and grow; the thing I have always appreciated about our wall is the community. It is a really positive community with regular climbers as well as students and people who work around the University. This is not going to change, if anything we are just a bigger part of the university now.
Any advice for those pushing to get their own institutions to build a wall?
Dallas: Find a generous anonymous donor? Or be rich. Either could work. We chose to go with the prior, but that route isn’t for everyone.
Loyd: Strength in numbers and passion has to be at the heart of it all. Be collaborative, open minded, respectful and most important, be a team player.
Thanks guys for your time. I hope that everything goes well over the next few months and you get a few more staff members to share the workload! Thanks again for your time. The wall looks awesome and inspirational to all those who are trying to build a wall in their own climbing communities. If you are looking for information about the PAW Centre and the climbing wall, please visit their facebook page here.
Special thanks to Dallas Mix for helping us with the intro of this article and to Nick Croken for the beautiful photos.
The Physical Activity and Wellness Centre in its nighttime glory. Photo courtesy of Lloyd King ©
